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The very last thing you want to do is ditch the EFI. People that do this on a big twin esp, are delusional believe me. Ciao

Its probably not an issue anymore docc as I dont think RAM make the flywheel sensor kit anymore. MG cyxle still denote the latest kit for bikes without flywheel pickup so carbed bike owners dont buy them or know they must modify them I guess. They were for the carbed bikes I now realize but I think they would still fit the V11 anyway. Note the 4 plated cap screws on the periphery of the flywheel for the flywheel ignition pickup equipped bikes. If they caused an interference issue on a V11 you could just remove them. Ciao

...said in the voice of Obi Wan Kenobi Thank you docc! This was a lightbulb (pun intended?) moment! Looking at the parts fiche really helps to make sense of it, and now the wiring diagram is clearer too. It seems like there are only a few wires feeding the entire EFI+ignition system, basically the ones coming out of two relays... Maybe one or two other stragglers, but at first glance it seems like that might be all it would take to move it over to the m-unit. Very encouraging stuff. Almost tempted to get started on it right now!

There is so much electro-spaghetti throughout the V11, it isn't obvious looking at it on the bike, but look at the parts "fiche" and the two are clearly separate: Page 10: "Electrical System" Page 38: "Ignition Electrical System" From having been fairly deep into these harnesses, it looks to me that the "Ignition" harness was installed on the production line early and the more extensive "Rest of the Wiring" harness installed over it.

Phil, and Pete It's my pleasure to help you guys out. My appreciation goes to you and the many others on this forum who go out of their way often to help and share their expertise.

You got it docc. except add 5 speed NON FLYWHEEL SENSOR kit. Also the latest RAM single plate unit has a steel flywheel as opposed to the aluminium unit and is around 1 kg heavier than the original alloy one. This is if my memory serves me from a post by scud I think. There was also nothing wrong with the RAM alloy flywheel as opposed to the Guzzi alloy unit which had a habit of failing. My Dayton engine has a RAM alloy clutch with a plate that Pete Roper recons has a fairly short life. I'm a bit of a nanny with clutches so I guess we'll see how it goes. Ciao

Reviving this thread, because I'm getting the (masochistic) itch to re-wire my bike again... Wondering if anyone out there has taken the leap, especially curious about completely ditching the stock harness are re-wiring from scratch using the m-unit. I rewired a 1973 Honda CB350 last winter with an m-unit and it was an absolute pleasure. The bike is so much cleaner now, and the confidence level knowing the thing is actually reliable is the best part. The only thing making me hesitate is the complication of the ECU and ignition system, with all the sensors, fuel pump, injectors etc etc. Not very straightforward... Unless I get some good guidance, my strategy would be to just go for it and try to figure it out component by component. And if that fails, to rip out the ECU and throttle bodies and install an Elektronik-Sachse ignition and a pair of Keihin FCRs and just be done with the EFI system. I do want to give it a shot though. Wouldn't be happening until the winter anyway, but thought I'd reach out and see if anyone else had done it, start the discussion. I am aware that I am opening myself up to severe flaming, but I'm ok with that.

Do not see how changing to timing gears can help smooth running, unless of course the timing was way off before. These occasional coughs seem to affect fuel injection more than carb bikes. I feel it is likely to be due to running at the edge of a fuel map cell. A light change in rpm, throttle etc may make it jump one way or the other, rich or lean, and so be momentarily wrong at that instance. Our ECU's don't have many cells so the 'jump' is more noticeable than on modern bikes. A carburetter is an analogue device so the fuel metering has an infinite solution to supply fuel at the correct mixture. Fuel injection is digital of course and so moves in a series of steps, the cheaper the system the larger the steps. Just my opinion of course.

Less inertia in a gear system. Gears are just "cleaner", no tensioner, no chain wizzing around changing direction and wearing out. A quality cam gear drive will outlast the engine easily, give more accurate timing and make your shirts whiter than white. A chains major benefit is its cheap and easy to manufacture, its quieter, its easier to adapt to a design than a gear driven system. There's a reason the vast majority of manufactures dont use gear driven cams......its just to damn expensive and when we are living in a world where the modern engine designer even eliminates key ways cut into cam drive sprockets cams and cranks to save a machining operation and the cost of a key whats the chances of them making bespoke cam gears. Ciao

Don't forget to let us all know when you finally put them on Ebay.