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The thin earth cable from the ECU to the minus on the battery is inside the wire loom together with a lot of other thin cables. When I got my V11 Coppa Italia - someone had tried to undo the positive main on the battery. By doing so - he (she) made contact between the battery positive and the ECU - leading to high current floating through this thin earth wire - leading to melting down all wires inside the wire loom as Kiwi-Roy shows in his picture. I repaired all the damages and made a new ground wire from the ECU to the minus OUTSIDE of the wire loom. Thereby I can let this outside wire melt without damage to the others. I recommend everyone to do as I did.

It should be somewhere near the seat release lock Mine was under the seat release screw, i moved it pretty quick. A gearbox bolt is an obvious point. Some VIIs have let out magic smoke when the main ground became lose, this diverts the starter current to the small black wire from voltage regulator to battery, it pretty soon glows red hot melting into other wires.

LED Headlight. Bought on Ebay. M

From Joe, email him directly. Mention the forum and my name. There's nothing in it for me personally but he's a good fellow and always been very helpful to me and I like to encourage these type of talented people to keep producing stuff for Guzzi's. Lets him know I appreciate his efforts and pass the word around. joe.caruso@ntlworld.com Ciao

Yes, to the back/right/top of the gearbox behind the seat latch:

Just follow the biggest ground from the battery. Cheers tom.

Thanks for all the great feedback. I think I’m going to start with checking the master cylinder and get a service kit for it and perhaps get one for the Caliper too. This bike was a Japanese import with very low mileage so I’m guessing it’s just been laying idle for many years - which doesn’t help. Lucky Phil - your point about accidentally dragging the rear brake pedal is valid as I thought I may have been doing this. I think I’ll adjust the position of the lever so that it’s well out of the way. Also it has rear sets on - not sure if this would make a difference?

All good answers here so far but to reiterate. Make sure the brake pedal is adjusted so the master cylinder piston fully retracts and doesn't trap brake fluid in the system.As the dragging brake heats up it then starts applying the brake automatically. Simple to check. Take the reservoir cap off and check when you apply the brake quickly you get a tiny backflow of fluid into the reservoir as the master cylinder piston closes off the reservoir feed hole at initial travel. Dont use silicon brake fluid. Spongy brakes result as well as lubrication properties are inferior to traditional fluid. Dont use WD-40 or solvents on brake seals. Made sure you arent unconsciously dragging the back brake. Racers were often bad for this, used to swear on a stack of bibles they didn't do it but they did. They just didn't realize it. Buy a 12 dollar brake moisture content tester off ebay and use it. When it indicates water level of over 2% in the brakes and clutch system flush and refill the system. When you have the wheels off pump the brakes until the pistons extend until the pads touch, clean any exposed piston surfaces and then lever the pads back to the point where the caliper can be just pushed over the disk. This helps un-stick the pistons from the seals and give a good lever esp on bikes that dont do many miles. A pressure bleeder is WAY better than a vacuum bleeder and hand bleeding. You can buy a good one for $60us that will do the bike and the cars. Rear brake caliper need to be removed and inverted for effective bleeding. Very often the front brake master cylinder needs to be loosened off and rotated 15 deg or so and the lever operated slightly so air trapped in the connection between the master cylinder and the brake hose can rise into the reservoir. You will see the bubbles appear in the reservoir with the cap off as you jiggle the lever. Esp critical for bikes with clip ons that position the brake master to hose connection slightly above the base of the reservoir. Ciao

We have some upcoming news on this effort. If you have been thinking of getting a plate you may want to wait just a little bit. Note: These will not include the gaskets. Note: These will be considerably less than any on the market now.

Received my set. They look slightly different from yours, hopefully they are correct. And I hope you don't mind if I pester you with questions when I get around to installing them heheh EDIT: confirmed with Joe that these are correct. The hole pattern is different on these newer iterations.

Phil, and Pete It's my pleasure to help you guys out. My appreciation goes to you and the many others on this forum who go out of their way often to help and share their expertise.

But it rhymes with "Bungendore" . . .

Ya go a couple of hours past the Ettamogah pub towards the black stump. If you get to the old Murphy place you've gone too far. There's bugger all out there. Take water.

I made a female housing using a TPS salvaged from a dead Fiat at a wreckers yard. I cut off most of the TPS, soldered on leads, some epoxy and heatshrink sleeve, and presto. The male plug is cut off the Fiat engine loom to the TPS. It looks like hell, but works well.

This turned into a two-week test, because I was away on business travel and snuck in a little adventure, which involves a diesel truck and a snowstorm on a mountain pass in Idaho. So today (finally) the results are in. Brake fluid - seal has 44mm OD Engine oil - seal has 52mm OD - this is an 18% increase in the OD. Brakleen - seal has 44mm OD - it should be noted that the Brakleen evaporated, even though I had covered the jar with plastic wrap. Therefore, I have no idea how long the seal soaked in the fluid. WD-40 - seal has 59mm OD - this is a 35% increase in the OD. The measuring caliper on the engine oil seal is set to 59mm so you can see how much more the WD-40 caused the seal to swell - compared to swelling caused by the engine oil. Conclusions: Cleaning calipers with WD-40 is even worse than cleaning with engine oil. Despite the WD-40 "secret recipe" and some mystery about whether WD-40 includes any petroleum, it seems reasonable to assume that WD-40 does, in fact, contain petroleum distillates. If brake cleaner has any negative effect on seals, it probably won't stick around long enough to do any damage.