measurements for the guzzi shop stand

[zoltan c]

I would like to make a homemade version of the guzzi factory stand, and save myself a couple of bucks in the process. If anyone who has the stand could take some measurements for me and post it here it would make things a little easier. I can get the materials for free or really cheap and I can fabricate and weld the whole thing at work.

 

Thanks.

[twhitaker]

I presume you are talking about the 'paddock stand' that acts as a center stand?

[guzzijack]

I would like to make a homemade version of the guzzi factory stand, and save myself a couple of bucks in the process.  If anyone who has the stand could take some measurements for me and post it here it would make things a little easier.  I can get the materials for free or really cheap and I can fabricate and weld the whole thing at work.

 

Thanks.

86493[/snapback]

 

Or are you talking about the engine/tranny stand as shown here

 

Guzzi Engine Stand

 

Graham

[twhitaker]

I must first say the stand I bought from MG Cycles is a bargain and a lot of thought went into it. I feel kind of like a traitor giving this information. There a number of ways this could be executed so I'll just give you the essentials.

 

Mine lifts up on the hex nuts just below the brake and shifter pedals. For the '02 LeMans (yours might be narrower) the distance between the uprights is 13 inches. The slots are 7/8 inches wide with a radius in the bottom. When the stand is in use the distance from the center of this 7/8 slot to the floor is 11 1/2 inches.

 

The stand has 2 1/2 inch diameter rollers that are 3/4 inch wide. With the stand upright it is in an overcenter condition. The lateral distance from the center of the slots to the center of the rollers is 4 inches.

 

They used 3/8 x 1 5/8 flat stock for the uprights which they joined using 2 lengths of 1 3/8 diameter tubing. One is concentric with the rollers and the other midway up the uprights. On one side they attached a lever that is angles out to clear the exhausts when levered backwards or the engine when levered forward.

[zoltan c]

Thanks for the info. No worries about giving away the measurements because I have seen commercially sold stands that also obviously copy the original guzzi paddock stand. I have a motorcycle/atv jack I may just make an attachment for it so I can put my V11 on there a little more securely. I guess some of the guys on this forum have not been too happy with the paddock stand, because of bikes falling off and other issues. I'll maybe try to improve on the current stand and make it more stable. (sounds like that may have to wait and turned into a winter project-riding season is finally here!)

 

Thanks for taking the time to answer my post, this forum is a great source of information.

[jrt]

I read this the other day at work- meant to come home and take some measurements for you....but I spaced out. Sorry 'bout that, but Twhitiker did a better job than I would have

 

If I might now chime in and make a suggestion- the paddock stand levers the bike up on two nuts just on the outside of the pork chops. The paint gets chewed up pretty badly, so I would suggest either lifting at some other point (underneath?) or more likely, change the radiused slots so you can use wood or rubber for a contact point.

[twhitaker]

If I might now chime in and make a suggestion- the paddock stand levers the bike up on two nuts just on the outside of the pork chops.  The paint gets chewed up pretty badly, so I would suggest either lifting at some other point (underneath?) or more likely, change the radiused slots so you can use wood or rubber for a contact point.

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Good point!

[zoltan c]

I read this the other day at work- meant to come home and take some measurements for you....but I spaced out.  Sorry 'bout that, but Twhitiker did a better job than I would have

 

If I might now chime in and make a suggestion- the paddock stand levers the bike up on two nuts just on the outside of the pork chops.  The paint gets chewed up pretty badly, so I would suggest either lifting at some other point (underneath?) or more likely, change the radiused slots so you can use wood or rubber for a contact point.

86927[/snapback]

 

I was thinking the same thing. I'll see what I can figure out. I have most of the materials I need already just have to find some wheels. I'll post a picture when it's done. I also thought about making the whole thing a little taller so that you could get the rear wheel completely off the ground. The flat bar that I have for the uprights are about 1 1/2" X 1/2". It should be a sturdy stand (maybe slightly over engineered, but hey I am a locomotive mechanic! ) Anyway we'll see how it turns out.

[Rusty Bucket]

I built my own stand too, after looking at the factory stand I thought I could do one as well, and address the faults I thought it had. I cut two 18mm sockets in half and use them as cushion blocks for the lifting/twisting, then made bolt down cap covers for them on the top of the stand, so they couldn't drop or get prised out. Works well, but would try the patience of a lot of people, as it is a bit longer process locking the lift points on. I made my main crosspiece a bit high, and had to notch it a little to clear the lines at the rear.

The wheels I used were metal framed polyurethane bogie wheels from Princess Auto. These are fantastic; they bear the weight well and make moving the bike around silent and very easy. They were $10 apiece. They use a huge 3/4" trunion, though, so if you wanted to use a more modest bolt you'd have to sleeve it up. Princess has lots of other choices, of course, but these ones work great.

I wold try and enclose a pic, but I am in Hawaii, and not back in Vancouver until next week. Good luck with the project, I like mine a lot.

[jrt]

Hawaii, eh? That has to suck

 

Here's another idea that might be a pain in the butt. What about making the stand a little wider, then welding some all-thread on a tube large enough to go around the nuts (ouch). Tap out the uprights on the stand, and thread them through.