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Added an aluminium rear hugger that i made. It took 6hrs because the 1st part needed were new mounts needed in the stand. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I have a six speed box and a five speed box plus the Ram clutch conversion in front of me so I might be able to help. If I were you I would take that input hub and a little valve lapping compound and remove any binding that you referred to. Then I would send it off to Swain's coatings to have it poly coated. I just don't think your going to be seeing to many more of those. The splines are subject to wear if you don't grease them and its just not a five minute job so could get neglected. In the past I would just replace the input hub when the clutch started to drag as my time was more valuable. Like everyone said it should fit right up. The bell housing have different shapes between the 5 and the 6 speeders with the bearing for the mainshaft on the 5 speeder being recessed, but the outer diameter has the same depth. You might want to use some clay at potential contact points and dry fit if you have concerns, but the push rod is probably your only problem that I see.

Thank you! Yes this does help a lot. The stack height thing seems like a critical dimension. In the earlier photos, the hubs are lined up with the top of the splines because they sort of bind up there, it's a cery precise fit, but if you push a little they go in further and bottom out on the friction plate. I imagine that when assembled they won't actually go in that far, so my most recent photos were the extreme case. There is a couple if not a few mm more of protrusion for the hub. Thank you so much for confirming stack height! Now the next thing to freaknout about will be the pushrod haha

so far I have this... I have a stock single plate and a stock dual plate. the stacked height for both is 55mm. bear in mind they are not bolted tight together, just stacked without springs. I'm curious why, in the photo where you tried out the new 6spd hub, the splines sit flush with the clutch splines, then in subsequent photos (where you were measuring), both hubs drop in further? seems odd Also remember, the hub is attached to the trans and does not "bottom out" into the clutch assembly. hope this helps

Hello Guzzi World! I hope this is not too off topic on this v11 forum. There are discussions about other bikes, so I am taking a chance. I inherited my father's 1991 Sessantacinque GT (exactly like the picture on Greg Bender's site http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_small_blocks_older_small_block_issues_.html). I imported it to the States and I am restoring it to better conditions, since it sat in a damp garage for 4 years. I got it on the road just last week and after about 100 miles the gear shifting started acting up. It would find a neutral between 2nd and 3rd gear, then it decided to not shift beyond 2nd gear. I want to fix it and I am looking for more info and possibly some help (in person) to remove the gearbox and (maybe) open it and fix it myself. I found a lot of documentation, but I am not totally sure which V65 this bike is. I understand it is a small block engine and it is very similar to the V65, V65SP, V65 Lario and so on. I am not sure what frame this bike has because I think the "crabbing" instructions I found on guzzitech.dk are for big block Tonti frames. Also, the workshop manual makes it look so easy to remove the gearbox. It looks like removing the lower frame arms, along with the rear wheel, cardan joint and centerstand, will give me complete access to the rear of the engine. I have not been able to find more detailed info for doing this on this V65GT frame. I would greatly appreciate any pointers to at least remove the gearbox. It would save me $260 to have the local Guzzi dealer do it. Also, how relevant is Peter Roper's detailed document on the gearbox for my bike? It seems to be for big blocks. Thanks, Pescatore

craigsinclair addressed this in Nov 2016 in this post. See if it helps: "Shifting Woes"

Let me know if you need a new one. I have a brand new Bosch pump, bought a few years ago as a backup, that I won't be needing.

Nope, I did not dare to fix it in any way... Cuz if it fails again, it will probably be with a hot engine between my legs... I do still have the (perfectly fine) pump and broken off hose pillar.

"Last Chance Texaco"

After the good fortune to ride the Sport today (always a joy, but especially in mid-February here!), I was elated to find all of the popping, hiccups, and hesitations gone. The idle was stable without stutters or pops, no lurching or "misfires" moving away from a stop or rolling on out of corners. Gone, also, was the popping and crackling on deceleration. I had a great "long way to work" through the hills and hollers (45 miles). This outcome is especially satisfying as the only change I made was setting the TPS (Fully closed throttle plate, etc.) from 172 mv to 157 mv. Idle was still a little low for my tastes, so I checked the Throttle Body Balance (and because I promised Meinolf I would! ) I had opened and gently warmed the mercury chamber of my MotionPro "Balance Sticks" to above the dew point to (hopefully) evacuate moisture. The mercury columns rode up solid and clear of gaps. Balance was perfect at "some rpm" (2000-3000), but way off at idle. I brought he RH air bypass screw out 1 & 1/2 turns and the LH is about half that. The mercury settled out evenly and the idle rose and stabilized. I did not have to move the idle stop screw. (Disclaimer: I acknowledge that Meinolf has an expertly crafted map and method to defeat the air bypass entirely.) So, #1) I am impressed the TPS really is that sensitive. It must have been right on the break point where I could not stabilize the tune. I remember fussing and fussing with the Throttle Body Balance as it would jump back and forth suddenly trying to set the "white knob". No way I would skip the TPS setting in the Tune-up again (I skipped it twice/ 10,000 miles and it "told on me!" ) And #2) Why do my air bypass screws have to be so different from one another now? Over 100,000 miles/ 178.000 km and the throttle body shafts and seals are leaking air in that badly? Something with my valves/guides/ heads?

Smallest church in America.

Just purchased this v 11 Cafe sport and 2005 model all stock, although I found a some Velcro in the tail so I suspect some sort of tuner used to reside there. Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Got to stretch her legs out today after not getting to ride her in about a month.. Guzzis don't like to sit and she let me know that.Snatchy and coughy the first few miles but all's forgiven now..

A pic of my carbon fiber scrapper being shunned by Native....