Check Your Relay Bases

[Kiwi_Roy]

I have been plauged by an intermittent fault recently, the tacho would drop out and the battery loosing it's charge. I figured out that I was loosing the voltage from the headlight relay which also happens to be a reference for the Ducati regulator.

I found the 87 contact on R2 was not gripping the relay pin at all. It took me about 2 hours to tighten all contacts

Heres a sinple drawing showing how easy it is to remove the contacts from the base and re-tighten them.

I also advocate the appllication of some form of grease to protect the connection from corrosion. I use only Petroleum Jelly aka Vasilene myself.

Do 1 relay at a time so you don't forget where the wires go.

BTW my release tool is just a sliver of sheet metal whch I cut in the vice with a cold chisel. looks pretty rough but does the job. Even a thin nail will work to release the clip. Once you get the hang of it they pop right out. A pair of needle nose pliers makes the job even easier.

 

I would be interested to hear if anyone else finds loose connections i.e. no tension when slid onto a relay pin. In other words please test it for tension before squeezing.

Which Relay, Which pin and any electrical symtoms you had observed previous to tightening?

Did the symptoms dissapear after tightening?

Thanks

Roy

Relays Bases May 10 2010.pdf

[Otis]

I have been plauged by an intermittent fault recently, the tacho would drop out and the battery loosing it's charge. I figured out that I was loosing the voltage from the headlight relay which also happens to be a reference for the Ducati regulator.

I found the 87 contact on R2 was not gripping the relay pin at all. It took me about 2 hours to tighten all contacts

Heres a sinple drawing showing how easy it is to remove the contacts from the base and re-tighten them.

I also advocate the appllication of some form of grease to protect the connection from corrosion. I use only Petroleum Jelly aka Vasilene myself. Do 1 relay at a time so you don't forget where the wires go.

BTW my release tool is just a sliver of sheet metal whch I cut in the vice with a cold chisel. looks pretty rough but does the job. Even a thin nail will work to release the clip. Once you get the hang of it they pop right out. A pair of needle nose pliers makes the job even easier.

 

I would be interested to hear if anyone else finds loose connections i.e. no tension when slid onto a relay pin. In other words please test it for tension before squeezing.

Which Relay, Which pin and any electrical symtoms you had observed previous to tightening?

Did the symptoms dissapear after tightening?

Thanks

Roy

[Otis]

Roy,recently had problems with the relay for the fuel pump,motor stopping and missing.Got my auto electrion to replace the conecters for that relay and solved the problem.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Roy,recently had problems with the relay for the fuel pump,motor stopping and missing.Got my auto electrion to replace the conecters for that relay and solved the problem.

Thanks Otis, left alone the bases would likely last for ever, but at the first sign of a problem we do the relay shuffle which eventually springs the contacts apart.

I'm guilty of that myself.

Cheers

Roy

[cash1000]

Is the idea of the LEDs connected to the relay bases to check to see that the relays are connected?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Is the idea of the LEDs connected to the relay bases to check to see that the relays are connected?

It checks to see if the contacts are closed

If the coil burns out it won't light

If the contact doesn't make it won't light

If the base connector isn't making contact with the relay pin it won't light.

 

It just takes a glance to see if the LEDs are on in the right pattern

 

_1__2__3__4__5 Relay No

Off On On On Off Key on

Off On On On On A short pulse while the pump primes

On Off On On On Cranking

Off On On On On Running

 

As someone pointed out the light on R3 allows you to check the stand switch or the neutral switch.

It's a bit of a gimick really but I like that sort of thing