Ape Hangers for my V11 Sport

[kjaj97]

After checking the ergonomics of the Ballabio, I thought for my type of riding (and my less than limber back) I might prefer a more upright riding position than that provided by the stock V11 sport.

 

I was quoted $650 for the Moto Guzzi parts to complete the Ballabio conversion so I put the idea on the back burner until I found a good deal on a set of LSL L02 bars and Oberon long risers on ebay. After the successful transaction, I received the parts in the mail and checked the fit – about 3” to 4” up and about 3” to 4” back. This was a little higher than I wanted, but I had the parts so I plowed forward.

 

Here’s a summary of my project for anyone else considering a similar modification. I’m an amateur mechanic at best so follow these guidelines at your own risk. If anyone recognizes something I’ve done as excessively stupid or dangerous, please let me know and warn others not to do it.

 

1. I removed the headlight, gages and headlight bracket and discovered the control cable situation.

a. Starter, horn, turn signal wiring: all long enough – yes!

b. Clutch line: not close, even taking it outside of the headlight bracket – damn!

c. Brake line: routing behind the triple clamps has worked for others, but about an inch short for my application.

d. Throttle cable: long enough if routed behind the triple clamp. I notched the plastic cable shroud at the front of the fuel tank to avoid any sharp bends.

 

2. Two 25/64” holes are necessary for mounting the risers in the upper triple clamps. I thought for a moment about drilling these the while the clamp was installed on my bike… and then I figured out where I could find a drill press. It’s important to drill out the cast in bosses in the triple clamp accurately or your new bars will never be straight. The upper triple clamp was a bear to get off, until I lightly tapped a few flat head screwdrivers into the clamp slots to loosen them up.

 

3. I mounted the risers on the triple clamp using two 1/16” thick relatively stiff rubber washers. The first washer was cut to fill in the depressed area on the triple clamp and the second was cut to match the area of the bottom of riser. The washers allow a reasonably firm attachment to the triple clamp and most likely a slight vibration reduction. They could probably be omitted without problem.

 

4. For expediency, I elected to have custom hydraulic lines made.

a. I used Galfer components since that is what my dealer had.

b. The front brake could be a “T’ line similar to stock, a single line with a line connecting the calipers, or a dual line system. I used the dual line system due to its simplicity. There were still several issues:

i. My lines ended up being approximately 28” and 30.5” long – not including the banjo fittings.

ii. I used to one straight fitting and one 45 deg banjo fitting at the lever because parallel 45’s didn’t fit.

iii. I needed extra thick 10 mm crush washers from my local auto parts store because the Galfer double banjo bolt at the brake lever was a little long.

iv. I used longer lower headlight bracket mounting bolts with spacers and 3/8” electrical wiring clamps for the brake line guides – see pics.

c. The clutch line needed to be about 48” long not including the banjo fittings. The Galfer straight fitting (similar to stock at the slave cylinder end) did not fit (too short to bottom out and seal) so I substituted a 90 deg. Banjo fitting and used the stock front brake banjo bolt. By the way, the clutch cable is a pain to get off. The tank, airbox and shock reservoir all had to be removed.

d. It’s a good idea to leave the banjo fittings on the custom Galfer lines a little loose until they are in place. Once they are in place they can be tightened so the orientation is correct.

 

5. I drilled 3/16” holes for the starter and turn signal control module mounting tabs. Measure twice – drill once.

 

6. I reamed out the aluminum bars and tapped them with an 18mm tap so the stock bar ends would work. I had to remove the stock rubber pieces from the bar ends and replace these pieces with less thick tubing so the dampers would slide into the new bars.

 

I’ve only ridden about sixty miles with the new bars, so I have not finalized my opinion on the new ergonomics. The riding position is similar to a ZX1200 or a Bandit 1200 - very comfortable. Almost comfortable enough to make my bike feel slower, well maybe not slower but certainly less racy. I’m going to ride a couple hundred more miles before I do anything, but I may change to the LSL L01 bars with slightly less rise and pull back.

 

Then again, the low speed control is improved and if one is inclined toward any hooligan type antics the new set up is ideal with its more dirtbike type layout. After a little acclimation, I may really like the new set up.

[jrt]

Hey, nice work! This should be added to the 'adapting bars' section as well- just to consolidate all this info.

Very nice kjaj! Thanks for providing the new lengths of line.

 

Just one question, though....

 

 

Do you often ride in your stocking feet?

 

Cheers,

Jason

[Admin Jaap]

Nice posting!

 

I've put a link to this thread in the Handlebar riser FAQ

[kjaj97]

Hey, nice work!  This should be added to the 'adapting bars' section as well- just to consolidate all this info.

Very nice kjaj!  Thanks for providing the new lengths of line.

 

Just one question, though....

Do you often ride in your stocking feet?

 

Cheers,

Jason

41657[/snapback]

 

Jason,

 

The use of lightweight aerodynamic foot coverings is often overlooked by performance enthusiasts. I find the 3-4 tenths gained in my commute well worth the slight discomfort and safety compromises.

[gallo_se]

Very very nice, I think it is the same solution that Ian adopted, I wonder if it fits under the fairing of the V11 Le Mans. What kind of handlebar did you use? a motorcross like?

[jimbemotumbo]

Now I know what to do with the extra 16" apes I took off my Road King.

 

I'll have one smoooooth V11s

[Guest Ken Bruce]

After checking the ergonomics of the Ballabio, I thought for my type of riding (and my less than limber back) I might prefer a more upright riding position than that provided by the stock V11 sport.

 

I was quoted $650 for the Moto Guzzi parts to complete the Ballabio conversion so I put the idea on the back burner until I found a good deal on a set of LSL L02 bars and Oberon long risers on ebay.  After the successful transaction, I received the parts in the mail and checked the fit – about 3” to 4” up and about 3” to 4” back.  This was a little higher than I wanted, but I had the parts so I plowed forward.

 

Here’s a summary of my project for anyone else considering a similar modification.  I’m an amateur mechanic at best so follow these guidelines at your own risk.  If anyone recognizes something I’ve done as excessively stupid or dangerous, please let me know and warn others not to do it.

 

1.  I removed the headlight, gages and headlight bracket and discovered the control cable situation.

  a.  Starter, horn, turn signal wiring: all long enough – yes!

  b. Clutch line: not close, even taking it outside of the headlight bracket – damn!

  c. Brake line: routing behind the triple clamps has worked for others, but about an inch short for my application.

  d. Throttle cable:  long enough if routed behind the triple clamp.  I notched the plastic cable shroud at the front of the fuel tank to avoid any sharp bends.

 

2. Two 25/64” holes are necessary for mounting the risers in the upper triple clamps.  I thought for a moment about drilling these the while the clamp was installed on my bike… and then I figured out where I could find a drill press.  It’s important to drill out the cast in bosses in the triple clamp accurately or your new bars will never be straight.  The upper triple clamp was a bear to get off, until I lightly tapped a few flat head screwdrivers into the clamp slots to loosen them up.

 

3.  I mounted the risers on the triple clamp using two 1/16” thick relatively stiff rubber washers. The first washer was cut to fill in the depressed area on the triple clamp and the second was cut to match the area of the bottom of riser.  The washers allow a reasonably firm attachment to the triple clamp and most likely a slight vibration reduction.  They could probably be omitted without problem.

 

4. For expediency, I elected to have custom hydraulic lines made. 

  a.  I used Galfer components since that is what my dealer had.

  b. The front brake could be a “T’ line similar to stock, a single line with a line connecting the calipers, or a dual line system.  I used the dual line system due to its simplicity.  There were still several issues:

    i. My lines ended up being approximately 28” and 30.5” long – not including the banjo fittings.

    ii. I used to one straight fitting and one 45 deg banjo fitting at the lever because parallel 45’s didn’t fit.

    iii. I needed extra thick 10 mm crush washers from my local auto parts store because the Galfer double banjo bolt at the brake lever was a little long.

    iv. I used longer lower headlight bracket mounting bolts with spacers and 3/8” electrical wiring clamps for the brake line guides – see pics.

  c. The clutch line needed to be about 48” long not including the banjo fittings.  The Galfer straight fitting (similar to stock at the slave cylinder end) did not fit (too short to bottom out and seal) so I substituted a 90 deg. Banjo fitting and used the stock front brake banjo bolt.  By the way, the clutch cable is a pain to get off.  The tank, airbox and shock reservoir all had to be removed.

  d. It’s a good idea to leave the banjo fittings on the custom Galfer lines a little loose until they are in place.  Once they are in place they can be tightened so the orientation is correct.

 

5.  I drilled 3/16” holes for the starter and turn signal control module mounting tabs.  Measure twice – drill once.

 

6.  I reamed out the aluminum bars and tapped them with an 18mm tap so the stock bar ends would work.  I had to remove the stock rubber pieces from the bar ends and replace these pieces with less thick tubing so the dampers would slide into the new bars.

 

I’ve only ridden about sixty miles with the new bars, so I have not finalized my opinion on the new ergonomics.  The riding position is similar to a ZX1200 or a Bandit 1200 - very comfortable.  Almost comfortable enough to make my bike feel slower, well maybe not slower but certainly less racy.  I’m going to ride a couple hundred more miles before I do anything, but I may change to the LSL L01 bars with slightly less rise and pull back. 

 

Then again, the low speed control is improved and if one is inclined toward any hooligan type antics the new set up is ideal with its more dirtbike type layout. After a little acclimation, I may really like the new set up.

41638[/snapback]

 

completely with you on this one.. when i bought the guzzi i knew what i needed to do - i fitted even higher bars but its transformed the bike for me - completely comfi and very usable. I used to have a Convert years back and knew what it was supposed to be like! I didn't drill the plate tho so didn't need to take the top yolk off - i bought raisers thatt fitted onver the top of the fork legs just like the originals did. there's a picture posted on another string about raising the bars etc..