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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/28/2019 in all areas

  1. Ten weeks out, to the Fifteenth South'n Spine Raid, and I'm so trying see that the Sport is properly prepared. [ Insert Waving-Wrench emoji that I currently am not allowed post ] If today's shakedown ride is any indication, I'm going to sprain my face grinning in my helmet! Cannot wait to see everyone!
    2 points
  2. Yes docc, I'm running the extra plate. Ciao
    1 point
  3. The hi cam Guzzi engines (v10, Daytona /Centauro /MGS01) have two camshafts, so will need higher oil flow than a single cam V11. The normal running oil pressure and relief valve setting are likely to be similar for all engines with plain crankshaft bearings. Guzzi used a bigger pump on high cam engines to achieve optimum pressure because the oil flow is delivered to more outlets. So to answer your question, there's no value to fitting a hi cam relief valve to a V11. There is a happy range of oil pressure in a piston engine with plain crank bearings. Too low and wear/damage occurs. Too high causes bearing scouring, among other bad things. The relief valve takes care of "too high" when the engine oil is cold or the engine is running at high rpm. The flow of oil lubricates, and carries away heat and wear debris. Also important is the action of suspending moving parts from touching each other. That hydrodynamic wedge in crank bearings is important, and between the cam lobes and followers, it is critical. For me, this all means use good oil, change it regularly with a good filter, and avoid extended idling.
    1 point
  4. That’s a lot of bike for the money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  5. We have yet another development in this process. And it hopefully will be even better than anticipated. Thank you for your patience.
    1 point
  6. That's why and what I asked you. What for do you want it in your V11 engine? What would be the exact benefit of a higher oil pressure, in this engine? Personally I can see none. On the other hand, why not buy one and support the small suppliers.
    1 point
  7. from encyclopedia of compatible parts, Stainless Steel Bolt Kit page 2,... scroll
    1 point
  8. Stainless Steel is a poor choice for fasteners on a motorcycle esp one that vibrates a bit. The material is too hard and so has minimal stretch which leads to loosening fasteners. they were made for the marine and building industries not for automotive use. I hate the way passive cad plated steel fasteners dull after a while but I wouldnt go SS. The Daytona engine I have just completed and the gearbox I have apart on the bench have been converted to all Titanium external fasteners including the washers. I guess the engine cost around $230AU or so to do and the gearbox around $140AU. Ti fasteners dont weather, stay tight and look great for the life of the bike or car. All my bikes have gradually morphed over to Titanium fasteners including the chassis bolts and nuts. The cost is up there I know but I think its worth the money in the long term. Ciao
    1 point
  9. Not so much removing the weakest aerea, more weakening the stiffer areas next to it. found in Wikipedia
    1 point
  10. the housing doesn't get stronger, it's just more unlikely to break at this line. As it typically does. It's because the tension distribution in the material is more evenly, smoother. That helps especially under dynamic loads.
    1 point
  11. Consider to rework this area, too.
    1 point
  12. Job done... Project finished... Now we waiting for a spring
    1 point
  13. Rest of the bike. Unfortunately is not completed. I'am still waiting for a "Tenni" stickers but now looks like below:
    1 point
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