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cool road mate. ...video goes aerial @ 2:29 showing some beautiful countryside

The pickup tube thats part of the whole lube assy enters the screen unit from a hole in the top.The filter unit itself is bolted to the sump floor. Its there to stop any particles larger than around 1/4mm from entering the pump. I fitted a new one to my Daytona engine during the rebuild as a precaution. Not the sort of thing you need to worry about very much. I wouldnt do a sump drop just to check its clean but if you have it off take a look. Ciao

I know this was done here before, maybe it got lost with one of the reboots. I didn't like the HD paint, the texture was finer than the OEM Guzzi stuff. Best match I found was actually one of the Rustoleum Textured. Cheap, matched fantastic, easy to find in the US, and has actually lasted a long time. I honestly couldn't tell you where I painted and where I didn't when looking at the bike. I have to see if I still have an old can around for the specific one I used.

Ooo well that was lovely. Only got sprinkled on for about 5 minutes too. Damn but the sound of those cans on the overrun.... Bike running like a watch🙂

Sorry for the bump on this... a victim of doublethink. It is still for sale. Carefully packaged in original box. For ship cost reference.. USPS quote to MI is only $13. !

50% chance of rain here today.. which means: Rain. So sod it, I’m gonna fit the ol’ earbashers (mivv cans) and spank her across Snakes Pass and back. Snakes is a 20 mile twisty, beautiful, dangerous road across the peaks that the V11 is truly made for! Just got to watch out for large german cars performing alarming overtakes on blind corners...

Taking off the transmission cover wont get you access to the clutch push rod. Did you reinstall the clutch push rod button in the clutch when you re assembled it? If you mean the slave cylinder securing screw head is chewed out then you really should fix that by drilling the head off and then removing the other 2 screws ,pulling the slave cylinder and then extracting the remaining stud. If its the thread stripped then you can remove the slave and timesert or helicoil it. Either way you should really do it. It just requires swing arm removal for access which is fairly easy. Ciao

Is your bike SN 344? If so, it was advertised on Trade Me in 2016 with a new RAM clutch in a package included in the sale. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6728-scura-register/&do=findComment&comment=209802 If that flywheel & clutch was installed, you don't need to worry. Perhaps you could ask your local Guzzi dealer Scooterazzi. They may have done the work. https://scooterazzi.co.nz

Still waiting on new bearings (Koyo C3) and new spacers (from Italy). Radial play in the reardrive pinion has been suspect, so when the rabbit hole opened up I , of course, dove in . . . I asked the other inmates on the ward if this was a form of insanity and they all assured me: I ain't broke, "jus' badly twisted."

No one rides a motorcycle for economy- cough-cough -tire bill. More power. Always.

Today I found out that a relay can *click* but still be faulty. I had just performed a valve adjust, replaced the plugs (again), reset the base tps (again), and charged the battery. Was feeling saucy so i drilled out the xorst baffles too. Went to start her up and .... *clik*, nowt. A few swappings of the relays brought her back to life and a timely find of a vid on youtube prompted me to check all my relays (plus all the spares i got off Harry Boyle). If anyone is interested, you can do this by attaching the relay to a spare battery, then use a multimeter to check for resistance across the circuit. It's a great tip as i had thought, in my leccy-naivety, that a click meant all was well. It don't. Oh and the mivvs, sans baffles, are appallingly loud. I spent all afternoon today pissing off the inhabitants of Sheffield by rorting about like a twat.

I would just like to say two things. Wonderful hard work and I would suggest to either heat cycle the painted parts before hand or when assembled on the running drive line. It will make a huge difference on the longevity of the paint. Also since it was not stated that when using a stripper on porous materials a good strong cleaning of the parts is highly recommended or even using a good solution of hot water and dawn dish washing soap. Or to say it another way that stripper can work its way into the porous aluminum and when the bike is assembled and goes through the heat cycle any residue that soaked into the aluminum casting will create small craters in the paint when it gasses out. Just a heads up. If this was mentioned previously I apologize. On a further note I feel you made the right decision by not going with a crinkle paint as it is hard to make look right as well as adhesion.

I love my Stucchi. Makes me understand why Superman keeps that one fist out ahead of him in flight . . . doesn't take much, it's just gotta be in the right place.

Looks super nice. Maybe you have found a new career.....all that's missing is the red suspenders.....

No sign of bubbling paint so far. It's perfect really - like a time-machine dropped it off. I would guess that the bubbling shows up after several heating and cooling cycles - which my bike has not had many of (yet). Let's assume that MG used a very slow-acting hardening agent in the paint... therefore it has finally set after 12 years of non-use and I won't have any engine-paint problems.

$483 for 5 liters??? cough cough "It's the big one. I'm coming to see you, Lizabeth"