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Received my set. They look slightly different from yours, hopefully they are correct. And I hope you don't mind if I pester you with questions when I get around to installing them heheh EDIT: confirmed with Joe that these are correct. The hole pattern is different on these newer iterations.

2000 Moto Guzzi V11 Sport. 10,200 miles (I'm still riding it.) in excellent shape. Original green paint, top of tank/tail repainted grey (there are some bubbles in the grey paint on the top of the tank, pic included), grey front fender. Minor damage to right side after it fell (repaired). Metzeler tires are 18 months old with a little over 2000 miles on them, worn evenly, no flat spots. Oil and filter and air filter new at 10,100 miles. Valves adjusted. Rizoma brake and clutch fluid reservoirs. OEM exhaust replaced (pic). New battery a/o April 2019. LED turn signals with new relay. I have the oem side covers, I removed them. Includes a three-ring binder copy of the shop manual. Strong motor, terrific sound, rides and runs as it should. $3700., preferred in cash. Located in Connecticut. Images at: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17lsXcbeFQbTBdIG8WZqE9zd5wR5GYiEr?usp=sharing

The pistons MUST slide freely. When you apply the brake the square section seals distort at first as the piston moves, allowing the pads to firmly grip the disc. When you release the brake it is the distorted seal that pulls the piston back to release the pressure on the pads and disc. As the pads slowly wear the seal will distort and then allow the piston to slide through autimatically taking up the clearance. If the piston is not free to slide the distorted seal is unable to pull the piston back and the brake will bind. The Norton Racing team told me to never use silicon brake fluid as it is too slippery, allowing the piston to slide through freely rather than distorting the seal meaning there is no force pulling the piston back. I believe it was Dowty who discovered how the square section seal worked, earlier attempts with round seal led to binding brakes and rapid pad wear.

Yes later oil pump and cam gears have a different hole lightening arrangement. Nice arent they. Ciao

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that WD is bad for the rubber seals inside the caliper and could cause them to deteriorate...

Looks like the CaCycleWorks PF3C is a good source, at least in The States. Probably half the price of a Moto Guzzi Part. And it seems the Harley-D part is No Longer Applicable (?) I'd like to say I can feel the difference between the PF3C and the PF4C, but that would be like trying out a new tire and declaring it "so much better" than the old tires. For me, that is likely only because the old tires were clapped out and any new tires would be a fabulous improvement. So, the stability of transitioning from closed throttle, as in coming out of a corner or maneuvering at parking, is resolved. The >hoogedie< jerking and jumping at slight throttle openings is also gone. My 49,000 mile TPS had just aged out, that's all. From my notes, it seems these potentiometer-based TPS might expire at 50-60,000 miles (80-100.000 km). I'll be checking mine at every tune-up now. So easy once the DVOM is hooked up, especially with a breakout harness. Again, I have never been able to see the glitches with millivolts, but Ohms give it away.

Looks like we've mixed a couple topics: "Cheaper source for TPS" and "Alternatives for the potentiometer based TPS." I have no way to separate these posts anymore, so let's all be aware there is more than one discussion going on in this thread. It's kinda like being at a party where the conversations and music sorta blend . . .

Well I managed to get the engine upright on the bench with the help of my son who visited last night. This is one heavy sucker. God knows how I'm going to get it off the bench once the front cover etc is on, maybe a 3 man job. getting it upright allowed me to fill the engine with oil and go through a pre oiling procedure. Put a pair of 13mm nuts on the oil pump drive and rotated it with my battery drill until oil emerged from the front main and cam bearings. Pulled the rocker covers and yep,oil in the heads and rocker pins. Now to assemble the front of the engine and do the cam timing. Oil present and accounted for. Ciao

Gary. There is effectively no special torque. The book may specify one but since steering stems tend to get dust and grit on the threads any 'true' torque figure is unlikely to be accurate. Also does a book specified torque apply to just the yokes in the frame? or the yokes plus fork legs? Or the whole lot with the wheel in place? The greater the weight on the yokes the less effect a specific torque will have as turning the nut will mean lifting more weight so resistance will be greater. The way to check head bearings is very simple. Get the front wheel off the ground by lifting the bike under its sump. Grab the bottom of the fork legs and try and pull the forks back and forth so the steering stem tries to rock in the headstock. There should be no discernable play. Then swing the handlebars and therefore the forks from lock to lock. There should be no notchiness or roughness and the forks should fall under their own weight, just, with the steeing damper disconnected. The commonest form of wear in steering head bearings is for them to wear a 'notch' in the straight ahead position. If you have to exert more than the slightest nudge to the bars to get them moving or worse still if they try and drop back to the 'Straight ahead' position or 'Index' anywhere then they need replacement. If you get a rocking movement at the head stem when you move the forks back and forth you can try to remedy it by simply tightening the adjuster nut to take out the play. Just turn it clockwise and keep checking the forks will go lock to lock. If they start to feel *tight* you've gone too far. If they start to *index* at any point? They need replacing. If you can't remove all the play from the stem and the headstock before the spanner offers more than a few ft/lbs resistance then there is an issue and the bearings need replacement. Unless they've changed them big-block head stem bearings are #30205's and cost about $15 a piece. If in doubt? Throw 'em away and get new ones. Pete