Parts Bike

[gstallons]

I think he said it is a Sachs & he put the original spring back on .

[Walterg]

I'm thinking about modifying my subframe or getting another one and change that so I'll still have my original subframe for safe keepings.

Do you still have the subframe ?

[Scud]

Shock is with RoxLemans now, who, incidentally, was also hoping to buy the bike when it was on Craigslist. The Sachs shock was near perfect - hardly even dirty. I listed a different, leftover shock for sale from my 2003 LeMans - that's the one that originally had the shorter spring and has not been treated very well. 

 

Subframe is straight, but the small bracket for the rear tank bolt was ripped out - forward. That means something hit the tank with enough force to push it forward and not only rip out the bolt, but also force the tank mount rubber bumper through the gas tank. Ouch. PM sent.

[Scud]

How about a little advice on the front wheel? I think the wheel itself is beyond repair. Picture below shows the worst of the damage - the crack is through to the inside of the rim, which is flattened and flared out a bit. There's another gouge on the other side of the rim and some marks from impact all the way into the center channel. The bearings make a little noise. 

 

However, Rox wants the rotors (which are excellent and will clean up well) and I want to remove them without discoloring them. Not having removed rotors like these before, here's what I think I know: they are in with the strongest thread-locker known to man.

 

Rox and I already tried leverage and mild heat (heat gun). I later tried an impact driver (the hammer kind). All I get is the allen-wrench stuck in the screw head - which means I am getting close to rounding out the screw head.

 

I'm concerned that a gas torch will permanently discolor the rotors (and that's what a shop would probably do). If the wheel has no value (as I suspect) I suppose I could drill out the screws. I have an air-powered impact wrench, but no impact allen sockets (willing to buy a set).

 

So.... what's a guy to do? How do you get these things off without discoloring the rotors (and for future reference - without destroying the screws)?

 

[Steve S]

Thanks Noble... I'll do that when I get a little more organized... and after I decide what to keep... and after everybody here has had a chance to get what they want. Since some parts are really hard to find, it just seems right to offer them up here first - to the, shall we say, "enthusiasts" from whom I've learned so much.

 

Meanwhile, let's have a quiz.  Does anybody recognize this rear bracket?  Perhaps for some type of saddle bags or top case? Moto Guzzi or aftermarket?

 

The tubed bracket is part of the Ventura rack fitting kit, do I get a prize?

[GuzziMoto]

I get those rotor bolts off by applying heat via a torch to the rim where they screw into. I do this from the side, typically from the other side of the rim. You don't need to, or even want to, apply the heat to the brake disk, but you can apply the heat to the bolt if you like. But I prefer applying the heat to the rim.

[Scud]

 

...let's have a quiz.  Does anybody recognize this rear bracket?  Perhaps for some type of saddle bags or top case? Moto Guzzi or aftermarket?

 

 

The tubed bracket is part of the Ventura rack fitting kit, do I get a prize?

 

 

You win a "like" and an a beer emoticon:    

You could also claim a guided V11 tour of San Diego back-country roads as your "prize."  Must be present to win...

 

I get those rotor bolts off by applying heat via a torch to the rim where they screw into. I do this from the side, typically from the other side of the rim. You don't need to, or even want to, apply the heat to the brake disk, but you can apply the heat to the bolt if you like. But I prefer applying the heat to the rim.

 

Thanks. That makes sense and I will try it soon - hopefully this evening or at least over the weekend.

[PDoz]

Re the disk bolts, do you have the ability to do a hot / cold cycle? Ie heat the rim, freeze the bolt, repeat a few times.

 

I just bring the liquid nitrogen chryotherapy gum home from work....but there are apparently vehicle versions ( or your chemist might sell liquid co2 wart sprays?) . I also hit the end of the bolt using a hammer / punch - the old mechanic I worked for believed it broke the rust. I mostly do it because it feels good. As an added bonus, you have a centrepoint to drill into if you get really angry with the bolt.

[docc]

All that and a Lisle Impact Tool!

 

Gives your hammer something constructive to do!

[gstallons]

Scud , since you are not worrying about getting the bolts out ( of the damaged wheel ) but the rotor off , you can use a drill bit as the same size of the hex of the capscrew . Drill down into the screw about 3/8''. Then take the tool and try removing the bolt . This will twist off the head of the bolt. Do this ( as long as it is successful ) to the remaining bolts . You will be able to lift the rotor off the wheel . 

[Scud]

I got the torch hooked up and did as GuzziMoto suggested (no discoloration or other paint damage). That worked for all but two bolts (probably the ones I weakened earlier). Drilled out those two as you described (low speed works best). Good practice for future. 

 

ROTO-LIBRE. The rotors have been liberated.  

[Scud]

I broke a few sub-assemblies into their final components today, including splitting the engine and transmission and getting a look at the dual-plate clutch and flywheel that was one of the main drivers for this project. 

 

An observation - just to reinforce what has been stated many times on this forum - there sure appeared to be a lot dry (un-greased) assembly. So many things I took apart had inadequate grease, or none at all:  swingarm pivots, shock mount bolts, shifter pivot, driveshaft, I could go on......... 

 

The frame has no value to me. But I noticed that these spine-frames are welded together in the center. The back half is in great condition (everything came off easily), and here is a closeup of the damage to the front. It hit so hard that the top and bottom of the steering head went oblong; the head-bearing races just fell out after I got the (bent) steering stem out.

 

If it has value to anyone (perhaps for some type of custom project), I'd gladly send it to you for the cost of shipping. If it's trash, please advise.

 

[Scud]

Update:

I've made 14 sales so far, and proceeds have been enough to put me at a break-even position with respect to cash, which means all the parts I intend to keep are "free" for my labor. I will keep parts that are easily worth over $1,000 to me - probably a lot more if I count up all the little things too.

 

I still have several boxes of stuff that I don't intend to keep. I'm holding the complete engine and transmission until I swap out the Scura clutch and determine whether the low oil-pressure in my LeMans is an actual problem or not. I might even practice painting the motor and tranny, since they have the bubbling 2002 paint and are already easily accessible. Whenever I get around to selling the motor and tranny, it will cover the Titanium Kit Racing Exhaust that I could not let Harper's keep for $1,000. 

 

Meanwhile, I thought I'd share the most important parts of this parting-out effort:

1. It's been fun to be able to find things to get other people's bikes back on the road, back to stock, or to help with their projects.
2. I am keeping a spreadsheet with my money invested and sales - and a separate PayPal account. This has helped tremendously with the "motorcycles" line-item in the family budget. FWIW - I don't actually have such a budget, but you get the idea... I can say - "Look at all these parts I sold... and look at the new parts that showed up... and it's all self-funded in my isolated PayPal account." So... if you're looking for a way to increase your "motorcycle budget", this has worked very well for me.
3. I am also parting out a 2000 BMW R1100RT, which so far netted enough to buy a K75s.

[Scud]

On the topic of "Spine Frames don't crash well"

 

I sent the transmission off to Bjorn, without cleaning it.

 

The bad news:  He and his mechanic discovered that one of the castings had cracked. Apparently some force of the impact transferred through the spine to the transmission mount, where the case cracked. 

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1725

 

The good news:  We were able to reconcile it and he was able to assemble one good transmission from his failed unit (bearing) and the one from this bike.

 

This is partly a heads-up. Look carefully if you are thinking of buying anything from a crashed bike. Now I need to inspect the engine block castings very closely... 

[docc]

I've had two cracked gearbox cases (one from a crash). I think it is notable that the center support from the bottom of the Spine Frame was eliminated in the V11 series making the rear-most mounting more vulnerable IMO. I added one back to mine, but it sure makes disassembly difficult . . .