Nasty Hiccup

[docc]

Right , then:

 

Andy, I'll call you in the morning; I know you need your rest to blow the rest of us right off the road with your impeccable technique. When I grow up, I'm gonna ride just like you! We're (I'm) gonna miss you at the Spine Raid. If any more hot babes get hauled off in a patrol car, you'll be sorry you missed it!

 

Apparently, the intake clamps had loosened up enough to create an air leak (TEN POINTS AND THE CHAMPIONSHIP TO GREG FIELD!!)

 

While putzing around, wrapping the intakes with electrical tape, I not only vapor locked the fuel feed , but didn't get the clamps tight enough. After cooling everything off and retightening the clamps cold, and hot, the *pop* is gone and I can crack the throttle without stutter.

 

I think we should add a note to the pinned tune-up thread to tighten the intake clamps. I forgot all about them!

[dlaing]

You don't want to overtighten them either as they will deform and leak more easily.

[dlaing]

While putzing around, wrapping the intakes with electrical tape, I not only vapor locked the fuel feed ,

Did you find anything good to wrap the fuel feed with?

[docc]

My fuel feed line is shortened, the pump moved forward and the line wrapped with zinc-coated/braided copper.

 

Just back form the South'n Spine Raid, the Sport returned an astounding 39 mpg.

 

It also popped and spit the whole time. The 10% ethanol is rather suspect. My plan is to get Corse Motorsports in Nashville to tweak the CO with the Axone. and reset the TPS to the 150 mV baseline (rather than the 165 I'm using).

 

Although, I must say, from 5000 rpm and up the beast is voracious!

[docc]

Andy found the CO leaned out considerably and zeroed it out with the VDSTS, confirmed with exhaust gas analyzer. The Sport runs so much better now, it's really amazing!

At this point, I don't know how many threads to tie together: Popping/ sputtering/ melted regulator fuses/ throttle bodies/ lean condition/ unstable idle . . .

Over the past several years I have chased a problem with the main ( 30 amp regulator ) fuse heating up (melting, without 'blowing' and otherwise getting *HOT*). I moved it out of the fuse block where the contacts are minimal and soldered in an in-line fuse holder for a 30 amp ATO/ATC fuse.

Twice, now, this fuse has gotten so hot as to burn off its contacts (without blowing the fuse).

Routinely, this fuse has run temperatures of 130-175 degrees Fahrenheit.

Having had the popping/sputtering, marginal charging and lean condition - I found it astounding how the Sport ran after changing the regulator fuse to a full size "MAXI" fuse. (Fahrenheit temperature: 95-105)

I've 59,000 miles on this bike and have a good sense of its 'changes.' I'll keep you posted how this goes . . .

 

 

 

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

EDIT/ 30 October 2016

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&p=214384

http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/gallery_328_223_1016816.jpeg

EDIT/15 Nov 2016: Alternative Circuit Breaker:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&p=214894

http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/gallery_328_223_1207979.jpeg

[dlaing]

docc said:

DUDE!

[dlaing]

Andy found the CO leaned out considerably and zeroed it out with the VDSTS. The Sport runs so much better now, it's really amazing!

Perhaps it will take 10,000 more posts before the value of the VDSTS and

'fuel trim' is fully appreciated????

[docc]

It makes me wonder if the CO has been out of trim for the past 59,000 miles, or if the data in the ECU could be unstable enough that my low and unstable voltages could have caused it to lose its setting.

 

Dave has said before that some of my Sport's issues sounded like there was a connection problem elsewhere in the harness. Looks like the case with the broken blade on the regulator fuse - just enough contact to keep the battery light off, but it had to be throwing some terrific voltage spikes. Hence, the two recent fried relays, short headlamp bulb life, weak charging, and the unstable running conditions.

 

The little ATO/ATC blade fuses just don't seem up to the task. With the infrared temperature results showing a 40-70 Fahrenheit degree improvement, I believe the MAXI fuse is the solution.

 

AFter chasing this for the past year or so, I can't say enough: Check your 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of heat and poor contact!

[Greg Field]

+1. I just went through the same thing, except that the only symptom was melting plastic on the fuses.

[dlaing]

The little ATO/ATC blade fuses just don't seem up to the task. With the infrared temperature results showing a 40-70 Fahrenheit degree improvement, I believe the MAXI fuse is the solution.

I think that is excellent advice.

When I went to the Electrex regulator, they recommended NO fuse.

I thought that was not really a good idea, but the regulator wants an unrestricted conduit to the battery.

I ignored their advice and went with a small inline fuse like what went bad on Docc's. I think the maximum amp rating on the fuse holder is 30A. I have been lucky so far. At least I upgraded the wire to a thicker gauge.

It may or may not be a mistake to use a fuse, but if you do use a fuse, the little ATC fuse insulated in the holder clearly has a high risk of failure. After seeing Docc's fuse, I'll be replacing it when I get a chance.

The Maxi fuses are a good bet.

Glass tube type fuses may be even better bets, IF you can find decent fuse holders.

[Skeeve]

It may or may not be a mistake to use a fuse, but if you do use a fuse, the little ATC fuse insulated in the holder clearly has a high risk of failure. After seeing Docc's fuse, I'll be replacing it when I get a chance.

The Maxi fuses are a good bet.

Glass tube type fuses may be even better bets, IF you can find decent fuse holders.

 

Perhaps the solution are breakers that can be reset, vs. having to carry a spare fuse? I think that's the way airplanes do it; since riding a motorcycle is deemed just one step below flying helicopters for "learning difficulty," maybe we should steal a page from aero practice? After all, for a Guzzi it's just going back to their roots...

[docc]

Funny: about the melting plastic and the circuit breaker. I noticed the plastic melting on my fuse (again) and got a circuit breaker thinking it would be more 'durable.' Then, I couldn't get the fuse out: one side had welded in and the other, well the photo shows it cooked off.

 

Again, I can't tell you how much better my bike is running after splicing in the MAXI fuse. And, I've been at this a while. Not my first rodeo and all . . .

[docc]

After riding to Barber's for the Vintage Event, the Sport continued to pop just off idle and occasionally stall especially when very hot.

I've pulled the tank to service everything I can find including replacing the air manifold rubber. While waiting for parts, I've begun cleaning and servicing all the connectors.

When I pulled the right coil wire, I found enough green crud to fill the entire connection. It was so set, I had to grind it out with a Dremel. The wire end detached and looks to have corroded in two. I'm expecting good things when this all goes back together!

(The left side looked perfect!)

[gstallons]

I assume you are replacing the terminal at the end of thespark plug wire? It should read 2-10k resistance after you repair it. If not replace the wire. Clean thie cavity TOTALLY where the plug wire plugs into the coil. Check the resistance of the secondary(ign.coil) side compared to the other coil. If you are not sure (check the price first) buy another coil. You would not want this to break down on the road?

[docc]

I did replace the terminal end, cleaned it all up well with electronics cleaner and applied copper paste liberally to the connection before applying silicone grease to the boot at both the coil and the wire.

 

I'll check that resistance and compare to the good wire on the left.

 

How do you check the "secondary side?"

 

(I see myself taking things further apart on the Sport . . .talk about mission creep!)