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I went up to Carizzo Plain National Monument for the superbloom. After heavy rains, this valley is carpeted in flowers. Pictures can't do it justice... this goes on for about 50 miles by 30 miles wide. Now I am planning a ride to Utah on Stelvio, with as little freeway as possible. I have work there next Monday, so will take next weekend to go via Joshua Tree, Mojave National Preserve, Lake Mead, and few other minor roads into Southern Utah. The plan is to camp somewhere in Southern Utah, then take the amazing route 12 to Capitol Reef National Park. I'm having fun getting the Stelvio set up for solo-camping.

gman , you should spell out some of the #s of you phone # . [docc/edit: I thought that smart, so performed the task for gatorman whose name has already been "changed to protect the innocent!"]

Hi, setting the TPS baseline is the first step. Remember, all connections to the throttle must be removed before adjusting the voltage. The valve play should be at least 0.2mm for Intake/Exhaust. 0,3mm is my recommendation, the V11 camshaft has very! long ramp-up slope, >100°. The standard setting will result in sligthly opened valves in that area, resulting in mean pressure loss and decreased valve cooling. Once this is done sync the throttles in idle, try to keep the bypass screws completetely closed and do the sync with the throttle stop screws. CO trim should be set to 0 initially and only be changed if you have no means of actually measuring AFR. GuzziDiag always works, but a KKL adapter with an original FTDI chip is needed. There a lot of counterfeit chips in the market, they will mostly not work. Cheers Meinolf

Hi, that's an easy one. https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm Cheers Meinolf

Those relays look OK. 30 amps is plenty of capacity. It would be worth getting a set if you have trouble geting Omrons. Try them and report back. That is what this forum is great for. One of the relays needs to be a 5 pin SPDT (also called SPCO) in a V11, and the rest can be 4 pin SPST. The relay sockets can take 5 pin relays in all positions, so you should forget the 4 pin relays. When you have a set of 5 pin relays you can swap then around on the side of the road when things on the bike go quiet or dark. Some people call this swapping relays trick "troubleshooting" but when it is getting dark and rain is threatening, the troubleshooting can look more like "wild flailing" to an observer. Just say to yourself "at least it isn't a Harley". Seriously though, as Docc said, the Omrons work well, and the relay base repair suggested by Kiwi_Roy solved a problem on my bike. After tightning all the spade connectors in the relay bases (a really fiddly job) some intermittent problems disappeared. I put dielectric grease on all the sockets before I put the relays back. Then I put some foam tape between the relays, thinking that it would reduce the movement of the relays in their sockets.

What about the ignition pickup/pickup gap? Ciao

Relay selection developed into a long investigation with a promising outcome. The "Best Relay" thread specifies the OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 High Current relay. I've seen all kinds of attempts to use something lesser, but why? No question tachometer issues along with running issues commonly = Relay#2. Relay#5 (the back one) is the other high current position, but replacing the entire set is a good idea. There can also be issues with the connections in the relay bases. I like to use an electronics cleaner and Caig DeOxit®. Kiwi_Roy gave us a whole tutorial on servicing loose relay bases: Relay Base Repair

Thanks for the heads up on the broken link. I'll try and get those restored. Running issues combined with tachometer misbehavior point to Relay #2. A complete upgrade to the Best Relays is likely in order. Best Relay