crankcase vent return line

[docc]

 

 

Diesel stinks for a long time.

 

 

Diesel smells good... even better than used gear oil.

 

Damning with faint praise there.. Scud.

 

Pathognomonic signs of having been under an F250 in an enclosed space for extended periods . . .

[Scud]

^ truth.

 

And the vent line on my Dana 50 TTB differential needs replacing... trying to get us back on topic...

[docc]

Since I am going to be replacing the leaking return line on my Sport, I ordered a new "reduction" from Harper's. Looks like it is coming from MGNA, ~$20US.

 

I am interested to see what drains out of the return line when I take it loose, and if I can get the frame flushed to some extent.

 

Those of you who remove your sump to change the filter, do you take this line loose? And: does it drain out a volume of nasty, oily fluid when you do?

[Scud]

That line enters the casting at level below where your oil lever should be - especially when on the sidestand. Therefore, what drips out of there is the same as what comes out the drain plug.

[docc]

That line enters the casting at level below where your oil lever should be - especially when on the sidestand. Therefore, what drips out of there is the same as what comes out the drain plug.

Eh, I suppose draining the sump also drains the return line and we would never know what, or how much comes out of it . . .

[docc]

So, here is the sump "reducer/reduction/adapter" (GU01161330) that connects the crankcase vent return line back to the sump on the early Sport before the V11 change to the double O-rings. Thread outside diameter looks to be 15mm.

 

I don't suppose I could install this without dressing that dinged-up tip and the shard of wire draping off the inside of the bore.

[Chuck]

Nice job of manufacturing.. 

[docc]

Seems I read somewhere that the practice of cadmium plating is driven more by corrosion resistance while on the shelf or in the parts bin, rather than be the actual solution for being in service. 

 

Looks like I may be bruising the plating trying to dress this up a bit.  

[czakky]

I had a couple flaking on the oil cooler side, replaced them all.

[68C]

Try not to over think this. Just give it a quick polish with fine wet and dry abrasive paper and fit it. Use some gasket sealant, such as Hylomar NOT SILICON, if you are really worried. Those marks really are minor. What is the worse that can happen?

[docc]

Try not to over think this. Just give it a quick polish with fine wet and dry abrasive paper and fit it. Use some gasket sealant, such as Hylomar NOT SILICON, if you are really worried. Those marks really are minor. What is the worse that can happen?

Worst? That little wire on the edge gets into the motor and does ugly. Sure, there is the screen and the filter, but I figure I'll clean it up first. The wet-paper dry is a good idea.

 

It is one of the last, annoying drips that I would like to see gone. In the meantime, it has been another great learning experience.

[gstallons]

Contact a hydraulic hose / fitting store ( Parker , Gates , etc. ) and ask them about tools to straighten up the mating surface . They may have something in stock . Take it w/you , they might do it for you for free & get rid of the burr in the bore of the fitting .  

 Also www.air-way.com sells fittings w/a replaceable o-ring if you or anyone else wants to do something different in the future ?

[docc]

I considered the double O-ring conversion (later model V11 change). 

 

Perhaps, I'll get that "reduction" as well and see how they compare.

 

Why not? This is no real failure. Just an odd drip I would like to be rid of.

 

Kinda like that *buzz* in the console of your car that want to stick a shim in.

[MartyNZ]

Seems I read somewhere that the practice of cadmium plating is driven more by corrosion resistance while on the shelf or in the parts bin, rather than be the actual solution for being in service. 

 

Looks like I may be bruising the plating trying to dress this up a bit.

I would pick that swarf out. Then if you are concerned about the dent, poke a rod (like a philips screwdriver) into the bore, then biff the rod with the fitting resting on soft wood to dress out some of the dent. You will need a hammer .The dent on the tip is not really important, as the sealing surface is further down on the bevel.

68C gave good advice above. 

The cadmium plating protection will remain despite any rework, unless you do some sanding/machining. That nice gold colour is actually a passivation treatment over the cad plating.

 

A friend once cad plated his Norton Commando brake disk because he didn't like rust on the cast iron. Obviously the pads quickly rubbed most of the plating off, but the disk didn't show any rust for years afterwards. Maybe some cad was smeared into pores of the cast iron, or maybe the remaining cad on the edges was enough to galvanically protect the iron. Cadmium plating is good stuff.

[docc]

In a curious development, Andy York displayed an image of some similar "gas spooge" (as he so apply calls it) under his LeMans. Some kind of slippery, yellow goop.

 

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https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20660&p=237368

"on a different note....I could swear mine was fuel injected but this sure looks like gas spooge "

 

 

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I thought, "Hey, that looks just like my nefarious spooge!"

 

After fuss-fitting the return line and sourcing replacement parts (not yet fitted), the spooge returned in the night, spontaneously, again. The return line looked dry while the tank vent looked wet, so I put a wee spooge bag over it and waited like a trapper baiting snipe.

 

And LO! Captured spooge! What the hell is this yuck?