Scud

For the dirt (Husky 501 same as you) I carry a tool belt that I've outfitted with lightweight tools. Even though I run the Tubliss setup front and rear. I carry the Airmoto pump in the backpack now, since it has 4 pre-set pressures, I have one at set over 100 psi for the small tube and one for about 15, which the max I would run for the knobbies. The pump is less space and wieght than carrying a front tube. I still carry the tire irons, since they also have the axle nuts on one end. Sometimes, on a longer ADV bike trip, I will put the dirt-bike tool kit in a saddle bag, since it has tape, wire, sockets with T-handle, zip ties, knife, pliers, etc.

I carry kits in the cars, but I have gotten silly with too many bikes, and do not have a kit for each one. So I don't do a good job of swapping the kits between the bikes - and am therefore unlikely to have the kit when I need it. And as I write this, I realize how dumb/cheap I am. If I can afford multiple bikes, I can afford multiple repair kits. I really like the airmoto pump. Just went to Amazon and it is on sale (28% discount) today. Add to cart...

^wow, that was 10 years ago...

I also skipped through the video. For me, the Brutale is either at or near the bottom of the list of the most desirable MV models. I'm sure the craftsmanship is impeccable, but if this "motorcycle art" then it's sort of a post-modern cubist thing. So not my style. I love the look of the original F4 with the round pipes. And I did fancy the Superveloce 800, but not enough to buy one. Maybe a 750 F4 will scratch the MV itch for me one day?

I do like the looks of that R12S. If there were a new LeMans, there would be an interesting comparison. I took a strong look (nearly bought) an MV Augusta Superveloce. The BMW is a "bargain" compared to that.

Picking up on the swingarm bearings... I have replaced two sets of those, and they were sealed bearings. I didn't think they could be opened up, cleaned and re-packed. And these are double-row (extra thick) bearings, so I'd be surprised if you could service both rows. But I'm open to learning if this can be done. If you decide to replace them: Removal... an electric heat gun is useless here. You will need a proper torch and a heavy slide hammer with the swingarm well secured. You can probably borrow/rent a slide hammer from an auto parts store (especially if you buy a pair of bearings from them). And for putting them back in - freeze the bearings (in a zip lock bag to prevent moisture from getting in), heat the swingarm with the aforementioned torch. Grease it all up, and pound them in with a proper bearing installation tool - or just take it to a machine shop and have them pressed in.

The exhaust gaskets compress so much that they appear like a machined ridge. I once thought there were no gaskets on a bike of mine, then was able to remove them. As for rubber bits, like the boot for the rear master cylinder, you might have to find out what other bikes used the same master in order to find a part. There are many documented examples in a thread called "Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts" and if you find something not previously documented, please share for the community.

I suspect Sardarov bought it back for less then he sold it. This often happens with business acquisitions that aren't done well. It's a shame too, because I liked the brands that were coming together under Pierer Group. Someday I might have an MV Agusta. I seriously considered getting a Superveloce S about a year ago. I'll be watching closely...

Leave the silver side plates in place. To remove the swingarm, you first disconnect the shock, then remove the large chrome nuts (30mm IIRC). Then, with the swingarm supported, you can back the pins out with a hex wrench. The spacer looks like the one that goes on the rear axle, between the rear wheel bearing and the drive box. It sometimes falls out unexpectedly when you remove the rear wheel. Totally normal.

Since you're in this deep, it's a good time pull the swingarm, which will make it even easier to install the above bleeder hose. Be sure to carefully inspect the shock mounts. Many of us have found cracks in the lower shock mount. Even if it's not cracked, upgrading that shock will make a big difference in handling - if that's in scope/budget for this project.

I just started watching the TV Series The Blacklist. In the first season, one of the bad guys used mass transit "accidents" for assassinations. The world is crazy enough these days that what used to feel like the "tin foil hat zone" has to at least be considered. This ought to be enough to start a proper thread drift....

Fun times ahead... Is this the red/grey or the champagne LeMans? She looks like a candidate for a thorough clean/inspect process. Although it is low-mileage, since it's been neglected, I'd check every bearing, hose, and electrical connection - replacing things liberally if in doubt. And don't forget to clean those brake calipers and make sure all the pistons move freely.

Being the curious sort, I went to measure. If I measure from the outer tread blocks horizontally, the diameter is only about 32". However, the tread is curved and the center of the tread bulges almost 1/2" per side. I don't have a proper caliper to measure the maximum diameter, but If you were to measure the diameter at the center of the tread, I think the expected 32.8" measurement is realistic.

@GuzziMoto I wasn't aware of the undersize issue, so can't help with your question. I didn't measure the physical tires. I used a tire size calculator and also the advice of technician at Discount Tire store. I went from 275/60R20 to 285/70R17.

I got a set of 3-peak-snowflake rated tires for my F150. The truck had 20 inch wheels with short sidewalls, and I got a set of 17 inch wheels and the BF Goodrich KO3s that were almost same size as stock (10mm wider but same height). They are much better on snow and ice than the stock tires. They are a bit noisier, and probably a tad less fuel-efficient. But they are safer and more versatile, as they are also really good for traction on dry dirt and rocks. I did quite a bit of research on pure snow tires, vs the 3-peak rated all-terrains, vs those simply rated M&S. The snow tires performed best in snow, as you would expect. But the 3-peak were good enough for a conservative driver with 4WD. And the 3-peak significantly outperformed the M&S rated tires. So the 3-peak, at least for my needs, was the clear winner in terms of safety + versatility. They enabled me to have just one set of tires I could confidently use year-round in desert, snow, highway, around-town, etc. Plus they look tougher and more rugged than the stock tires.