sculler2x Posted January 7, 2015 Posted January 7, 2015 I ran a 4 gage wire from the battery negative to the starter motor mount bolt. This gives the best path for the high current when starting. I learned this on my BMW R100S and it makes a big improvement. I also ran an 8 gage wire from the regulator ground to the same starter motor bolt on top of the battery negative.
Welshguzzi Posted January 11, 2015 Author Posted January 11, 2015 The main earth leaves the battery and follows the tube of the seat subframe down to attach to the top right of the gearbox inboard of the seat latch release. That and the terminal stack directly on the battery are the primary grounds (earths). Adding one from the regulator case to the timing chest is a must. I ran mine to the spine frame and one from there to the engine. Others are more familiar with your regulator, but I recall one poster eliminated his 30 amp fuse and soldered the wires together. I ended up with a MAXI fuse in that location after repeated failures (charred, burned blades and melting, but not blown) of the standard ATC fuse, both in the factory fuse holder and in an external holder. The ground strap was already bolted to the engine, but I undid it and cleaned it up for peace of mind. I'm in the process of adding a 30A fuse between the reg/rec and battery, but just wondered about the best position for it to avoid road dirt etc. Should I worry about the wire being routed near any other electrics given that it's AC? Not sure how sensitive the DC components would be to this. I have a single fuse holder but the blade fuse, whilst it fits Ok, won't allow the splash proof cover to fit snugly so I need to locate a suitable one. Edit: is there any reason why I couldn't use the spare terminal in the main fuse box?
docc Posted January 11, 2015 Posted January 11, 2015 The closer to the battery your fuse, the more it will protect the loom; and be out of the weather. The blades in the factory fuse holder are ridiculously small. I spliced in a MAXI fuse after several failed attempts to fuse this circuit. No issues since.
Welshguzzi Posted January 11, 2015 Author Posted January 11, 2015 Sorry Docc, just to make sure I get this right - does this mean that the 30A fuse in the block is redundant and should I be splicing it into this circuit? Or is it okay to go between the positive terminal and the reg/rec?
docc Posted January 12, 2015 Posted January 12, 2015 Sorry Docc, just to make sure I get this right - does this mean that the 30A fuse in the block is redundant and should I be splicing it into this circuit? Or is it okay to go between the positive terminal and the reg/rec? I might be in over my head already. I simply replaced the 30 amp ATC fuse in the factory fuse block with the MAXI fuse in an external holder. I tried an external ATC holder but the fuse still melted or burned off its blades (without "blowing"). The contact area of the factory fuse holders is really small (much smaller than the fuse blades), especially for 30 amps. I believe that factory wiring does go straight (through the fuse) from the positive battery terminal to the regulator.
Welshguzzi Posted January 12, 2015 Author Posted January 12, 2015 Ok. That would make sense with the original reg but the Electrex is wired directly to the battery. The third wire from it goes to the charge light. This is the perimeter of my knowledge! !! (Now you can see what you're up against ;-) )
Kiwi_Roy Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 MikeDelta, The size is not very important since it's so short. I would use no less than 14 AWG or the equivalent of 20 Amps in metric size. If it's close you could always use a strap made of Al sheet-metal that way it would be Aluminium all the way and it might even look better. Don't forget to add some grease between the joints, that will extend it's life. Roy
MikeDelta Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 Thanks, I'll arrange that. Normally I grease the outer of the connections once in place not the two faces in direct contact. I undestand It was a mistake. MikeDelta
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 Re the ground strap. Perhaps instead of bolting a copper wire to the regulator then again copper to the engine. Why not use a strip of aluminum sheet metal, that way it would be aluminum to aluminum all the way. Add some grease where it makes contact. A 1/2 strip of 18 gauge would be plenty. Yes the idea of the grease is to exclude air and moisture, if it's between the contact points there's no room left. We used to use a special grease on Aluminum cables but I haven't seen that for a while, I just use Vaseline.
Scud Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 Topic: 30 Amp fuse Purpose: to confirm my understanding, and hopefully clarify for anyone else who might be confused Problem: the stock 30 amp fuse contacts are too small (which causes bad electrical things to happen). Therefore, they should be replaced with a manly-man fuse holder. This is not an additional fuse; it is a replacement. Solution: Remove red wire and pair of green wires that terminate at the 30 amp location in the fuse box (as shown removed in photo). Splice in the manly-man fuse holder and locate it nearby. Question: Is the above correct?
docc Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 Aye. Note the lap solder/heat shrink connections. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=148983 ("pre-solve" before bad things happen to good fuses!) 1
Scud Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Got the 30 amp Maxi fuse in today - and my fuse box looks like a hockey player's smile (missing tooth). I zipped the Maxi holder to the subframe rail so it can hang out in the large space inside the tail section (like the flasher relay does on the other side.) I noticed that these 30 amp Maxi fuses are rated up to 32 volts - so I guess this is not far off from simply soldering the wires together and bypassing the fuse. @Docc - thanks for the tip on the lap soldering. I also got the good heat shrink tubing with 3:1 shrink ratio and the adhesive.
docc Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Nice work! I did manage to blow one of these fuses by letting my positive terminal get loose. It was nearly impossible to see the break at the roadside, so I changed to the type that lights an LED when blown. Hopefully, I won't be seeing that little light!
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Those LED equipped fuses are a great idea especially since we never carry a multimeter If the fuse ever blows, don't toss it out, add a couple of wires and you have a handy dandy test light you can carry on the bike.
docc Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Those LED equipped fuses are a great idea especially since we never carry a multimeter If the fuse ever blows, don't toss it out, add a couple of wires and you have a handy dandy test light you can carry on the bike. The test light idea is brilliant! (Even though a small multi-meter lives in my left pannier, & test light in the tool roll. By the air compressor and tire plug kit) . . .
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