Spring Swap

[Guest Nogbad]

Decided to fettle the V11 today. As I had the seat and the side panels off I decided to try the seat latch - fast idle spring swap.

 

Result. Perfect fast idle action and a seat latch action that is little if any heavier than before. The two springs do seem to fit better in the new locations for sure.

 

Additional work:

 

Packed up the tank to stop rubbing on the side panels.

Fitted sticky foam pads wherever things were rubbing, particularly under the seat pan.

Welded up a few cracks in the plastic side panels from the back before they went completely.

Improved the staking of the speedo angle drive.

 

One thing someone can answer hopefully:

 

How in heaven's name are you supposed to access the preload collars on the Sachs shock? Do you have to take the tank off?

 

I'm thinking of putting a layer of glass cloth and resin on the back face of the side panels and starter cover to prevent cracks and generally improve the strength of the moulding. Standard resin is styrene based so should bond perfectly with the ABS side panels. Anyone see any problem with the idea?

[jrt]

How did you weld up the cracks in the plastic? Heat welding?

 

I access the locking collars with a long punch and careful tapping with a hammer. Not really optimal, but I like my knuckle skin.

 

Glad to hear the spring swap worked.

[Guest ratchethack]

Nog, a few things.

 

RE: Staking the disk on the speedo angle drive: Good idea. I lost a cable when the retaining disk popped out because it hadn't been staked well enough at the factory.

 

RE: Fiberglassing the back of the side covers: I'd be a little concerned about distortion as the resin cures, as well as the potential for clearance problems. I've had very good results permanently arresting cracks that have started in several areas on these and in other areas by using an epoxy product available here in the US called JB Weld, but applied only sparingly. At the front fender, I relieved the inside of the fender with a grinder and JB Welded in stainless steel washers, which then became part of the fender, making the mounting bosses much stronger.

 

RE: Raising the tank up off the side covers to eliminate pressure and rubbing on the side covers: Another very good idea that I've also proven to myself. I used a large 1/4" thick nylon washer under the rear tank bolt.

 

RE: Accessing the shock preload collars: The tank need not be removed. The best option is to insert a long screwdriver carefully so as not to nick up the finish, and rap on it with a hammer to turn the threaded collars. Sounds more gruesome than it is, and it is a little tedious, but actually works fairly well. A few well-directed shots of WD40 or similar on the shock body to clean off the threads & provide some lubrication first can be a lifesaver here.

 

Hey Nog - I'll bet you have more fun and get greater satisfaction from fettling your Guzzi than you would a "Neckbolt", and I reckon you know it too.

[Guest Nogbad]

Hey Nog - I'll bet you have more fun and get greater satisfaction from fettling your Guzzi than you would a "Neckbolt", and I reckon you know it too.

58905[/snapback]

 

 

You have me there. I do have a problem with the alternator cover, 3 screws came out ok, the 4th one won't. Tried an impact driver but can't get a clear hit. Screwhead is mangled so will have to drill the head off and take the remains out with a molegrip. Bah!

[beauchemin]

Nogbad quoted from the topic titled "spring question" http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5817

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"I can't think of any circumstances where I would care enough about the fast idle lever to be bothered with fiddling about trying to fix it. Unless I develop some weird obsessive compulsive disorder where my bike has to be perfect I guess my fast idle will never be fixed."

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

So what's up Nog - what caused you to develop that disorder all of a sudden?

[Guest Nogbad]

Nogbad quoted from the topic titled "spring question" http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5817

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"I can't think of any circumstances where I would care enough about the fast idle lever to be bothered with fiddling about trying to fix it. Unless I develop some weird obsessive compulsive disorder where my bike has to be perfect I guess my fast idle will never be fixed."

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

So what's up Nog - what caused you to develop that disorder all of a sudden?

58933[/snapback]

 

I had the rear end apart anyway, and became curious. Looking at the two springs, they did seem to be in each other's beds, and given the fact it was the work of just two minutes to try the swap, I did it in the spirit of scientific investigation not because I was really bothered about the fast idle action or suffering from a psychological disorder.

 

I did use the fixed fast idle lever this morning though!

[belfastguzzi]

I did use the fixed fast idle lever this morning though!

58945[/snapback]

 

Well, are you still using it, or was it a one-off experiment in the spirit of scientific adventure? I suppose you had to use it at least once, having spent a couple of minutes changing springs.

 

I'm curious, as you didn't use it before.

[Guest Nogbad]

Well, are you still using it, or was it a one-off experiment in the spirit of scientific adventure? I suppose you had to use it at least once, having spent a couple of minutes changing springs.

 

I'm curious, as you didn't use it before.

59269[/snapback]

 

I use it all the time now. I just set the fast idle, fire up, wait 10 seconds and ride off. After a mile I shut it again. Why not, if it's there, working and useful why not use it.

 

Can't really tell the difference with the seat latch, little if any heavier.

[belfastguzzi]

I just set the fast idle, fire up, wait 10 seconds and ride off..... if it's... useful why not use it.

 

59286[/snapback]

 

Is a manual fast idle lever not an anachronism with EFI?

I just fire up & ride off, which is perhaps what you used to do?

 

As I say – just curious: it's not the most critical issue...

my curiosity is aroused as I've discovered that I was wrong about my fast idle lever working. In fact it doesn't. As reported by others, it moves, but becomes heavy to move and doesn't stay put. As I haven't been using it, I didn't realise that it doesn't stay set at an 'on' position.

[Guest Nogbad]

Is a manual fast idle lever not an anachronism with EFI?

I just fire up & ride off, which is perhaps what you used to do?

 

As I say – just curious: it's not the most critical issue...

my curiosity is aroused as I've discovered that I was wrong about my fast idle lever working. In fact it doesn't. As reported by others, it moves, but becomes heavy to move and doesn't stay put. As I haven't been using it, I didn't realise that it doesn't stay set at an 'on' position.

59289[/snapback]

 

The use of it is that if it works, you don't have to catch a cold engine on the throttle at the first junction on a cold day. It isn't that much use, but it does make for a slight advantage. It simply provides an adjustable idle stop.

 

Try swapping your springs, it really is the work of 5 minutes.

 

You could always buy a Buell instead Belfast!

[quazi-moto]

I should try the swap since I usually end up holding in the clutch lever whilst (sounds british eh???) pushing up on the fast idle lever. Its a contortionist undertaking that I'd rather not do if avoidable.

[belfastguzzi]

I usually end up holding in the clutch lever whilst pushing up on the fast idle lever. Its a contortionist undertaking that I'd rather not do if avoidable.

59301[/snapback]

 

It's avoidable. OK, try this: while or whilst holding in the clutch lever, use your foot to twist the black bit on the end of the right-side handlebar. People usually call it a throttle and it makes the engine go faster, just like that tricky little lever. If you can't get your foot up, try using your teeth, but be careful that you don't poke your eye out on anything pointy.

 

Another good tip is to run hard while/st pushing the bike so that enough momentum is built-up to help the engine keep turning over. You'll need to knock it into gear (maybe with your knee or elbow) and jump on the seat sharpish. However don't do this IF you have swapped the springs over. With the super strength spring fitted, a sudden jolt on the seat will unsettle the latch and the seat will fly up, ejecting you clear off. You've no hope of operating the lever then, with both arms in slings.

[Guest Nogbad]

It's avoidable. OK, try this: while or whilst holding in the clutch lever, use your foot to twist the black bit on the end of the right-side handlebar. People usually call it a throttle and it makes the engine go faster, just like that tricky little lever. If you can't get your foot up, try using your teeth, but be careful that you don't poke your eye out on anything pointy.

 

Another good tip is to run hard while/st pushing the bike so that enough momentum is built-up to help the engine keep turning over. You'll need to knock it into gear (maybe with your knee or elbow) and jump on the seat sharpish. However don't do this IF you have swapped the springs over. With the super strength spring fitted, a sudden jolt on the seat will unsettle the latch and the seat will fly up, ejecting you clear off. You've no hope of operating the lever then, with both arms in slings.

59391[/snapback]

 

Ah, the evils of the Demon Drink...... Don't worry, you'll be ok in the morning.

[badmotogoozer]

...Don't worry, you'll be ok in the morning.

59399[/snapback]

 

What makes you say that?? He's been here a lot of mornings and he hasn't been OK yet...

 

Rj

[Guest Nogbad]

What makes you say that??  He's been here a lot of mornings and he hasn't been OK yet...

 

Rj

59657[/snapback]

 

Hope he isn't sulking!