V11 Ecu diagnostics and reprogramming

[docc]

AFAIK, guzzidiag doesn't read the synchronization.  Synching might elevate the idle slightly, but otherwise all of the specs should be set first:

 

Plugs, Valves, TPS baseline, idle degrees open, and CO. (Only those last two are guzzidiag functions)

[Zooter]

This is the problem, without visuals I don't have enough mechanical nouse to flesh out the instructions. I was thinking the process of setting TPS involves playing with the throttle linkage and resetting the right throttle so making rebalancing throttles a necessary step.

[docc]

Ah, I understand.

 

I looked through the tutorial on TPS setting and Throttle Body Balance in  "How To . . .", but there are no photos.

 

Have you looked at that thread?

 

EDIT: In fact, I just looked through the Breakout Harness thread and there are no photos there either.

 

No doubt, i think it's high time for a fresh Tune-Up thread, incorporating the breakout harness and guzzidiag.

 

It's on my To-Do list, really it is!

[Zooter]

I think I have read everything twice by now.

[docc]

I think I have read everything twice by now.

You can locate the TPS and its two Torx fasteners on the top of the right throttle body?

 

With your breakout harness installed, and ALL of the right side linkage and right side idle stop screw, and fast idle linkage released, you can loosen and very carefully rotate the TPS watching the millivoltage. I use a tiny hammer or the T-handle of a hex drive wrench to bump the TPS. As you tighten it, the reading changes, so you'll have to fuss about with it until it settles at the 150mV.

 

Reattach everything and set the idle using the left throttle stop screw (either looking at TPS voltage (.525mV +) or use guzzidiag in degrees opening (3.6º as I recall).

 

This is just a portion of the total tune-up, does this help?

[czakky]

The Guzzidiag tutorial has been on my to do list for a while. Although it seems like most folks have issue with getting the proper cable(s). Something I have almost no knowledge in, as its been a couple years since I got mine and happened to get the correct cable from eBay on my first attempt.

[Zooter]

 

I think I have read everything twice by now.

You can locate the TPS and its two Torx fasteners on the top of the right throttle body?

 

With your breakout harness installed, and ALL of the right side linkage and right side idle stop screw, and fast idle linkage released, you can loosen and very carefully rotate the TPS watching the millivoltage. I use a tiny hammer or the T-handle of a hex drive wrench to bump the TPS. As you tighten it, the reading changes, so you'll have to fuss about with it until it settles at the 150mV.

 

Reattach everything and set the idle using the left throttle stop screw (either looking at TPS voltage (.525mV +) or use guzzidiag in degrees opening (3.6º as I recall).

 

This is just a portion of the total tune-up, does this help?

kinda helps but how does idle magically come good without balancing left and right. Hasn't balance gone when backing off everything on the right

[Zooter]

The Guzzidiag tutorial has been on my to do list for a while. Although it seems like most folks have issue with getting the proper cable(s). Something I have almost no knowledge in, as its been a couple years since I got mine and happened to get the correct cable from eBay on my first attempt.

from what I've been reading you wouldn't know your obd2 is any good unless it came from a known good batch. There are many counterfeits. You ideally make or else purchase TPS breakout cable and then there's the obd to ob2 converter to get off the ECU to your computer.

[Meinolf]

Hi,

 

the following explains why the adjustment procedure including TPS setting is the way it is.

 

The ECU only sees what is send to it by external sensors. These are the TPS (and several others). TPS only provides data about the right throttle valve. The ECU code contains several tables which provide the translation from voltage to degrees (in case of the TPS). The value for fully closed throttle in this table is 157mV (not 150mV). So that's the value you set the TPS to when everything is disconnected.

 

The value after reconnecting the linkage doesn't have to be 525mV. It can be 500 or 400mV. The ECU will interpolate anyway (unless you follow below procedure, then your idle setting is exactly at a break point). Set it so the specific bike idles best. 

 

The 8bit A/D of the ECU sees voltage in steps of 0.0195V. If the TPS base line is set wrong, the ECU sees the opening of the throttle different from where it actually is. This means that values from a different break points are used in the multitude of tables it uses to select and calculate injection duration, ignition, ....

 

The rest of the sync procedure just aligns the left cylinder to the right.

 

IF you have the means to measure AFR then forget the fiddling with the bypass screws. Close both completely, sync and set idle speed with both throttle stops (left and right) and set the right mixture at the break points in the BIN. This eliminates the random flow of air thru the bypass screws at idle (and to a lesser degree at higher rpm). If perfection and transportability of a BIN between different bikes is the target, then the CO trim should be at 0.

 

Cheers

Meinolf

[Meinolf]

Hi,

 

IF you have the means to measure AFR then forget the fiddling with the bypass screws. Close both completely, sync and set idle speed with both throttle stops (left and right) and set the right mixture at the break points in the BIN. This eliminates the random flow of air thru the bypass screws at idle and higher rpm. If perfection and transportability of a BIN between different bikes is the target, then the CO trim should be at 0.

 

and if you have AFR logging at your disposal, then go the full stretch and use the corrected trim tables I have published elsewhere for engine temperature, air temperature and barometric pressure. Else you will be tuning the fuel map values to one specific situation ONLY. AFR will change significantly overall and differently between cylinders if this is not done. Also change the TPS breakpoints, at least the smallest one, to coincide with the actual TPS setting at idle. My recommendation is to change several others (in the range of 6-13°) as well.

 

The ones I am using are 0.99, 3.31, 4.23, 5.15, 6.44, 7.54, 9.38, 10.85, 13.43, 16.93, 21.53, 28.15, 37,03, 48.28, 60.93, 84.84.

 

0.99° is the TPS setting at idle speed on my bike. Which, with syncing via throttle stops (at idle) and correct fuel values at that break point results in an idle of 900rpm after start (cold engine) and a rock-steady 1000rpm at any temperature once warmed up. The Lambda I have choosen as target (and set) at idle is 0.92 and identical for both cylinders.

 

The results are worth the effort. And make BINs much more interchangeable between different bikes with the same set-up.

 

Cheers

Meinolf

[Gregg]

Has anyone played with a map for a V7 Racer yet - I am looking for a map to suit the 1st model release that has twin throttle bodies ?

[docc]

Has anyone played with a map for a V7 Racer yet - I am looking for a map to suit the 1st model release that has twin throttle bodies ?

Some ongoing discussion on V7 tuning:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18539&p=211386

[sign216]

Has anyone played with a map for a V7 Racer yet - I am looking for a map to suit the 1st model release that has twin throttle bodies ?

 

I just made a map for my 09 V7 (the "old" twin throttle body engine), but it's for the MyECU system and the map was created for the bike's 820cc big bore.   

 

Previously, I had knocking under acceleration right at 4k rpm.  This existed even with the stock pistons, and the big bore pistons worsened it. 

 

MyECU allowed me to adjust fueling and spark to correct the situation.  Also attached is the map I made.  It has spark retarded approx 9 points to prevent knocking (lesser amounts still had knocking), and injector duration is increased by 8% to account for the big bore cylinder.

 

I'm open to ideas, since I'm just beginning.

 

Edit:  the forum won't let me upload the file for some reason.  Message me and I'll send it to you.

[Gregg]

Hi Sign, The V7 I want to help the guy to remap does not have a MyECU system in it - I was hoping to find a map I could load using Guzzidiag into the existing ECU.

Thanks for the offer but I don't think it will help us with this bike as it is also bog standard.

[sign216]

Ok.  I also have the standard Breva map, before I altered it (should have said that in my first post).

If interested, let me know.  Good luck.