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I was hasty and mis-spoke on HMB's new name. Yes, that is the lever! I like the elegance of the design and adjustable toe tab. I can vouch for its durability as mine * got bent * and I put it in the vice and bent it back. We all know the Guzzi part just snaps off.

These days it's HMB-Moto, since that wave of lawyer's letters from the Piaggio lawyer about using the name "Guzzi". Is this the lever? https://hmb-moto.de/Bremshebel-Fuss-V11-CNC

I replaced mine with an unbreakable one from HMB-Guzzi.

Unless there is some unresolved uncertainty regarding it. Better safe than sorry.

Or even a single bad part in a good batch.

On a closed circuit, of course. None of us would ever do that on a public B road, would we?

Had little tip over, looking for a rear brake lever 2002 Lemans

I just returned from about 25 miles. All seems well, voltage going up and down dependent on rpm, just as it should. The V11 power never grows old. After riding my other bikes(V7, GL500, ZG1000) the last couple of months while this was being worked on, this V11 seems like a beast, so much more fun to twist the throttle. I breached the ton a few times today!

yes @docc, this is the case. However, I was going to disconnect the red/green altogether as I've now run a direct wire from the positive battery to the RR. However, when I did this, no electricity at the key. So I expect the red/green powers something else essential. I did look at the schematic, but my eyes went goofy navigating the lines and colors.

I don't have my diagrams in front of me, but I would say "no." The fuel/ignition harness is entirely separate from the start-charge-lights harness. The red/green wire should be charging power into your circuit breaker and the other leg of the CB should go directly to battery positive. Is this the case?

This is what the media have said. Including official Michelin statements which have not been contradicted by Dorna either. Why wouldn't Michelin introduce the tire that solves the current pressure limitations? there is no rationale for not doing it. In any case, there is more suspense in trying to guess who will be the next pope than predicting who will win the world championship.... lol...

I have a little bit of experience with foundry, as it was part of my training at school. We did some casts, but with sand molds, not the modern techniques they now have. I believe those light alloy parts are pressure cast. Even if the entire process is run by computers, a bad batch can always happen.

Yes, I swapped to a CB, per Docc. As for less vs more resistance. Less is now what the OEM line has due to the added resistance the new line. Make sense? the OEM red/green wire also powers …fuel relay?

Thanks again chaps. Got the sump off. Oil filter removed (must've been fitted by an ape). Coincidentally, my service kit from Gutsibits arrived this morning. My son is karting this weekend so I'll park it there for now so we can get his stuff ready. Again, thanks for your help. Appreciated.

Time-Sert is the best thread repair brand on the planet. If you are afraid to try it , take it to a good shop or machine shop and get it fixed.

I am going to say your connection at the fuse holder has been the problem all along. The burnt leg of the fuse was an indicator of a poor connection . I wish you had mentioned this , it would have saved a lot of thinking. Did you install a CB into the existing wiring harness ? Is it made like Docc's CB ? Any time you have this burn from a poor connection the wire(s) have the same burn and the connection suffers and the resistance increases (not good) greatly. I can't wrap my head around this bike and factory regulator running this gauge of wire for the charging . If you were aware of electrical systems it would be like hooking up a gen-set to your house with a cheap 2 wire 110v extension cord. Your friend can add resistance if he wants to but you don't need to. Less resistance is what you're after.

I have not seen the newer fork models so I will leave that alone. Mine has the krinkle paint too .

It has an R on both forks. As I understand it, the version with compression in one leg and damping in the other was the 40 mm fork. Mine is the 43mm version, and rebound in both legs is correct for that. I don't see that as a problem, either. Lots of bikes only have rebound damping. If there is anything that remotely resembles a problem, it is only making sure that both legs are adjusted the same. I've thought about it, and come to the conclusion that if one were to want to alter the compression damping, using a different fork oil would be the way. Get the compression damping where you want it with that, and adjust the adjustable rebound damping to match. Haven't tried it, but it should work, I reckon. And I'm not at all concerned about the bike. The package seems to be, as mentioned in the quote further up, "the best of both worlds", apart from the shitty engine paint. I'm just curious.

Do both of your forks have R on them ? IT should have C on the l.h. fork and R on the other. My red frame and black frame have a (maybe) 20mm nut on the fork caps. my 2003 has an external fuel pump. DO NOT be too concerned about your bike. The only problem I see is maybe having two R forks on your bike ?

As far as I know, it only affects the specific models mentioned here: Your greenie should have the double-plate clutch, which doesn't cause any problems at all.

I posted I thread in a german forum posing the same question as here, and got these two replies today: Both posters are very well informed, so I'm assuming the comments are accurate. I've no idea if those "transition" Le Mans models made it out of Europe or not, but it seems that the combination is not unknown here, perhaps even normal for a 2002 model.

Yep, you're right, of course.

No, it doesn’t. Chances are some previous gnumb-gnuts removed it and then glued it back on with some form of gorilla snot. Make sure ALL the peripheral bolts are out and then use something to apply gradually increasing force on something, even if it is a screwdriver through the already buggered hole. Don’t try and shock it and don’t try to chisel it. If it’s really obstinate? Get the blowtorch out and heat around the flange of the sump, try and do it evenly, eventually it’ll part company but I don’t envy you the task of cleaning the mess of gorilla snot and gasket off the mating surfaces. When done though reinstall the new gasket either dry or a very thin smear of grease and you won’t have the issue again. For the stripped thread? I’d recommend a time-sert.

This answers the question I came to ask. 'Can I remove the sump with the filter still in situ?' My drain plug has been leaking and I suspected the threads has stripped. Sure enough, upon removing the drain plug some threads came with it. So, onto the bench it'll need to be whilst I figure it out. Only thing is, with all 14 bolts out the sump still won't budge. Hence me wondering if the filter needed to come out first.

Umm, don't you mean rebound Mick? Phil