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I sent a pair of injectors to "InjectorsRX".When I get them back, I will send them the other 2 I have.

Hey, thanks gstallons and docc for your replies. I will certainly look at all connections as recommended and I'm going to order some of those Omron relays. I see they still have a few hundred left. Thanks again guys!

This sounds like a starting motor circuit problem . Loosen and retighten ALL battery , ground & starting motor connectors . You may have a battery problem also .

I'm a "Mr Injector" fan. He cleans and rebuilds them for $17.50 each. I'll be sending my V11 injectors to him, as long as he supports cleaning the V11 injectors which I'd be surprised if he doesn't. http://www.mrinjector.us/

The temperature sensors are usually NTC thermistors mounted in a housing. NTC (negative temperature coefficient) means that as the thermistor temperature rises, it's electrical resistance drops. The measurements you made need to account for temperature of the sensor, for example is it in your warm hand or outside in the cold. If you are talking about the air sensor in the air box, it is usually trouble free, unless your friend is in the "pod filter" brigade. Then he needs to mount the air sensor somewhere where it measures only intake air. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19831-air-temp-mod-for-no-air-box/ Since a thermistor circuit is usually low current to avoid self heating, the circuit is sensitive to extra resistance from a bad connection. Unplugging and replugging connectors can help, especially if you clean and treat the connectors with something like DC4 or DeoxIT. I bought packs of 20 thermistors from Aliexpress for about $2 a pack. Let me know if you want a selection sent to you, I know I will never use them all. Note that the rating for thermistors is measured at 25 degC. The illustration below is for the V11 air intake sensor, but the V11 oil temp sensor has the same rating thermistor in a different housing.

This extender and the associated massaging of shifter parts, together with the new spring made an amazing improvement in the shifting on my bike. I am very very happy with it! No more feeling around for a gear. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

How much will this be ? Post pics when you get it . You know these tanks expand/contract as much as your lungs ?

I do not think that this is the problem with "tuning " the TB sync. I also put new shaft seals in both TB's. There was an old thread on wild goose about this. Plus I was tired of the spooge on my floor that looking like leaky carbs . I got the seals from Cycle works ? in CA. Same seals as a Duc uses. These seals are the good ones they are a bit pricey but I did not want to spend the time trying to track down something locally. If you are going to be removing any screws make sure you use a good tool. The mounting screws are 3mm hex.Make sure you get it seated all the way. The TB plates are torx bit #20 I think. I did not have a problem with them.I did have some problems with the 3mm hex. WARNING!!!! If you pull the TB plates out, make some scribe marks so you will know how to re-install them. You can spend HOURS trying to get the plates back in correctly ....and you still may not be correct. andy

Haven't been around in a while, but here are some recent pics...

Thanks for that info Phil, I'm so ingrained to think the inside of the exhaust should be the copper/penny brown after a good cruise down the highway that I start to worry when it turns dark or black. Thanks again! Jerry

If you are running Unleaded fuel you can forget about looking at the exhaust tips for mixture information. That grey colour you used to see was lead deposits and the black you see now is the carbon thats a byproduct of low speed running and the warm up rich fuel map even if the mixture is correct. Ciao

I truly admire and appreciate your dedication to maintaining your bike and the knowledge you share so clearly with our little community.

One of the things that I used to find annoying on my cb350 is the crossover tube linking both sides of the tank. It would make it really messy to remove the tank without spilling gas everywhere. Until I discovered Goodridge makes really nice stainless steel quick disconnects for fuel lines. Now thinking the v11 tank would really benefit from a crossover line in the same place... 🤷‍♂️

Jim here. Old guy (67/retired) who still has a brochure for the '77 LeMans 850 in his toolbox. Life intervened and I never got Guzzied. After three cancers, time is running. Time to buy my last bike. Well, I'm looking at an '02 LeMans, 10K miles,Ti exhaust, Power Commander, ECU re-flash and maybe a few things I'm forgetting. Owner says 'pristine" and pics (of course) look good. A fgw hours drive, so generally wondering what to look for beside the obvious. I am aware that '03-'04 have further improvements and that the paint will fall off the '02 engine. Asking 4.5K but might offer 4K after a close look. Always thought the fairings were hideous, but no one close is selling a Ballabio right now. I also know that Guzzis are not so much a motorcycle as they are a project (adventure?) that involves a motorcycle. Yet, as we see, those who love them LOVE them. Pax et Bonum

Ha! After basking in the pure romance of these two icons complimenting one-another's existence, I was struck by the likely technological similarities. After all, they both must be harboring great, hulking, sulfurous bevel-boxes! And there is no escaping the magnificently Quixotic attraction. Evidently, I have been personally afflicted with that aspect of the V11 without prospect of cure. I feel pretty certain I should stay well away from windmills!