clutch line bleeder

[mznyc]

I did mine a summer or two ago and I dont remember it being all that hard. I think if I remember right its best to remove the shock remote reservoir to access the bleeder. You can get the box end wrench in that way. Of course I have pod filters and no airbox to get in the way, so I dont know if thats an issue or not. If the bleeder is frozen and stripped I suppose you'll need to get it off with vise grips and just replace it with a new one. I dont even think I took the back wheel off when I did mine, but I would never have been able to get at it without taking off that remote reservoir.

Thanks Richard,I already removed the shock remote.I agree ,it should be easy,but the placement of it and it's exposure to water and grime makes it vulnerable to seizing.Unfortunately this was my first experience with it and I should have hit it with WD-30 first.I already ordered a Speedbleeder but will still have to get her out for the replacement,....

[Skeeve]

Remove the rear wheel, use a 6 point wrench or socket to break it loose. You can then bleed it easily.

No go on that Red Rider,She's rounded. Normal or special socket won't do it.Lookin for ole timey solution,

 

1st off, penetrant: Kroil or a mix of acetone & atf [tested to work almost as well as the Kroil, cheap & easy DIY penetrant! ]

 

After it has soaked for a day or so, you'll need something that can get in there & grab that screw head. I haven't put eyeballs on this yet, but is there any way a basin wrench can get in there & wrestle that sucker out? Failing that, there's always the left-hand drill bit/easy out method of stuck screw removal, but we'd like to avoid such drastic measures.

 

Either way, be certain to have the new replacement screw on hand, maybe w/ some anti-seize as well? [Caution: have no idea how trace amounts of AS would react w/ the clutch fluid...Greg? Pete? - any input?]

[mznyc]

Remove the rear wheel, use a 6 point wrench or socket to break it loose. You can then bleed it easily.

No go on that Red Rider,She's rounded. Normal or special socket won't do it.Lookin for ole timey solution,

 

1st off, penetrant: Kroil or a mix of acetone & atf [tested to work almost as well as the Kroil, cheap & easy DIY penetrant! ]

 

After it has soaked for a day or so, you'll need something that can get in there & grab that screw head. I haven't put eyeballs on this yet, but is there any way a basin wrench can get in there & wrestle that sucker out? Failing that, there's always the left-hand drill bit/easy out method of stuck screw removal, but we'd like to avoid such drastic measures.

 

Either way, be certain to have the new replacement screw on hand, maybe w/ some anti-seize as well? [Caution: have no idea how trace amounts of AS would react w/ the clutch fluid...Greg? Pete? - any input?]

Thanks Skeeve I have the speedbleeder valve on order,should be in early this week. Could the bleeder valve be obtained from a auto parts store if the SP gets delayed? Is this something standard? Removing the valve ,I'm assuming I'll completely drain system and let air in.By refilling and pumping I assume that I shouldn't have any problem gettin the air out?

thanks,

MZ

[Tom M]

Be real careful with that speed bleeder Michael. IIRC a bunch of people have come here with reports of damaged slave cylinders because they used one that was a little longer than stock.

 

I think the easiest access to that bleeder is with the rear wheel off.

 

Good luck with it

[mznyc]

Thanks Tom,

Ya I read the older threads about SB's being longer and a little grinding down is in order.Once I get the older one out ,I'll match the SB length to the original.

 

Anyone have an idea if original is available at auto part stores?

[mznyc]

This bleeder is like the Guzzi G-spot, I know where it is, I can touch it, but I cant get the damn thing to work!

The funniest line on the forum yet!

 

I finally go the effer off after several hours over 3 days.

If your planning on doing a clutch bleed for the first time,STOP!, READ THIS FIRST!

 

1)Take the advice of others and soak the sucker overnight with a penetrant.

2)Disconnect the battery

3)Remove starter.I found I had more room to maneuver than removing wheel and coming from the back

4)Have a 6 point 10mm socket head,adjustable head angle ratchet wrench with a long handle and/or long breaker bar,and an 10mm open box wrench.

I replaced the stripped stock bleeder with a Speed Bleeder.It is longer than stock with a conical end.I had a local race shop grind it off for $5.It also has a 11mm head so you get a little more torque to turn it.It's still slightly longer but I was able to get it in without forcing it.Very easy to bleed.Open valve,reservoir cap,pump lever,fill reservoir,close valve,close res cap,drink beer

Here's low res pic of the valves,Speedbleeder on top,