How to? ...replace the "pork chop" sideplates

[al_roethlisberger]

I know we've briefly discussed this in threads like "crabbing the spine frame", but I was thinking about replacing my side plates tomorrow(I had some new ones powder coated a few moths back), and wanted to check-in first to see if there are any catch-22s to be aware of.

 

I don't have any way to "hang" or support the frame from above, so I was going to support the front of the bike under the oil-pan with a flatbed lifting jack I have.

 

And I assume at that point, the only thing that will "fall off" once I remove one side plate at a time will be the swingarm. Can I just support it with a block of wood or similar under the tire and keep it "square" with no ill effects?

 

I planned to just take and replace one plate at a time.

 

Anyway, I just wanted to touch base for any tips in case anyone else had done this already.

 

al

[John O'Sullivan]

Al,

 

Be very careful taking off the rear swing arm axle pivots. These are held in place by the big nuts in the lower center of of the sideplates.

 

The repair/service manual states that you have to measure the length of pivot outside the sideplate before removal and replace to the same exact depth on each side. This is for the alingment of the rear wheel and you understand how that may effect handling.

 

I'd be inclined to remove the rear wheel and swing arm before changing the sideplates as the rear wheel/swing arm are heavy, if you do you can also grease that "Bloody" front grease zerk when you have the rear swing arm off.

 

You will probally get away with one sideplate at the time, have fun

[al_roethlisberger]

Well, although I had to abort the attempt to swap out the plates this afternoon because of the issue covered in this thread:

 

Sport1100 side plates use a smaller diameter swingarm pivot than the V11 plates

 

 

..... I can confirm that it is totally possible to change out the side plates in your own driveway, one at a time, without something catestrophic such as the bike "breaking in half" occuring

 

I supported the bike under the oil pan(with padding) using a flatbed lifting jack I had, while keeping the rear tire lightly on the ground. This kept the shock fully extended, but no real weight on the swingarm.

 

At that point I was able to carefully remove one plate, and reinstall it without any undue stress.

 

Once I get the swingarm pivot bolt issue resolved, I'll try this again.

 

al

[Guest Graham in NZ]

Does anyone know the recommended torque setting for the swinging arm pivot adjusting screws? I need to remove the swinging arm to replace the gearbox output shaft oil seal.

[callison]

I think the answer is no torque at all, just zero play.

[Guest Graham in NZ]

Thanks, callison

I was expecting something like BMW give for their 2-valve boxers; initial torque of 13 to 15 lb/ft to set the bearings, then back off and re-set to 6 to 9lb/ft.

Regards

Graham

[dlaing]

I love how helpful the Shop Manual is(NOT):

"Reassembly:

Carry out the disassembly procedures in reverse order."

 

FWIW I would do something between Carl's and BMW's instructions.

Maybe seat with 10lbs, backoff and torque to 5 foot pounds.

That is assuming that it is turning smoothly and that "finger tight" would leave you with zero free play and that you had not replaced the bearings which might require more torque to seat.

Anyone think that is too much torque? too little?

I remember my V65 used to flex alot while torquing the adjusters, and that 10 foot lbs would have been too much, but that swingarm was aluminum. I have not torqued our's down, which is probably chromoly steel and more rigid.

What is the torque spec for the lock nut?

[callison]

I have not torqued our's down, which is probably chromoly steel and more rigid.

What is the torque spec for the lock nut?

 

Dunno. Snug ought to be enough. It's only job is to keep the pin from rotating.