Leaderboard

I thought we decided that gears were better for motorcycles and chains were only for Phil’s bedroom activities....?

You are aware I'm sure but, you'll want to take note of flywheel position as you remove it. Reason being, the crank position mark may be hard to see or gone altogether. The marks on your new clutch may not be the same "font" (?) or characters... but will be in the same positions as the stocker. Just note which one's up, and duplicate it with the new one.

It seems entirely plausible the Neanderthal gene may be over represented in the Moto Guzzi population . . .

I did the 23andMe DNA test and it mostly confirmed stuff I knew, because my family had kept good records going back to people who came to the US from England in the 1600s. But the big (and fun) surprise was that my quantity of Neanderthal DNA markers is in the top 2% of all people tested. I am totally using this as an excuse to go to the mountains any time I want. It's in my nature... have to get back to my roots... a cave-man has to build a fire... etc. On the intellectual side. I find it fascinating that my body contains evidence of interbreeding of two human species 40,000 years ago - which is one of the more important scientific findings in recent years (at least in the field of human evolution). Have any of you done a DNA test and did you learn anything surprising?

The original view of Neanderthals was that they were inferior to homo sapiens, but of course, that idea was created by homo sapiens. Neaderthals actually had larger brains (along with stockier builds) than homo sapiens. The DNA report indicated that my two strongest Neanderthal genetic markers show that I have LESS back hair than most people, and that I am less likely to sneeze after eating dark chocolate. Both true. I am not particularly hirsute, nor I do ever recall sneezing after eating dark chocolate - didn't even know that was a "thing," Despite the research and emerging story that Neanderthals were skilled, social humans who were in many ways the equal of Homo Sapiens, I am still using it as an excuse to go to the snowy mountains as much as possible.

any wondering as to who the mfg of the exploding flywheel is cleared up here. can't believe I never noticed it before...

I reckon I've taken some liberties with the Scura folk with this one: "Rich, Dark, and Sexy!"

That, right there, is the most hen's teeth ever seen in one spot at one time . . .

Just received what very well might be the world's last NOS 6 speed single clutch disc hub... Fingers crossed for the rest!

So, the SKF are in, brakepads and fluid, but no way could I get the original rotor off with my ill-fitting, cheap Craftsman hex drive (even with heat and an impact tool). Stopped before I destroyed the fastener and installed the much more aggressive looking Brembo "Carbon Ceramic" pads (07BB0106) that came from MGCycle as OEM. They have blue backing plates if that means anything? [edit/ July 22, 2023: More on this at the Brembo brake pads thread. I learned a couple things to share, partly because of the Sport's service life but mostly because of my "last technician" (me ): 1) I miscalculated the mileage on the Chinese bearings because of my speedometer change. The brake side bearing went 20,000 miles/ 32.250 km. Half what the OEM lasted. 2) Having consistently neglected cleaning where the bearings install in the wheel or greasing that surface, the bearings were very hard to remove. I have now diligently polished those surfaces, cleaned, and used a thin layer of BelRay Waterproof grease, then the "freeze/heat method" to install the new SKF. 3) I remember some of the spacers in the early V11 were undersized leading to premature bearing failures. My original spacer is 112mm, just for reference. [EDIT/ critical length looks to be 113mm!] 4) Anytime your rear wheel is off, do not neglect to clean and liberally grease the needle cage on the right side between the swingarm and the rear drive. Grease also the race that sits within the needle cage and rotate them to new positions. Grease under the washer that should be between the swingarm and this cage/race. I say "should be" because my Sport was delivered without it. Failure to seal that critical area destroyed the sealing surface on the crownwheel nose of another reardrive I have. Again, much of this is in the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist. I'm thinking a lot of V11 are approaching the point in their service life that these things should be seen to routinely . . .

A pic of one of the last 6spd RAM single plate kit's from MGCycle. Wish I'd documented a bit better when I did the swap. One difference is clear. The friction plate. Mine is a three arm deal like the one shown here http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=3117

My single plate hub is out for delivery, I should have it today! No word from HMB on shipment of the RAM kit. I'll try to reach them on Monday, they don't answer emails and only answer the phone for a small window of hours a day which is very annoying. Once I get the kit, I'm wondering what to be looking for on the parts that might indicate conpatibility or lack thereof, before actually taking anything on the bike apart... This is the kit again: https://hmb-guzzi.de/RAM-single-disc-clutch I can't really tell for sure if it's the same one MG Cycle has... *Pretty sure all the bikes listed are carbureted models.** (see edit below) Looking at their photo vs. the one Phil posted above, theirs doesn't have those bolts going through on the edge of the flywheel. EDITED TO ADD: Among the compatible bikes listed on the HMB product page is the California 1100 EV which -does- have a "flywheel" or Phase/revolution sensor, with the same part number as ours!!! the plot thickens... The Cali EV uses the same double clutch internals but not the same flywheel or starter ring gear or springs.

If you look at a schematic you will see the kill switch is powered either through the side stand switch or the side stand relay (that could be called the Neutral relay because it's triggered by the neutral switch). The side stand switches are a known point of failure, they reside in a nasty environment below the engine exposed to water and road salt yet they are expected to provide a perfect circuit to the ECU relay anytime the bike is not in neutral i.e. running down the road. When my stand switch failed the "Go Winkie" light was flickering at about half brightness so I simply shorted out the contacts of relay 3 and never looked back. If I was to re-install a stand switch I think I would use something like a magnet activated reed switch sealed in epoxy or silicone sealant. the current through the switch is only a little over 100 milliamps (relay coil draw), reed switches are hermetically sealed against the environment and rated in billions of operations. Just a small sample https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/switches/magnetic-reed-switches/193?k=reed+switches&k=&pkeyword=reed+switches&sv=0&v=18&sf=0&FV=1f140000%2Cffe000c1%2C2080007&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

Vanson leather jacket - with perforations and zip-up windblockers. Vanson leather roadrace pants - typically only for sporting rides, not commuting. I just sent my jacket back to Vanson for a zipper repair, which they did for free. They cleaned it and conditioned it too (also free). What a great company. Dianese - boots and gloves. Arai for helmets - they are usually the best fit for me. Totally different stuff for off-road riding. I wear a full impact rig and just got some Bohn padded pants to go under my Klim Dakar suit.

I think there are three different wheel bearing sizes on my 02.... The T3. One.

Look at your first image. There are fasteners aft-to-fore holding the intake tract. On the outboard side near the head, facing outward, is a hex that plugs the vacuum tap. It (and the right) should be tight, but do not over-tighten! Looks like the Sacred Yellow Glob is still on your white synchronization knob, so must agree with Rox Lemans: time for synchronization. "Decent Tune-up" may be a good starting point . . .

South County Brewing Co.

Never mind, I googled SEN813 and found it Fiat, Lancia, Alffa Romeo I think Ducati use it also Update - the parts guy showed me a picture it had just one screw hole hard to seal the oil in I think - Roy Copied from another forum http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRANKSHAFT-SENSOR-ALFA-ROMEO-145-146-1-4-FIAT-Tempra-Tipo-1-8-LANCIA-/251703577340? This is the exact same part mine arrived quickly direct fit £24.96 as opposed to over £130 from Guzzi I had to really look hard for it I have told the seller and he is going to add the Bike OR SEN-813 to make it easier to find this sensor is fitted to a whole load of Guzzis V11 series and all these Fits Moto Guzzi Quota 1100, V11 Sport ALL, 1100 Sport IE, 1100 Sport Corsa, Bellagio, Breva ALL, Bellagio, Cali EV, Cali Jackal, Cali Stone, Cali Special, Cali Vintage, Centauro, Daytona RS, Griso ALL, MGS-01, 1200 Sport ALL, Norge ALL, Stelvio, V7 Classic, V7 Cafe, V7 Racer, V7 Stone, V7 Special, Nevada 750 (2004-2013) Phase Sensor I think I will take a trip to the local auto wrecker, I might be able to find the mating 3 pin connector as well.

I know I shouldn't laugh but I just couldn't help it - top and right on the money!