Sticking clutch?

[docc]

No, but if you need something modified, we can do that.

It's a matter of the actual dimensions. The larger diameter 6speed clutch pushrod has to to be *narrowed* to engage the "5speed" push button.

 

Well, that, and will it have to be re-hardened?

[footgoose]

the 6spd rod is 8mm. I have a spare 5spd clutch with "button" but no rod. The hole mics at 6.5mm but I used drill bits to find one that fits best. Of course I'm missing the perfect size but I'd guess 6.4-6.6 would work well. In my drill index I have a 6.39 (fits) and a 6.52 (won't fit)

[gstallons]

Can you locate metric drill bits ? SnapOn has them and I'm sure machine shop supply houses or GOOD automotive supply houses will have them .

[docc]

I am thinking the best dimensioning we could derive to adapt the 6speed pushrod to the 5speed push button is to measure the diameter of a 5speed pushrod: these look to be one diameter:

 

That must be a *known quantity* . . . along with the depth of the RAM push botton.

[Scud]

An alternative is to ream out the RAM's 5-speed clutch button to accommodate the 6-speed rod. If a machinist has both parts in-hand, they will know what to do.

 

Yet another alternative is to somehow get hold of a RAM 6-speed push button and replace the 5-speed. I think these are pressed into the RAM clutches.

[docc]

An alternative is to ream out the RAM's 5-speed clutch button to accommodate the 6-speed rod. If a machinist has both parts in-hand, they will know what to do.

 

Yet another alternative is to somehow get hold of a RAM 6-speed push button and replace the 5-speed. I think these are pressed into the RAM clutches.

#1: Enlarging any "push button" would best be done with an end mill, not a drill bit. My thinking: best left alone.

#2: One of the greatest things about the RAM unit is it comes complete, assembled, and balanced. Taking it apart (to change the push button) defeats those advantages.

 

After sorting through all the efforts, it seems time to derive a specification to modify the 6speed (hydraulic actuation) push rod -> 5speed clutch push button.

 

(craigsinclair got it really close:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=215047

"It is already machined down at the actuator end, and unmachined at the clutch end. The OD is 8.0mm except at the end where it's been machined down to 6.0mm. Placing the 8.0mm end into the original clutch and the 6.0mm end into the new clutch I get what feels like the same amount of play, but my calipers don't reach far enough down into the new clutch to actually measure the opening. The machined length of the actuator end is maybe 0.5mm longer than the depth of the hole on the new RAM clutch. I suspect that if I get it machined so that it's symmetrical it will fit in nicely."

[Scud]

I'm no machinist, but I do wonder if the push-button can be machined without being removed.

 

I have a spare input gear that came with my Ram clutch. Didn't use it because the one in Scura was still good. If you get this figured out I'd like a matching set for future use.

 

 

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[footgoose]

"craigsinclair" that is the post I've been looking for. Just to clarify, my reference to drill bits was meant for measuring the hole only.

[docc]

I'm no machinist, but I do wonder if the push-button can be machined without being removed.

 

I have a spare input gear that came with my Ram clutch. Didn't use it because the one in Scura was still good. If you get this figured out I'd like a matching set for future use.

 

 

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My understanding is that the 5speed input hub won't work on the V11 6speed because the gearbox input shaft has different splines. So, the input hub supplied with the RAM "5speed" complete clutch is incompatible with the V11 6speed. Must source MG RM/Tenni/early-Scura input hub.

 

Perhaps, the common 2-plate input hub could be "milled down", but we haven't gone there yet . . .

 

For now, let's get the dimensions to adapt the 6speed pushrod to the 5 speed push button . . .

[Scud]

Ha... this gets confusing, huh?  It'd be easier if we were sitting around a table with all the parts spread out - and if there was still some room on the table for 

 

I got one of the last 6-speed Ram Clutches, so my spare input gear is for a 6-speed.

[andy york]

looks like the one in my picture 

by the way ....what are ya'll drinkin down there?

If ya'll keep this up, I'll be needin some

[Tinus89]

I've posted this before. It's been on epay over a year. He only has 1 feedback, so who knows? It's the correct one.

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/NEW-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-Clutch-Gear-for-single-plate-clutch-GU01211640-/272216373516

 

There weren't washers on my oem flywheel bolts, and the RAM kit didn't include any. Nothing on the instructions either.

 

Soooo, That seller only has one feedback because here in the NL, there is not much use of Ebay. I know the guys is reliable and a real enthousiast. Why?

Because that's me

[luhbo]

...

 

I'm liking this idea of the low inertia RAM. It will take some getting use to, as the engine braking will be reduced. I eally like the fact that it is entirely assembled and balanced as delivered...

Docc, you can read me? Don't go this route. The standard V11 clutch assembly is already on the (lower) edge mass-wise. If you want to put some more dynamics into your ride then better invest in lighter wheels. These infact are too massy.

 

Engine braking will not be reduced, it will be increased. Pulse loads on the drive train won't be reduced, they'll be increased. Clutch problems wont be reduced - think you get the picture from here on. Idle won't be improved. Spare situation won't be improved....

 

Instead, IAEF, I'd investigate possibilities to switch to heavier LMIII assemblies for instance. Guzziology quotes a fast bike that uses an old Eldo clutch, that's maybe twice the weight of a V11 one. He seemed quite happy with it.

 

Or you just stick the parts together and have fun with your V11 as it is. Don't know why this option usually is so grossly underestimated.

[Tomchri]

Docc

I put in the original clutch, ended up paying around 750$ with the tools. Main point for me was an 8 hour drive, and then having all the parts I needed. Bike back on the road few hours later

Tom. Norway

[Scud]

 

...

 

I'm liking this idea of the low inertia RAM. It will take some getting use to, as the engine braking will be reduced. I eally like the fact that it is entirely assembled and balanced as delivered...

Docc, you can read me? Don't go this route. The standard V11 clutch assembly is already on the (lower) edge mass-wise. If you want to put some more dynamics into your ride then better invest in lighter wheels. These infact are too massy.

 

Engine braking will not be reduced, it will be increased. Pulse loads on the drive train won't be reduced, they'll be increased. Clutch problems wont be reduced - think you get the picture from here on. Idle won't be improved. Spare situation won't be improved....

 

Instead, IAEF, I'd investigate possibilities to switch to heavier LMIII assemblies for instance. Guzziology quotes a fast bike that uses an old Eldo clutch, that's maybe twice the weight of a V11 one. He seemed quite happy with it.

 

Or you just stick the parts together and have fun with your V11 as it is. Don't know why this option usually is so grossly underestimated.

 

 

Good point that last one. The problem was a loose input hub. Fasten it correctly and ride it. You would not have taken it apart just now if it wasn't for that problem. Maybe toss in some fresh clutch springs since you're there.

 

I rather like the RAM clutch, however. And they do make replacement friction plates that are the same for 5 and 6 speed clutches. Engine braking is a function of compression, not clutch mass. Clutch mass effects how quickly everything settles in. Lower mass gives you a quicker response to changes.