Leaking output shaft seal

[Bjorn]

Thanks for sharing andy! ill send you a PM.

[Gio]

With bike on centre stand and after an over-night drain, I find 0.75 l will fill to half-way up the glass - but this using shockproof heavy which tends to stick to all the surfaces (probably a good thing)  ... ie drain/re-fill volume may be closer to 0.85 with other flavours.

 

Gio

[Bjorn]

So andy, was it easy to get the old seal out? Did you pry it out with screw drives like you intended?

 

How did the surface of the output-shaft look BTW, no corrosion or anything?

[andy york]

Pretty straight forward. Made an awl from old screwdriver and pushed it in there. Laid a thin 1" wide piece of steel under the fulcrim point of the awl so I would not damage the case.

popped right out. Shaft was in great shape. put new seal in and put it all back together. no leak now /

[andy york]

One more note....I you put a spanner on the nut on the back side of the pork chop and try to loosen first from there. Other wise you will probably round out the cap head on the front side. 

[Bjorn]

Thanks for the tip andy.

 

 

RPMs at this ring are rather low, so I'd say the risk of a sudden and fatal failure is rather low, too. What if you just watch it another 4 weeks? "Some" years ago it still was a well accepted fact that one or two drops had to be under every hot machine.

Hubert

Short reaction on the rpms of the shaft drive. Since i had the bike on the dyno anyway, i found it interesting to see the shaft in motion. Since this is something you normally dont see when your on the bike. Spins pretty fast if you ask me

 

[luhbo]

... Spins pretty fast if you ask me

 

Not if I ask the specs for these rings (calculation still outstanding).

 

Anyhow, a dynosession is something rather spectacular, isn't it? I well remember some strange paniking around 7000 when suddenly the midriff started to flutter

 

 

Hubert

[Bjorn]

Yeah the dyno session was great. See my other topic (2-1 exhaust) for more details.

[Bjorn]

I replaced the leaky oil seal this weekend. Thanks to the pictures/method of Andy I saved lots of time by keeping the engine and gearbox in place. The replacement can be done in one day, but is going to be a long one Here's some pictures and short description in case someone wants to tackle this them selfs in the future:

 

1. I have a centre-stand on my bike but could not use it because the RHS pork chop needs removing. Use something else like this small jack. First remove the rear wheel, bevel box and the swing arm.

 

2. Remove the pork chops by loosing the bolts on the rear side first (tip from andy). I cleaned the slightly rusted surface of the frame. Not much effort, and coated it with a thin film of grease.

 

3. Here's the leaky seal. Before you remove it, clean the entire surface around it. You dont want debris getting in the bearing. I used both a awl and and old screw driver ( small tip, sharped it) to first punch a small opening through the steel part of the oilseal. to protect the alu casting I simply bolted a washer to the housing. I never removed a oil seal (this way) before. Ones you get a opening in the old seal, you can use the screw driver to pry it out. Take your time and dont let the screw driver slip, and scratch the inner or outer facing.

 

4. Before fitting the new seal, make sure everything is clean, both the housing and the seal! I use a little gearbox oil on the seal before i pressed (tap with a hammer) it in place with a large socket.

 

5. take a look at your new seal, and cross your fingers you dont have to see it in a long time   Reassemble in reversed order. Make sure you align your swingarm (search on the forum how to do this).

 

I just rode 100km back home, no drippings. Hope it stays like that for lots of KM's.

[luhbo]

I like the washer. Good idea. And the overall rather minimalistic approach.

 

Hubert

[docc]

And another link for the 'How To . . ." section!

[andy york]

congrats on a job well done. I reckon it all made sense once you got in there with it.

 

[andy york]

Now I just need ya to whip out one of those nice headers for me      lol  

[jwh20]

Actually that looks a lot easier than I imagined.  I also like the washer idea to protect the aluminum.  I recall doing something similar years ago on my just-out-of-warranty 1979 Suzuki GS850.  The oil seal on one side of the engine started leaking a LOT of oil and the dealer said the engine had to be removed and the cases split to replace the oil seal.  After looking at it myself I decided it just couldn't be that difficult.  I pulled the old one out with a pair of pliers and pounded the new one in with a wooden dowel.  It never leaked a drop after that.

 

It looked to me that the original seal had been damaged during installation at the factory.  The rubber had a slit in it that looked like it had been sliced by the sharp edge of the protruding end of the crankshaft.  Figures, of course, that it would last just long enough to get through the warranty.

[AndyH]

Fantastic documentation of the process, good work. If only my photography was up to it - well, I'd still not be able to be as clear!