Bled clutch/ broken master cylinder spring

[docc]

Having the Sport down for 100,000 kilometer service, I bled the clutch like a good boy. Now there is 7mm play at the lever before the master cylinder engages.

 

What gives?

[savagehenry]

I had a similar experience once. I had just bled my clutch, and the next day it was engaging WAY later than the day before. I found this in the early morning on the way to work, my shifts were totally out of time , something I didn't have to think about before, now battling it the whole ride. Turned out to be my son played with the lever and put it either on to a different adjustable setting, or in between settings. I didn't even think to look for this as I had not messed with it. Hope it will be as simple as this for you

[gstallons]

Not to be a smart**s but what procedure did you use?

The foolproof method I use is to gravity bleed. Open the bleed screw and let the fluid run all over the floor occasionally refilling the m/c reservior. Leave the lever ALONE. Close the bleeder when you have wasted enough fluid. Try it after closing the bleeder screw and covering the reservior. Work the lever a few times before condemning your work.

p.s. it should be fine.

[docc]

I've had to adjust the lever position all the way out just to get some hydraulic action before the lever hits the bar. Usually I keep it adjusted closest as I have rather short fingers. To make matters worse, I have the grips off right now waiting for replacements, so the feel is completely odd.

 

To bleed, I had my son squeeze and hold while I opened and closed the bleeder. We ran about 2 1/2 reservoirs through and never ran it dry.

 

I have the master cylinder off now looking perhaps to inspect and clean it. The operating rod is 23mm and doesn't protrude from the rubber cuff. I can't see how to get the thing apart to clean or rebuild.

 

Also, I see the aluminum bracket for the reservoir is cracking.

 

This 100,000 kM service is growing every day!

[docc]

I got the piston out with compressed air. The spring came out in four parts! Looks like it had been that way for a time. I suppose the bleeding didn't break it, but just brought the trouble to light.

 

Now the trouble: is it rebuildable and where to get the kit. Otherwise, should I send it off for the service?

[Greg Field]

There are rebuild kits for Brembo 13mm m/cs. Will they work in yours? Don't know. I'll send you one as an experiment. If it doesn't match, just return it.

[gstallons]

Nice guy!

[docc]

OH, hey, let me say, "Greg is top notch!" I don't know where I'd be without my "local Moto Guzzi dealer in Seattle, Washington." (He's 2000 miles away!)

 

Lately, I've been calling Greg every couple days as I find new issues, or make blunders, while I go all through the Sport for its 100,000 kM service.

 

Since I tore up the boot, O-ring and nylon collar on the M/C, I'll likely be calling again as I don't think those are usually included in the rebuild kit.

 

(I should have never let the lovely Sport see me riding those Triumphs at Barber's. I think she was alright until I came back with that lusty grin on the Blazing Orange Speed Triple. )

[docc]

Greg,

 

Looks like the barrel is 12mm. I'll give you a call in the morning since I need some other stuff as well.

 

Thanks again! docc

[Greg Field]

Look on the m/c itself. Faintly stamped somewhere will be a 12 or a 13. Late ones use a 13. Early ones may have used a 12, as the clutch pull on them seems softer.

[docc]

It is stamped: DC15 12

 

I'm worried since I tore the rubber boot and munted the nylon retaining collar and O-ring. It doesn't look like those are in the rebuild kits I've seen in the pictures.

[Darius]

Docc

 

I recently had to rebuild my Duc's clutch master which uses similar Brembo parts as the Guzzi (both 12 mm). In my case there was a metal ring that press-fit into the bore to hold everything together (as opposed to a "C" clip). If you happen to run into this, they are a PIA to install without alignment problems or pushing in too far. I finally figured out to use a socket that just fit into the ID of the bore and gently tapped with a wooden mallet to seat it. I am sure Greg has plenty of good advise as well.

[docc]

Yeah, that's the part that has me worried. It's a shouldered nylon ring that anchors the dust seal. I thought about rigging up a rigid tube, or yes a socket, to try and press it in. The mallet idea sounds like a winner.

 

I didn't know if I should try and seat the rubber dust seal at the same time or put it in after (?)

 

Also, did you use an assembly lube or just wet the piston with fluid?

[gstallons]

Anyone BTDT ? Docc needs your input !

[docc]

The question has become:

 

How do you remove the metal retaining ring?