V11 rear brake pad change?

[Guest moreteavicar?]

Hi All - -or should that be Buongiorno!

 

Took proud possession of a 2003 V11 Sport last night and fulfilled a childhood dream of owning a Moto Guzzi.

I start with a question – please can someone tell me if there is anything unusual I need to be aware of when replacing the rear brake pads?

Thanks very much

Nick

[Guest Nogbad]

Hi All - -or should that be Buongiorno!

 

Took proud possession of a 2003 V11 Sport last night and fulfilled a childhood dream of owning a Moto Guzzi.

I start with a question – please can someone tell me if there is anything unusual I need to be aware of when replacing the rear brake pads?

Thanks very much

Nick

 

Its a simple and straightforward job. The rear caliper tends to accumulate road crud and is prone to seizure and dragging. Give everything a really good clean with some spray brake cleaner. I use "Ankademanka" which you can get in most bike dealers. Make sure all the crud is out and then reassemble the new pads using a smear of brake grease on the back of the pads and on the pins and anti rattle spring. I mean a light smear though!

[Guest ratchethack]

Nick, I would add a couple of things to Nog's suggestions.

 

Because the bleed nipple on the caliper is upside-down , there's an inherent problem bleeding the rear brake. This is an optimum time to bleed it throroughly, which will eliminate a lot of the known problems here that are compounded by the problems Nog mentioned.

 

If you remove the caliper from the bike, a thorough cleaning of the inside of the caliper is possible. I suggest dunking the caliper (still attached by the brake line!) in y'er favorite solvent for a thorough brush-out, including the deeply embedded brake dust and road grit that will've accumulated in the groove between the brake pistons and caliper, above the seals. The pistons can safely be extended SLIGHTLY for complete removal of the offending caked-on crud. DO NOT extend them too far!

 

After this, you can properly bleed the caliper with the bleed nipple facing UP! Several here, including me, have found that an amazing amount of trapped air will be released while bleeding if you tap the caliper with a soft-faced mallet or small block while tipping the caliper slightly from side to side.

 

Properly maintained this way with every tire change, you shouldn't have a trace of the rear-brake problems often complained about here.

 

Have fun!

[jrt]

The pistons can safely be extended SLIGHTLY for complete removal of the offending caked-on crud. DO NOT extend them too far!

A thin piece of plywood or metal in between the pads works pretty well.

[Martin Barrett]

Depending on how well its been cared for in its past and under what conditions it has been riden. You may also wish to grease the pivot of the brake pedal. There is no return spring and relys on the fluid presure to return. Mine seized I would blame the previous owner except I had it from new. Having done this I got a 5% improvement in fuel consumption and my pads might last a bit longer.

[soloNH]

Great timing as I have just replaced pads all around and have a couple of questions.

 

1. I have Brembo brakes, bought Ferodo? pads. Inside the package for the rears I found a couple of small "buttons" that look like little top hats with a thick brim. Don't see where they could go as I didn't find any when I cleaned the caliper and reinstalled the pads. everything went smoothly.

 

Are these for another application or did I miss something?

 

2. Any truth to "setting in" new brake pads? Should I go blindly down the road at blistering speeds and worry about it later?

 

Enquiring minds want to know.

 

[Guest ratchethack]

1. I don't b'lieve y'er missin' anything, SoloNH. Ferodo Platinum is my choice and I've gone thru lots of 'em, got my next set in my hand. It's got the same thing. Some application somewhere uses some kind of rivets maybe to hold a locating spring for installation? that we don't have.

 

2. New pads take awhile to work in. I wouldn't charge down steep mountain grades after having installed them at the top , but they take a set pretty quickly and are fine IMHO after a few days.

[Bill Hagan]

OK, I have avoided posting this. I vainly hoped someone else would chime in and ask the "too dumb to be real" question. Rats. I gotta do it. Here goes.

 

I can't get the #$%^&* pads out of the rear brake assembly.

 

See http://tinyurl.com/hgw7b

 

How do I remove the pads?

 

I had assumed one "merely" depressed what appears to be a tension spring holding the pin in place. Hmmmmm. I need more, smaller, stronger hands and fingers ... or some mystery tool beyond the various delicate devices I've been using, e.g., pliars, hammers, with cursing assists, of course.

 

Help. I wannabe

[belfastguzzi]

OK, I have avoided posting this. I vainly hoped someone else would chime in and ask the "too dumb to be real" question. Rats. I gotta do it. Here goes.

 

I can't get the #$%^&* pads out of the rear brake assembly.

 

See http://tinyurl.com/hgw7b

 

How do I remove the pads?

 

I had assumed one "merely" depressed what appears to be a tension spring holding the pin in place. Hmmmmm. I need more, smaller, stronger hands and fingers ... or some mystery tool beyond the various delicate devices I've been using, e.g., pliars, hammers, with cursing assists, of course.

 

Help. I wannabe

Oh Bill, how embarrassing! I don't think that an answer should be given until you have posted a video of youself struggling manfully with the devilish device, using every implement and utensil available in Garage Maholo and in your kitchen drawers.

[belfastguzzi]

Ok, but just because I post this, doesn't mean that I still don't want to see the video. It sounds like the pin just needs some persuassion. It's possibly stuck with dirt and maybe a bit of corrossion, though I think that you are probably just being 'too careful'. Try tapping everything with a hammer to break the pin free. Well, not everything: tap the pin and the metal lugs of the pads and the caliper body. Give it a good wash and brush. If it's still stuck, carefully apply some solvent / penetrating fluid / lubricant whatever comes to hand. Tap again. Pry carefully against the brake pad lugs with a screwdriver to get some movement. Get a bigger hammer.

Use a piece of steel rod, a blunt 4" or 6" nail, or something like that, to target your delicate but increasingly desperate hammer blows.

You could try shooting it out?

[belfastguzzi]

The 'secret' probably is that it needs to be tapped out from behind, rather than pulled out from the 'front'.

It's really too difficult to pull it out with pliers. Unless you're a dentist.

 

It may help to depress the 'spring' at the same time. I can't remember if that is necessary or not. I doubt it, but it could help.

[Bill Hagan]

The 'secret' probably is that it needs to be tapped out from behind, rather than pulled out from the 'front'.

It's really too difficult to pull it out with pliers. Unless you're a dentist.

 

It may help to depress the 'spring' at the same time. I can't remember if that is necessary or not. I doubt it, but it could help.

 

Thank you. I'll see if Kathi is willing to video this tonight. I'll make sure the sound is on.

[belfastguzzi]

...I'll see if Kathi is willing to video... tonight.

Hey hold on! I only wanted to see your contortions with the brake caliper – not that other stuff!! Phew!

[belfastguzzi]

Well, I'm pretty sure that you won't be satisfied unless you get to use a special tool. So I found this:

 

It is an enclosed electromechanical device that delivers discrete impacts to dislodge dry material from the sides of hoppers, bins, and bunkers. It runs on 110 volts ac and includes a controller. The operator can set the intensity of a strike from 1 to 25 lbs.-ft., as well as set duration and operating intervals. It is timed to give three raps per second.

 

I believe that it could be adapted for your purpose.

[Bill Hagan]

Well, I'm pretty sure that you won't be satisfied unless you get to use a special tool. So I found this:

 

It is an enclosed electromechanical device that delivers discrete impacts to dislodge dry material from the sides of hoppers, bins, and bunkers. It runs on 110 volts ac and includes a controller. The operator can set the intensity of a strike from 1 to 25 lbs.-ft., as well as set duration and operating intervals. It is timed to give three raps per second.

 

I believe that it could be adapted for your purpose.

 

Sweet Jesus! Kathi doesn't like ... uhm ... aids.

 

But, you will no doubt be pleased to know that with the help of yours and others' posts, I took a punch and beat the crap ... no, gently dislodged the offending pin. 'Course, did manage to learn lots about hydraulics and power of pistons 'cuz I let the wood block drop out while I cursed and tapped.

 

OTOH, all in place and working well, now.

 

Many thanks. I might get it ready in time to take it to Erie over Labor Day.

 

Bill