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Posted

I decided to change the timing chain and tensioner, I purchased one from MG Cycle

When I pulled the old one out it's hard to see how the new one will fit in its place.

Can anyone please confirm if is right or wrong.

Thanks

Roy

CIMG4190s.jpg

 

Old one at the top

New one at the bottom

CIMG4193s.jpg

Posted

I decided to change the timing chain and tensioner, I purchased one from MG Cycle

When I pulled the old one out it's hard to see how the new one will fit in its place.

Can anyone please confirm if is right or wrong.

Thanks

Roy

CIMG4190s.jpg

 

Old one at the top

New one at the bottom

CIMG4193s.jpg

I was wondering about how that fitted too, so I held off getting one. Would be interested to hear the answer.

Andy

Posted

Fitted one in my Centauro engine. Fits w/o problems and works too as far as I can see. Not tested yet, but if they wouldn't work right, I dont think they'd be still up for sale.

Here's a pic (not mine btw)

IMG0300-L.jpg

Posted

Fitted one in my Centauro engine. Fits w/o problems and works too as far as I can see. Not tested yet, but if they wouldn't work right, I dont think they'd be still up for sale.

Here's a pic (not mine btw)

 

 

Thanks Jaap, :thumbsup: I was worried perhaps the tensioner was intended for a different engine.

 

On first sight the original looked OK but I was able to push it to the case and it would sometimes stay there.

 

All I have to do now is figure out how to get the nut off the crankshaft :rolleyes:

 

Update,

A 3/4" drive 32mm socket fits over the shaft. I ground a couple of flats on it and spun it off with a 12" Crescent wrench.

Wrap a couple of turns of masking tape over the shaft to protect it.

 

CIMG4194sx.jpg

 

What was I doing wrong there?

Posted

Fitted one in my Centauro engine. Fits w/o problems and works too as far as I can see. Not tested yet, but if they wouldn't work right, I dont think they'd be still up for sale.

Here's a pic (not mine btw)

You wouldn't think there was room if it wasn't there in technicolor!

 

I was thinking this would be a sensible mod for a road rider like me, but how does this compare to a timing gear set:, has anyone tried them? Spur vs straight cut, steel vs alloy etc etc.?

 

So many options... they're expensive but are they worth it to anyone not racing or outright performance hungry?

 

Andy

Posted

All back together.

No - I didn't jamb a brass drift in the chain to tighten the nuts, I did to remove them because I was replacing the chain anyway.

To tighten I put the bike in top gear and foot on the brake.

I can't believe how crude the OEM tensioner is compared to the one from MG Cycle.

Hopefully it will cure the sneeze

CIMG4200s.jpg

Because the original bolts are too long to simply screw back in without the bracket I hacked it off and scratched on a message for the next caretaker

 

Many thanks to Carl for pointing to the upgrade and Jaap for the picture of one installed

 

Roy

Posted

All back together....

 

Roy

 

Roy, what are your experiencies? Do you like the new tensioner? Everything as smooth as before?

 

Hubert

Posted

this change is worth every penny spent :thumbsup:

 

Why?

Is this an upgrade for all models or certain years?

Thanks

Posted

Yep. Fits for all big 2 valvers. It's cheaper than the original one, but I see definitely no need to open the engine just for exchanging a good tensioner with another one.

Hubert

Posted

Yep. Fits for all big 2 valvers. It's cheaper than the original one, but I see definitely no need to open the engine just for exchanging a good tensioner with another one.

Hubert

 

Agreed. The stock tensioner in the later models works fine and seems to last well. The Valtech 'Blade' type shown is IMHO a better device but care has to be taken when installing it. Make sure that the spring doesn't run across the timing cover screw boss or the cover will leak and be careful when installing the blade which is more easily done AFTER the chain and sprockets have been re-installed. The Valtecs *can* be noisy at first but it usually settles down within a few hundred kms.

 

Discussing timing gears always brings nutters out of the woodwork. Theoretically gears are a better option. In reality it is unlikely that on a road bike anybody would notice any benefit. If you do choose to go down this route though I strongly advise against any type of aluminium or aluminium/steel combination sets. I've just seen too many fail and refuse to install them. There are steel sets available, there is a bloke in the UK I think, who makes straight cut steel sets but the are very spendy. There used to be helically cut steel sets available too a long time ago. While the helix allows you to play very precisely with the timing it does impose an end thrust on the shafts so you can expect greater cam thrust piece wear than you get with a chain or straight cut gears.

 

Pete

Posted

All back together....

 

Roy

 

Roy, what are your experiencies? Do you like the new tensioner? Everything as smooth as before?

 

Hubert

I can't say I notice much difference, the new tensioner certainly looks like it's going to do a better job.

I know I will never have to do the chain again, and the oil pump gears look fine.

 

The bike runs really well but has an annoying habit of skipping a spark every few seconds at idle, I proved this with a timing light. I thought it may have been timing chain slop, so that's one more thing eliminated.

Posted

The bike runs really well but has an annoying habit of skipping a spark every few seconds at idle, I proved this with a timing light. I thought it may have been timing chain slop, so that's one more thing eliminated.

 

Roy, Have you pulled the coil wires from the coils to inspect? I had one all green and nasty with the contact corroded in two. It kind of rides in the weather there.

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