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Thanks swooshdave - cheap as chips too!!

Written on my Odyssey ( as on probably every single one sold the last 20+ years) is 13,8V charging voltage for floating use. If you want to be nice to your battery you better keep the voltage in this range. If your 14.9 are real, then something's wrong with your charging circuit. Only for those who drained theirs (in spec) it's below 14.8V, no inrush current limit. Exide claims at least 40A/14.8V in case the battery shall fully recover from a deep discharge. If you take this serious you better don't drain it that deep (10 and less). 40x15=600W is a lot, maybe a charger for lorry batteries could come somewhat close.

Candy apple,, a bit over the top,, but, but Moto Guzzi and BELLA FIGURA Both sides of the shaft were all loose,, better bolts and tighten good, a bit more than the book. Bushings on the rod are perty good, suprise suprise. Having a hard time stopping fiddling with her Cheers tom.

Good things to find! Shaft can be aligned by removing the reardrive, only (axle and the torque arm bolt). (Torque arm/reaction rod is hanging mighty low. Are the rubber bushes okay?) Is that RedFrame, and her "stilettos", > Candy Apple Red < . . . ?

Not sure how well this would match the texture on your black fuzzy engine, but I really love this stuff: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Professional-Grade-Rubberized-Undercoating/?N=5002385+3292638249&rt=rud I used it to re-paint the aluminum lid on one of my Rizoma brake fluid tanks. So far it's held up really well (~3 years 🤔) resisting corrosion from brake fluid and general wear. For spot touchups would probably work really well... The texture comes out looking sort of like leather grain, like on cameras and professional electronics from the 80s. Sort of like this, but a little more subtle:

No, that's not normal. That's why I asked. Check the phase sensor. You'll probably find it mounted with way to much distance to the tooth wheel. I recently found this on two engines, both probably as they came from the factory. I removed a 1.5mm shim and changed the 0.5 one to a 0.8mm (two were mounted, so it was 2 mm). Now I have it sitting with 0.5mm clearance - and that cured a lot. At least it's driveable again. It's a Hall sensor, this type is ageing. When new it obviously works also with a gap that big, after nearly 20 years now it doesn't. The interesting part is why especially at 3000 the problem becomes so obvious. Anyhow, check the gap and better get a new sensor. And report your findings please I forgot: I tried several different maps. Would have been better to watch the tach needle earlier and think about what it wanted to tell me.

Actually. Left side stock. Right side is carbon fibre. The carbon rotor is light as a feather and really helps with left/right transitions. A friend of mine gave me the rotor about 17 years ago. It’s a Carbon Loraine brand. Was $2000.00 in those days! I got it for $200.00. Looks cool too! cheers

Official capacity is 5.8 US gallons, as I recall. I’ve never been able to fill more than 5.2. Looks like your station’s pump could use a calibration...

Hello all, just become the owner of a '99 greenie xxxxxxxxx111270 Not had an easy life, & a little tatty in places, but nothing that can't be sorted!