Oil leak

[raz]

A new one is 167USD, or a couple hundred bucks / two-bucks-euro-fifty. Too many lire to count. Crazy.

You may find it much lower priced (and easier to source) from an auto part dealer. The sensor is a Magneti Marelli SEN-8I3, allegedly used in Alfa Romeo 145/146 1.4, Fiat Tempra 1.8 ie, Fiat Tipo 1.8 ie, Lancia Dedra 1.8 ie, Lancia Delta II 1.8 ie, etc.

 

Fiat p/n PDTS0032, 60810103, 64820168010, SEN8I3, SEB163, 7733001

[luhbo]

Now that's a really good point!

 

Hubert

[docc]

Interesting. Yet, dealers for those cars are the only ones more rare than Moto Guzzi here in the states.

 

Maybe "online." Thanks for the details.

 

I'm warming up my tube of RTV silicone as we speak . . .

[richard100t]

Interesting. Yet, dealers for those cars are the only ones more rare than Moto Guzzi here in the states.

 

Maybe "online." Thanks for the details.

 

I'm warming up my tube of RTV silicone as we speak . . .

Try Ebay

[docc]

The RTV didn't stick at all. On to JB Weld now. Will try a ride tomorrow and see. After stripping the heads on both the fasteners, and doubling my vocabulary, the price of admission is looking more reasonable . . .<_>

 

I fear I may have contributed to this by using the CI-4 5W-40 oil "designed for 15W-40 applications"); Back to 20W-50SG now.

[docc]

200 kM today and no leak! So far, the JB Weld and new O-ring have made good seals.

[richard100t]

200 kM today and no leak! So far, the JB Weld and new O-ring have made good seals.

Now that you've ridden a few hundred more kilos since you replaced the Redline in your rear drive does it still drip?

[docc]

On 9/7/2010 at 3:19 PM, richard100t said:

On 9/7/2010 at 2:36 PM, docc said:

200 kM today and no leak! So far, the JB Weld and new O-ring have made good seals.

Now that you've ridden a few hundred more kilos since you replaced the Redline in your rear drive does it still drip?

 

Interesting you should ask! Preparing to leave on this upcoming Sports-Tour, these have been the two most plaguing issues.

 

After the flush and refill with "normal" GL-5 the rear drive certainly no longer leaks, doesn't *drip*, and I rather hesitate to say doesn't even splatter or even haze.

 

Now the conundrum is whether to add back little moly . . .

[luhbo]

Over here the "Castrol MTX SAE 75W140" is quite popular. No moly necessary with this oil.

 

In case you feel the need for a new love, now that your old ginger/raspberry one so shamelessly disappointed you, you might find one here:

 

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9029458&contentId=7053912

 

Especially the Tribol 1100 looks rather atractive. No wonder, as this oil promisses the antiageing factor we're all after.

 

Hubert

[motowarren]

The seal doesn't appear to be leaking on this one. The oil looks to be pushing through the sensor itself. A new one is 167USD, or a couple hundred bucks / a-buck-euro-fifty. Too many lire to count. Crazy.

 

I'll have to try and have my way with it using my arsenal of sealants and adhesives.

 

150 Euro . . . I just can't.

 

Please say a little prayer for my RTV silicone.

 

 

Just curious. What was the outcome of this fix??

[docc]

 

The seal doesn't appear to be leaking on this one. The oil looks to be pushing through the sensor itself. A new one is 167USD, or a couple hundred bucks / a-buck-euro-fifty. Too many lire to count. Crazy.

 

I'll have to try and have my way with it using my arsenal of sealants and adhesives.

 

150 Euro . . . I just can't.

 

Please say a little prayer for my RTV silicone.

 

 

Just curious. What was the outcome of this fix??

 

The RTV silcone did not work. Scroll up to Post #20, above. It shows a picture of the JB Weld epoxy I used to seal the wire into the sensor. I had already replaced the O-ring and resumed using 20-50 motor oil. That was 3 1/2 years ago, 16,000 miles and still good! Occasionally there is a little haze below the sensor that I simply clean off and make sure the fasteners are tight.

[68C]

I have not used any RTV sealants for the last 20 years since I used it on a Yamaha TR1 v-twin.  A small blob on the inside of a casing came loose and blocked the oil feed to the cyl head which trashed the camshaft.  If you must use it just use the barest amount.  Silicon goes rather soft and swells when exposed to oil for a long time, perhaps this is a good thing as it may help seal but a bad thing if too much has extruded on the inside.

 

I prefer Hylomar, orange or blue - not the old fashioned red type. 

 

Lycoming piston engines, as fitted to most small prop aircraft, have no gasket between the crankcase halves.  They rely on a thin film of Hylomar onto which is laid a single thread of ordinary sewing cotton. When you unbolt one years later the cotton has crushed flat, I believe it helps hold the Hylomar from squeezing out.  I use this technique on all my old Brit bikes.

[John in Leeds]

I have not used any RTV sealants for the last 20 years since I used it on a Yamaha TR1 v-twin......

 

Ye Gods that takes me back, had one to satisfy my craving for a non Harley v-twin.   Fully enclosed rear chain was a big attraction.  Brand new they were selling for amazing knock down prices. 

[68C]

Ye Gods that takes me back, had one to satisfy my craving for a non Harley v-twin.   Fully enclosed rear chain was a big attraction.  Brand new they were selling for amazing knock down prices.

 

Yeah, fully enclosed chain a great idea, unless you are lazy and can't be bothered to take the covers off to look at it.  Mine broke - punched a hole in the casing and left me stuck on the M3. Managed to cut a piece of wire out of the fence and bodged the chain for a slow crawl off the motorway,  How I laughed.

[docc]

Still watching for dribbles and drips all about the Sport. After a really thorough degreasing and addressing several other (wet) concerns, it appears the sensor is drizzling a bit. Ugh.

 

I must admit that I sourced the O-ring (16,000 miles ago) from the plumbing department at Ace Hardware.

 

Would an automotive O-ring be a different composition, or am I just in for a replacement every 25.000 km?