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I am pretty sure I’ve sorted the problem now!! I removed the plastic inlet pipe on the master cylinder and discovered that one of the two small holes was blocked up with crud. The hole is tiny and tapered so easy to block up over time. So I probably didn’t need the new seals etc fitted - but at least I know they’re all good for a few more years of riding !

Plugging away at this. Oil pump is in and front cover on. I've made up a cam belt tensioning tool which looks a bit ordinary but works ok. Chuck sent me a file of its dimensions but I couldnt open it because I didnt have the software but when you see an image of one its so simple and you cant get it wrong anyway. Thanks anyway Chuck, just avert your eyes as its ahem....rustic. Turns out it gives you about what I thought the belt tension would be so I'll set it by feel like I do a Ducati belt. I also modified the pulley flanges so you can change the belts with the pulleys still fitted. Basically just the cam timing to do. The "tool" Pulley mod so you can replace the belts. Standard you struggle to get the belts out as they fowl on the casing. The r/h belt pulley inner flange had to be done also and line up with this one. Cam timing to go.

Got the file from Mike. Enjoy. BTW, it is 250MB, so be patient while it downloads. http://www.brianboles.org/img/Stuff/V11_Proposal.tiff

I asked the question of Alibaba; price for 50, plus price to ship to NZ. I will report back.

Yes docc dont bother going inside the drive unit. There's a lot of stuff going on in there, and one of the reasons I consider that these days shaft drive is a waste of time. I'd rather turn the drive through 90 deg in the gearbox and run an oring chain and live with a bit of simple lubrication every 6-800klms. Just think, you can renew your whole final drive assembly when its worn out in a few hours on a Saturday afternoon having a couple of beers and watching the game of your choice for maybe $200 odd bucks. Ciao

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ckp-cmp-sensor-diesel-engine-camshaft_62091864088.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.13.6f677b1dEeDJKN Maybe throw in an order of these too.

Yes docc all the bearing should have pretty much identical dimensions as they are made to a standard. I was a little perplexed when you mentioned they were different. The calipers are accurate enough for this type of measuring. The mission is at the end of the day to minimize the lateral clamping force by the axle nut on the inner races as much as is possible. Ball bearings can tolerate some lateral load but its not their primary load path. Ducati main bearings on my engines for example are ball bearings BUT they are Angular contact type to cope with the lateral loads caused by the clamping effect of the crankcases when the engine is cold and the side thrust form those engines fitted with helical primary gears. My advise is to either machine up a new spacer which to someone like Chuck for instance would be a doddle or do as I did and add a shim to the spacer to bring it up to the correct dimension. I went the shim route because I could do it with a single shim I had on hand and I didnt have any raw stock that would be suitable at the time. I also rarely remove my wheel so the spacer falling out wouldnt be an issue. I bonded it to the spacer. When the bearings are fitted and the spacer is the correct length it also doesnt float around when the wheel is out like a short spacer. The sleeve on the right side always tends to corrode anyway but any spacer in this application and the one on the other side of the rear drive thats made of steel ( which is all of them from memory) shouldn't really suffer from any crush by whats produced from the axle being torqued up. Ciao

Docc all the other stack ups wont really affect or mitigate the short wheel bearing spacer. If I understand your post the spacer is 1mm too short. What are the actual differences between the bearing widths? The place you usually find C3 bearings are fitted in engines. Ducati's always used C3's in their head bearings although I dont know its totally necessary as plenty have run std clearance bearings in them. I've seen this issue of short spacer enough times for me to measure them whenever I have wheel bearing out. Its quite common, dont know why though. Maybe the bearing widths vary enough to make it an issue although I've seen plenty of original wheels and bearings with short spacers. If you look at the new bearings you will find they have a slight bit of lateral play so a tiny bit of lateral preload they can tolerate but you're aiming for zero. Maybe a combination of wider bearings and using all the lateral play reduced the issue of the short spacer on the original wheel bearings.I'd be surprised though if it mitigated 1mm too short. In general I dont worry about where anything is made if its actually a "name" product. I am wary if its a product say its a Chinese product from a Chinese company. The known big brands like Timkin etc have their own quality management and monitoring structures so are generally high quality. I've bought a few Chinese engineering things from Chinese companies over the years and the simple stuff like Titanium bolts etc are generally fine but the more complex stuff is risky. Ciao

there are options ... https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-PF3C_60819128336.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.10.1e1e1e71BheaUi

The green Sport is truly gorgeous. I wonder if a half fairing version 'in the flesh' might be too much of a good thing. Are there any other photos of this design? The Champagne '02 would be the first LM in (almost) one color. I would love to hear their thoughts at the time on decisions made for colors. I have no problem envisioning an all silver, red frame LM. Possibly the first 2 model years having no red or yellow choice, as well as no fairing, was an attempt at distinction from the earlier Sport I line.. ? The green Sport seems to say "this is still a traditional Guzzi" to those, at the time, who may have considered the new design too radical. The Telaio Rosso homage was enough, I think, to leave the fairing off. Also... at the time... would green have been the "flagship" color with black and silver as alternatives? Any pricing variation?

Both my failed TPS exhibited jumping (up and down) in the resistance (2000 Ohm range) with my Triplett DVOM. It was not apparent on the millivolt scale. This is testing the resistance through the TPS (potentiometer) slowly opening and closing it while reading the resistance. Normally, the TPS reads over one Ohm and scales through the tenths and hundredths, as I recall. My bad TPS would jump up and down at several points and even went "open" at a certain angle of opening. The Sport was getting hard to ride.

I'm not sure if I have a parts bike or an art exhibit . . .