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Are you using the "Best (High Current) Relays?" (Hey, it is totally okay to have extra V11 parts on hand and the regulator is no exception!)

Mikko, seeiing you realy doing lots of things to your bike,,, engine work, carbon fiber tank, Duc front,,, love simplicity special when it comes to electric solutions. That would be my wildest dream for my V11, a few marine quality wires to get her running with fuel injection, yes today I would want that, specially with upgraded motor IMHO. Love my old Tonti 992 ccm with 40mm Delorto too,, BUT. I mean basic you dont have to worry to much about the mechanical part of the V11, somebody out the in the electric world, Yes please. Just around 4500km with the new charging system Shindengen 847,,, cool regulator and stator, 30 amp on holiday,,, nock on wood. Im a grown water well driller, mostly used to 15kg 90mm spanners , I just want her to run the way she tells you, OOOK,,, after 4500 rpm. So whos capable of making that,, Im in. Carbon wheels ? would be nice,, but probably $$$. Sorry a lot of thoughts, well meant d Have fun with the build,,,, will follow. ( freight to Norway would have killed the Øhlins deal ) Cheers tom.

If your bike does not feature the additional transmission-frame bracket, look for possible oil leaks at the top mount of the gearbox. This is how I cracked my transmission case, by dropping her...

Click on this link and get a full set of five (maybe extras?). Use Caig DeOxit® on every contact, terminal, connection you open and can get to. Service the main ground to the back of the gearbox on the right. "Condition" your battery . . . https://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html

WELL I BE DAMNED!!! I went out and checked what you guys told me too and low and behold it must have been a bad connection on one of the relays.... I switched em around and now its all normal! (I swear I checked em before!)

Do the "Livin' Easy Test" on your relays . . .

Black is a voltage "reference" from#2 Relay, and white is the indicator light. Neither measures charging.

if the muffler hit the ground, the hangar bracket could bend. also bent foot peg. Joe has good stuff, thats what I have.

"Livin' Easy Test" (for Relay #1): *If* your #1 Starter Relay is "livin' easy" , the only really stressed relay is #5 [Fuel injection/ignition/fuel pump relay in Position #5 moves over 20 amps in the NO position]. Use a serious relay in Position #5, rated over 20 amps NO >Continuous Carry Current<. [ OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 ] #2 (headlights etc) isn't getting off particularly easy, but any any "high quality" relay rated 20 amps NO should do okay there. Here's an easy way to see if your (later V11) Relay#1 is livin' easy : Pull Fuse 5, and Relay #1. With an Ohm meter, check continuity between the Fuse connector (outboard) and contact 30 for the relay (also outboard). Failed test = continuity. You have the *stressed* #1 Relay moving over 10 amps through the NC contacts >Continuous Carry Current<. Use a High Current Relay in Position #1 (rated over 10 amps in the NC position). [ High Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 ] If Fuse 5 is continuous to Relay#2/contact 30 (outboard) instead, your #1 Relay is livin' easy , but you're starting the V11 through the Ignition Switch (Beware of "Startus Interruptus", plus the Ignition Switch should always be cleaned and kept serviced, regardless):