Jumpy Speedometer

[v11brad]

Low ryter this responce may to late to help you but I succeded in fixing my jumpy speedo. My cable finaly broke near the top,I bought a new cable assembly from mg cycle but it had to small a fastner on one end so I used the inner cable, which was the wrong length.That was fixed by cutting both ends down and cutting the brass swedged fitting to half its length then reinforcing with solder.Also put a tube splint around the outter sheath to straighten a 10 degree kink right at the speedo end. Speedo is steady through the entire range now, I only hope now is it holds up, good luck.

 

Reply;

It sounds like yours is worse than mine, mine jumped below 25 mph.straightening the kink

seemed to cure mine.

Somewhere in Guzziology Dave richordson states the difficulty of obtaining correct cables.

My replacement came in a bag marked Stucchi Luigi from Mandello del Lario.I was suspicious something was wrong with a price of $17.60 when the other types are priced far higher.Harpers offers inner cables for only $12 which will be my next choice untill the correct part is offered.

[LowRyter]

mine is still jumping all over.

 

I did lube and it just ran out the bottom. the cable seemed pretty free when I spun it from the transmission side.

 

but this makes me think the cable is the problem. Mine won't set back to zero when sitting still, it will stick at 20 or so, and by blipping the throttle it shakes down to zero.

 

I wonder why the replacement you purchased didn't fit?

[abouc]

I replaced the angle drive a few weeks ago with a brand new OEM part. Cable was well lubricated and rerouted to avoid as many bends as possible. It worked beautifully for 1 week, then the cap blew off the angle drive going 80mph (or so). Back to no speedo again.

[docc]

AAAArrggh! Always this for the cap:

 

(JB Weld or other epoxy)

[zappa]

mine is still jumping all over.

 

I did lube and it just ran out the bottom. the cable seemed pretty free when I spun it from the transmission side.

 

but this makes me think the cable is the problem. Mine won't set back to zero when sitting still, it will stick at 20 or so, and by blipping the throttle it shakes down to zero.

 

I wonder why the replacement you purchased didn't fit?

Mate I had the same problem 12mths ago just take the unit to a specialist and get them to strip it and clean and lub it before it shits it self completely.

[LowRyter]

mine is still jumping all over.

 

I did lube and it just ran out the bottom. the cable seemed pretty free when I spun it from the transmission side.

 

but this makes me think the cable is the problem. Mine won't set back to zero when sitting still, it will stick at 20 or so, and by blipping the throttle it shakes down to zero.

 

I wonder why the replacement you purchased didn't fit?

Mate I had the same problem 12mths ago just take the unit to a specialist and get them to strip it and clean and lub it before it shits it self completely.

 

wait? did you have the speedo serviced or the cable?

[LowRyter]

mine is still jumping all over.

 

I did lube and it just ran out the bottom. the cable seemed pretty free when I spun it from the transmission side.

 

but this makes me think the cable is the problem. Mine won't set back to zero when sitting still, it will stick at 20 or so, and by blipping the throttle it shakes down to zero.

 

I wonder why the replacement you purchased didn't fit?

Mate I had the same problem 12mths ago just take the unit to a specialist and get them to strip it and clean and lub it before it shits it self completely.

 

wait? did you have the speedo serviced or the cable?

[Kneedragger]

Two weeks ago I injected a really big load of graphite poweder into the cable housing. The needle stayed dead-steady for about 175 miles and then began the dreaded wobble once again. Tonight I'm going to reroute the cable to the least restrictive path I can find. If this fails, I'm going to try the electronic speedo conversion but still use the Marelli face and needle. This latest idea could result in the end of 32 years of sobriety.

 

KD

[v11brad]

Kheedrager

From what I've read your speedo is good, as long as the cable is spining free and true it doesn't induce a wobble into the connection end into the speedo,I believe the final short curved section of flexible cable combinend with whatever clearance between the cable and the shielding is enough to induce a wobble in the cable to speedo connection, resulting in the eratic needle.Your graphite filled that void temporaily dampening out any wobble.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Kheedrager

From what I've read your speedo is good, as long as the cable is spining free and true it doesn't induce a wobble into the connection end into the speedo,I believe the final short curved section of flexible cable combinend with whatever clearance between the cable and the shielding is enough to induce a wobble in the cable to speedo connection, resulting in the eratic needle.Your graphite filled that void temporaily dampening out any wobble.

 

I think you're right about the curve, I just replaced the inner on my Cali II tach and it wobbled from day one. Except for the curve at the end the cable is almost straight and very short.

 

On the other hand my V11 speedo cable has been badly chewed, kinked, patched, repaired and it still runs dead smooth.

A friend gave me a nice outer from a LeMans, I plan on doing away with the angle drives as a winter project.

[v11brad]

odd how speedo preformance can very between models,my 98 ev11 never had a single defect in 68,000 veglia miles (sold) and i only lubed it ocasionaly, like to examine it for a difference for what made it so relible. Only difference comes to mind is the LM fairing that does interfere in right hand full lock steering.

[docc]

 

On the other hand my V11 speedo cable has been badly chewed, kinked, patched, repaired and it still runs dead smooth.

A friend gave me a nice outer from a LeMans, I plan on doing away with the angle drives as a winter project.

 

Very interested to see this outcome. The angle drives (as well as the later "bent tube") allow for the tight clearance below the throttle linkage.

 

Good luck on this, Roy!

[docc]

Here's a link to the thread Speedo Needle Wobble showing a picture of the space that can develop in the lower bevel drive as its mounting pulls apart.

 

The two screws on the upper hold the bevel drive to the back of the speedometer and can only be seen with the instrument pulled out of its case.

Did you ever find out where that washer goes? I'm also having similar speedo problems. I have the gearbox angle drive apart and in addition to the problem areas you mention I notice the inner dia. of the brass bushing is pretty well worn. It's actually oval shaped and about .015 in out of round. I'm sure the would have something to do with needle wobble. My bike has 43k miles. I think it would probably be worthwhile for me to make a new sleeve for the bushing.

Turns out the Shnoor washer was not part of the speedometer drive at all. I believe it is missing from one of the four fasteners holding the calipers. Now, if I could just find where I stored it and return it to its rightful place. . . .

[LowRyter]

so back to basics, how do I fix the jumpy speed?  I lubed the cable, all the lube ran out through the transmission mount.  I removed the cable from the transmission, saw that it ran smooth and was attached tight.  Put it back on.

 

I also note that the speedo doesn't go back to zero when I stop.  I blip the throttle of couple of times to get it bounce to to zero.

 

I am tempted to send the unit & cable to specialist- if I knew one.

 

BTW- I found an Ap on my smart phone that give you a GPS Speedo + compass.  I can just put that phone in clear tank bag cover & I'll have accurate speed.

[gstallons]

Palo Alto Speedo Service is the place. They will diagnose your unit and repair it.You can send the adapter , cable n speedo head if you want. If the bowl will not come off the instrument panel , send the whole thing.