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First report with the Shindengen 847, all good, and now with a led voltage monitor [emoji32]. Now my 30amp fuse is on holiday forever. Anything happens, will report back. Upgraded wire size to starter and ground. Cheers tom. Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk

My Sport has gotten all spitty and jumpy just off closed throttle where I "cruise," pull away from stops, and out of corners. Very annoying and I remember it doing this when the original TPS played out at 62,000 miles/ 100.000 km. Using the Caspers Breakout Harness and Triplett DVOM set to Ohms, the resistance jumps all around at those low throttle openings. Time for a replacement! I've been running a H-D PF4C over ten years (49,000 miles/79.000 km), but those now seems to be non-adjustable so I ordered the CA-CycleWorks PF3C they spec for Ducati. Almost $100US shipped. We shall see if the "Nasty Hiccup" resolves . . . and how the correct PF3C curve "feels" after all this time with the PF4C.

Use a very pointy Exacto knife blade. It's in there good. Just keep working around the circle.

Yes docc that's it. I've been trying to pry it up without success. Guess I'll have to resort to my Dads' advice for solving problems "Apply yourself!" Cheers! John

Those washers are called Bonded Seal Washers or Dowty Washers. Plenty on Ebay.

Ear plugs are a necessity. Period. The wind noise alone will damage your hearing. Trust me on this..

While you have the ignition switch out, it is a good time to clean and lube it's guts. I have some ignition switch grease you can use.

Yeah, I've dealt with those things. Just use a cap screw, and consider yourself lucky it fell out.

That is the anti tamper bolt that goes into the bottom of the Ignition switch or it's mount. Its meant to be not removable . They screw it in then snap the head off. It's not easy to remove but sometimes they loosen up and fall right out.. I once cut a groove in one to get it out with a screw driver.

Agreed, that rubber is toast man. Usually there’s a problem that’s not visible, but that one... This is a good time to take it all apart and clean the tb’s- the bleed screws and plates benefit from a clean, and you’ll likely recover that creamy smooth V11 surge, yeah baby!

Critical tip I only read once. Don't grease the spline with the wheel off or the grease pressure will push the shaft apart giving you a hell of a job to reset so you can get the wheel back on.

I got a swivel fitting for my greese gun from Ace hardware, it is about 2" long and swivels enought to engage the front zerk.

Yes:3 drive shaft Zerks; yes:PITA; yes:special fittings;yes:other places need grease (all of the "sealed" bearings (9?), and the outside/RH needle cage for the rear bevel drive), but no other Zerks that I recall. Good that you're working through these, though! Your V11 will love you (back) for it!