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Like said it's been a reccent topic of conversation between the wife and myself and we have actually done a survey when driving recently. It came up because on the Supra forum people whinge incessantly about the wind buffet when driving the Supra around with the drivers window down. You can buy a simple stick on device to eliminate it but I don't need one because I never drive with the windows down so I kind of got interested in how many people do and it went from there. The sunroof and rag top thing I've had for 30 years or more though.

Ha ha My CR 125 motocrosser was the same... Nothing and I mean nothing below 7500 then all 20 horsepower at once thru to 10,500 ... Doesn't sound like much but it only weighed 80 kilos and I would've been 10 stone wringing wet back then too. Loved it! Geez I would've loved to have had a go on a TZ back in the day as no way in Hades I'd fit on one now!

Oh, scratch that. @Lucky Phil posted your solution in that thread . . .

I was allowed to ride a TZ 350 one time. Proper race bike, with slicks and all. No idle, started working at 6,000 rpm, went mad at 8,000, tailed off above 10,000, and just managed to get to 12,000 without any additional gain. Loads of fun, but that was on a track. On the road, it would have been a pain, if not to say completely useless.

While Fortnine did a great job of explaining the fundamentals, the specifics and nuances are very complex. Headpipe diameter and length are the primary indicator of RPM range, but inlet and outlet cone length, end diameters, length between- all affect peak power, power spread, whether there's a smooth transition into and out of the powerband or a razor-thin line between 'on the pipe' and 'off'. When I raced flat track, every 2-stroke racer who had the skill to tell the difference and the means to acquire them had 3-4 different pipes to choose from depending on track length and condition. It's almost like it's rocket science or something.

Maybe better to install dropped footpegs?

Dunno if that's an Aus thing, rarely see anyone do that here- other than the poseurs cruising their pinky rings.

Well then, since it's free at least for basic I may have to give it a shot. Probably not reasonable to ask for something specifically tailored to my whims.

Did that on the Quota... the shift lever height was better, but it kept coming out from the gear lever.... Now that I have installed a rubber insert in the foot peg, it is a better fit...

This is exactly why they video is educating; because those expansion chambers should be designed to fit a very specific type of engine, targeting a narrow rpm band. I purchased mine from the manufacturer of my engine, and it was supposedly tuned to that engine type. However, nothing was specified on what rpm range it was designed to work best. All the guys from my moto club installed those chambers on their bikes, and it now occurs to me, the only certainty was the unbearable noise produced. As to the increased power, no idea....

I will never comprehend how these pipes on M-X bikes did what they did in the 70s & up. For those that are old enuf. There were a multitude of pipes , silencers , etc. and they were sold throughout Dirt Bike , MXA and every motorcycle magazine published.

The whatever-kinda-goo that gets up in the frame has to go somewhere , so the crankcase is best option. If you have ever owned a Ducati single you know what their after the fact breather system looked like .

I got my parts from Midwest Control Products in Bushnell , Il. . www.midwestcontroproductsl.com TR6-150 threaded rod. DNTFL-6 rod end , DMCS-6 ball joint , DNTFL-6 ball joint , DMCSL-6 ball joint. I will never understand why they installed two r.h. thread rod ends on an adjustable rod. I di turn this quite a long time before I realized I was going nowhere ! Hmmm IDK why I went crazy on the rod ends but I got all of them and picked the ones I liked. On the threaded rod , just get two and cut the first one the same length as the original , reassemble and adjust to suit you. You have the extra rod to work with ! This stuff is inexpensive and top quality. You will not regret doing this. This was from Aug/2011 so I hope these part #s are good. These people manufacture high performance things so this is not a hokey-pokey place. Good luck

Well , you need to purchase a l.h.thread ball end and a threaded rod w/l.h. &r.h. thread and go to work. I will try to find some part #s. This is the best way to fix this so you can trim this height to suit you .

There are a couple options by changing the shift mechanism. You can lengthen the connecting rod or rotate the pawl arm on the gearbox one tooth clockwise (which will likely necessitate changing the rod length to keep the arms parallel). This may require some 'fettling" to make both you and the gearbox happy . . .

Hi, I got some new boots and the toe is thicker than my old pair, so its a bit of a strain to shift up. I'd like to raise the shift pedal upwards a bit but didn't see anything in the manual on how to accomplish this. Did not want to start mucking around with the shifter till I asked here. Thanks in advance for any advice. Mike

Well not really because they even drive around with the window down on days that don't require A/C and in very late model cars. If they were all driving old beaters I may take your point. Phil

I'm a bit loath to say it mate, but that is more or less exactly what Resolve is. I'm not even sure there are all that many other products out there. To be honest, I don't do very much editing at all. Even so, my experience is, "simple" products are generally crap. To get good results, you need a good product. The trick is to concentrate on the features you want to use, learn them, and ignore the rest.

EEEeeeeyeah... No That's exactly the sort of thing I *don't* want. Though obviously it's the bee's knees for 'professionals' it's WAY to competent and thus overcomplicated for me. Not to mention that my 'friendly use' computer is a 15 year old Alienware R2 running Win7. Dammit I'm a mechanic, Jim, not a Doctor. I'm imagining something that looks like an upper and lower screen; the upper with a video and slider, the lower with audio and a slider. Drag and drop one onto the other. Of course there needs to be easy-to-use sectioning tools for both, to create multiple clips and then reassemble them into a single combined product. It's probably out there, but I'm not motivated to download and test and reject a bunch of software suites to find one that is easy to use and adequately competent.

The point with the external mic is the critical one. The audio recording quality on a GoPro is fine (we've got two of them at work too...), as is the quality on a Zoom recorder and co. . The point is collecting good audio to record. The short answer to that: use good mics and do it right. The GoPros we have are these, I think https://gopro.com/en/us/shop/cameras/hero10-black/CHDHX-101-master.html further equipped with these https://gopro.com/en/us/shop/mounts-accessories/camera-media-mod/ADFMD-001.html The media mod does have an audio input. It is only a 3.5mm mini jack, but better than nothing. PS: that is not to be construed as a recommendation for GoPro. I've barely used the things. It's just an indication of what is possible. If GoPro have something like that, I dare say competitiors will too.

Although I (still) don't know how to use this, I'll throw it into the ring. We have it at work, and the colleague that uses it most seems to like it. Another colleague, only been there 2 years or so, did a Masters in Documentary Film Production. I gather she learned to use it whilst at Uni, so it's not just us using it. There is a free version, but I don't know what the difference between the free and the sold version is. Even so, the sold version apparently only costs about $300,-. Have a look at it. Maybe it is a solution. https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve The blurb: One thing: the computer needs a bit of power, or it will be really, really slow. PS: I gather that the software is cheap because Davinci earns its money on cameras and such, and things like specialised controllers for the program. The want people using the software to keep them in the "ecosystem", so it is fairly cheap for the small-time user.

Book it up to environmental protection. The air that comes out of the crankcase is heavy with oil vapour. It's better for the environment if the re-condensed oil goes back into the motor.

@audiomickI'm very clear on why the pressure needs to be handled, just don't understand why a line that is connected directly to the sump has to be part of it. My older Ducatis just had a black rubber hose that came from the top of the crankcase and was strapped to the frame under the seat. Maybe that system is ancient now, but it worked very simply. Why the oil line is part of this system now is what I question. I'll stop beating a dead horse.

It would be a bit pointless if it were a closed system. It is there to compensate for the change in volume in the crankcase as the pistons go up and down. This change in volume is not all that far short of the displacement of the engine. A closed system would increase the total crankcase volume, thereby reducing the relative change in volume, but would not be able to compensate for the change. For that, air has to be able to escape on the downstroke, and get back in on the upstroke.

those are correct, but I have plates and pins in the mail that should be the correct ones. We'll see.