Top end work, 1100 Sport

[raz]

Is this some sort of Heli-Coil for valve guides?

http://www.cylinderh....uk/K-line.html

 

I would regard it as TV-shop-style crap if I didn't know Roper and many others swear by them. Cheaper and better.

 

http://www.v11lemans...indpost&p=39999

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

Raz: We've got 'em for $39.95 US per side, so with shipping it'd be about $110 for both sides.

 

 

Greg, can you quote shipping to Czech? I tried to send you PM but it did not allow me to

 

 

thanks

 

Slavek

[raz]

Actually it ended up just below $98 for me, I guess it can't be much more for Czech. Try mailing parts@motointernational.com

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

thx Raz!

[raz]

I really regret not measuring valve spring preloads before leaving heads for overhaul, because afterwards it was a full mm too long on two valves and 0.6 mm on the others. I do not believe the head work can account for that much so I guess it was blind-shimmed from the factory. All of them had one 1.0 mm shim and two 0.3 mm shims...

 

I'm replacing all springs but I shimmed it up to spec for good measure. Maybe I could even raise my rev limiter a couple of hundred rpms . I sourced four new 1 mm shims (had to use OEM, they are not standard size), and I also moved two of the 0.3 mm ones from exhaust to inlet. Now the (heavier) inlet valves are 34.7 (harder end of range 34.7-35.0) and the exhausts are 34.9.

 

I also replaced my oil pump bearing while I had the chance, as it didn't feel 100.0% OK. I hope to never open this engine again, knock on wood. I always wondered about the inconsistent reports of this bearing's size, now I found that's because it's a needle bearing with separate inner and outer races. So it varies depending on what you replace:

 

Inner race is 10x14x20. Outer race is 18x22x20, it fell out by its own weight upon heating the pump body.

Bearing itself is (thus) 14x18x20 but there was two pieces of 14x18x10 in my engine.

 

I wonder what you'd get if ordering the OEM 92252210, maybe that is just one 10 mm needle bearing? Anyway I'm not going to find out. I replaced the lot with a NAO 10x22x20. Any bearing shop should have them. It still is separate races and 2x10 mm but it comes as a set.

[raz]

It seems I picked the wrong guy for regrinding my cam. It's 1-2 months overdue now so I'm fixing some other low prio stuff to remain sane. I've already missed two local bike events and several great days for riding.

 

I bought the Yamaha seals (four of p/n 256-14997-00, about €15 total) that reportedly fits our TB shafts. I can confirm they do. They look just like larger seals but very small, 8 mm ID.

 

I started with the LH throttle body, and on that side the seals were mounted with the open side inwards. I did the same without thinking. Then when I saw the RH side seals was mounted the other way, I realized this is probably the correct fitting - the pressure is always lower inside the TB, right? Unless anyone disagrees (and can explain it) I will dismount the left side again and flip them.

 

Unfortunately a lock ring snapped from the RH shaft. It's under the TPS, the kind with inward tabs that is pushed onto the axle and can't be backed out. I'm puzzled why it broke when I was trying to pry off stuff in the other end of the shaft. Hopefully it will be easy finding a new one

 

Maybe I should take some pics when I redo the left side, and post a how-to.

[gstallons]

It seems I picked the wrong guy for regrinding my cam. It's 1-2 months overdue now so I'm fixing some other low prio stuff to remain sane. I've already missed two local bike events and several great days for riding.

 

I bought the Yamaha seals (four of p/n 256-14997-00, about €15 total) that reportedly fits our TB shafts. I can confirm they do. They look just like larger seals but very small, 8 mm ID.

 

I started with the LH throttle body, and on that side the seals were mounted with the open side inwards. I did the same without thinking. Then when I saw the RH side seals was mounted the other way, I realized this is probably the correct fitting - the pressure is always lower inside the TB, right? Unless anyone disagrees (and can explain it) I will dismount the left side again and flip them.

 

Unfortunately a lock ring snapped from the RH shaft. It's under the TPS, the kind with inward tabs that is pushed onto the axle and can't be backed out. I'm puzzled why it broke when I was trying to pry off stuff in the other end of the shaft. Hopefully it will be easy finding a new one

 

Maybe I should take some pics when I redo the left side, and post a how-to.

 

You will want this particular seal with the sealing portion toward the atmosphere. The low pressure of manifold vacuum will be pulling inward instead of pushing outward.

I do not understand the last portion about the snap ring? can you post pics about this so we can better evaluate this ?

[raz]

But then which side is the "Sealing portion", the open or the flat? These seals are so small, I'm not sure there are lips and stuff like on a larger seal. There is definitely no spring. It's pretty soft so maybe if the flat side is outwards, the seal will bulge when pulled in and seal better?

 

The lock ring. The tabs grab the shaft so you can only push it further down, not back. I have no idea what it's called in Swedish, let alone English. But they are not too uncommon.

[raz]

The lock ring. The tabs grab the shaft so you can only push it further down, not back. I have no idea what it's called in Swedish, let alone English. But they are not too uncommon.

 

Apparently the lock ring is called a "push on fastener" and a common name is Starlock. Another name is Quicklock.

 

http://www.springmasters.com/sp/starlock-push-on-fasteners-metric.html

[raz]

Alive and ticking

 

Finally bike was back on road today, a month or more later than expected (due to waiting for the cam).

 

An unexpected problem when assembling the engine was that a couple of the cylinder studs hit the rockers, as the heads are now 1 mm thinner. I cut a couple of mm from them. Other than that, no problems except it took forever to get an oil pressure. Luckily I did that by cranking without spark plugs (and fuse to sparks and injectors removed). I think there was almost two minutes total. I took long pauses letting the starter cool down, it got pretty hot.

 

After I put the plugs and fuse back the engine fired after a split second of cranking, and idle and sync was perfect just from my initial settings. Damn cool if you ask me!

 

In addition to replacing the TB shaft seals, I replaced my sloppy throttle linkage ball joint with a metal joint from Volvo. My TPS now shows the same with engine running. Before, it would raise over 100 mV when I started it.

 

Took it for a 30 km ride or so, everything seems fine. Thanks to all contributors and special thanks to Luhbo, who lended me a cam for making a master.

[docc]

Raz,

What a fantastic event! Fabulous to see you on the road again!

 

Well done and ride well! docc

[raz]

An unexpected problem when assembling the engine was that a couple of the cylinder studs hit the rockers, as the heads are now 1 mm thinner. I cut a couple of mm from them.

 

For the record, I had to cut a couple of mm off the two remaining studs located under the rockers, after re-torquing the heads. I'm amazed re-torquing compresses the gaskets that much, there was plenty of room between them after the initial torquing.

[jrt]

Right on! Glad to hear it!

[Tom M]

For the record, I had to cut a couple of mm off the two remaining studs located under the rockers, after re-torquing the heads. I'm amazed re-torquing compresses the gaskets that much, there was plenty of room between them after the initial torquing.

 

Congrat's on getting your bike back on the road Raz! I was surprised at how loose my head bolts were when I retorqued them 500 miles after installing fresh gaskets too. That's a step that should never be skipped.

 

How's the bike running?

[raz]

So, after 2000 kms or so (new stuff broken in, heads re-torqued, oil changed to synthetic) I tested the compression. Both sides give 12 kg or 170 psi. That's quite a bit better than what I had before as stated in this old thread.

 

I remember from that time I could press the tester firm enough to not leak at all (it's very easy to hear). This time, I just couldn't make it absolutely tight - too much pressure!!