Chuck Posted November 8, 2016 Posted November 8, 2016 https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=9952156
docc Posted November 8, 2016 Author Posted November 8, 2016 On 11/8/2016 at 8:29 AM, Chuck said: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=9952156 I'm liking this solution. I suppose it is important to stay with the 30 amp rating?
Antiquar Posted November 8, 2016 Posted November 8, 2016 There's a 30 amp breaker in this series: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=33524 Before now, I never knew I wanted a circuit breaker under my seat.
docc Posted November 8, 2016 Author Posted November 8, 2016 There's a 30 amp breaker in this series: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=33524 Before now, I never knew I wanted a circuit breaker under my seat. Do these auto reset? Only once did this fuse "blow" on my Sport (because of a loose positive connection at the battery). Without charging, the bike eventually starting running rough, then the battery warning light came on (later V11 do not have these), then : roadside.
docc Posted November 8, 2016 Author Posted November 8, 2016 There's a 30 amp breaker in this series: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=33524 Before now, I never knew I wanted a circuit breaker under my seat. Do these auto reset? Only once did this fuse "blow" on my Sport (because of a loose positive connection at the battery). Without charging, the bike eventually starting running rough, then the battery warning light came on (later V11 do not have these), then : roadside. No, they just pop. Excellent. It's on the way. Thanks, gentlemen! Too cool: fixing my Sport with airplane parts! 1
Kiwi_Roy Posted November 8, 2016 Posted November 8, 2016 With all the connectors melting there must be some serious current spikes When I get a chance I will take some measurements with my oscilloscope You guys seem to have it covered with Marty's pink auto fuse Scuds 80 Amp red one Chucks aircraft breaker Did I miss any? It's all about Current squared x resistance I still have the OEM fuse holder in mine but I haven't checked it lately
docc Posted November 9, 2016 Author Posted November 9, 2016 With all the connectors melting there must be some serious current spikes When I get a chance I will take some measurements with my oscilloscope You guys seem to have it covered with Marty's pink auto fuse Scuds 80 Amp red one Chucks aircraft breaker Did I miss any? It's all about Current squared x resistance I still have the OEM fuse holder in mine but I haven't checked it lately No matter the circuit protection device, this seems to be all about the incoming connection. I figure the circuit breaker will reduce that connection from two to one, but may still suffer from this odd heating phenomenon. I really (really) thought I had this fixed. Too cool: fixing my Sport with airplane parts! Well, I fixed my Lario with an airplane engine.. 2016-05-13_04-15-39 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr The elusive, but oft alluded to, Guzzi "drone" motor? This is gonna take some 'splainin', Chuck! (Catch up with this story here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19687&p=214698 )
docc Posted November 15, 2016 Author Posted November 15, 2016 I have the 30 amp circuit breaker in hand. Once "popped" it is 3 inches / 7,5 cm long. Not sure how I'm going to mount it so it has clearance to "pop" and the terminals will be clear of any ground path. The terminals are labelled "LINE" and "LOAD." My understanding is that this sits between the regulator and the battery. Is the battery the "LOAD?" (It is definitely the regulator side that gets hot.)
Kiwi_Roy Posted November 15, 2016 Posted November 15, 2016 That big, It might be able to double as a kick stand. Line is usually the supply which is the alternator in this case but I doubt it matters at all.
docc Posted November 15, 2016 Author Posted November 15, 2016 So, this little green/red wire carries 30 amps from the alternator all the way to the battery? Seems dubiously undersized . . . perhaps it is 14 gauge just going by the notch on my strippers.
docc Posted November 15, 2016 Author Posted November 15, 2016 At this point, I am not a fan of "spade" connectors at all. It is worth servicing the bottom of the fuse box where four additional flat/ spade connectors are hidden below Fuses 1 and 2 (ECU and Fuel Injection/coils/fuel pump). The connector to my Fuel Pump/FI fuse was not tight at all. These are the only two fuses that have these extra connections. EDIT: These spade connectors gave me some fits attempting to restart. Two of them did not seat correctly after replacing the fuse block. Fuse One prevented the ECU and Fuel Injection relays from pulling in, then Fuse Two prevented the pump from running. Make sure these connectors are *well connected* if you're having these issues, but the ignition switch and lights are all on. 1
docc Posted November 15, 2016 Author Posted November 15, 2016 Having grown terribly tired of this connection melting and turning to charcoal, without ever opening the fuse, I am determined to get a solid connection: tinned 12 gauge wire soldered to the circuit breaker. 1
Kiwi_Roy Posted November 15, 2016 Posted November 15, 2016 What are the 3 bare terminals Docc? Your VII looks totally different under the seat than mine. HRN and the silver thingame? Sent from my shoe phone!
Chuck Posted November 15, 2016 Posted November 15, 2016 For what it's worth.. the FAA doesn't allow soldered terminals. The solder wicks up the wire and makes it brittle. It'll eventually break right at the terminal with vibration. Just the same.. I don't blame you for doing that. I'd be upset, too..
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