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Sorry I can't answer your question but, if you still have the OEM aluminum flywheel installed, it would be a wise choice to replace it with a new steel one. In this case, either a complete standard dual plate clutch assembly, or a RAM lightened single plate like this http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=1698 Note, this is for a 5 speed as the one for a 6 speed is no longer made. You'll need to be aware of a few changes. If you still have the Scura OEM clutch, you will have the critical piece... the clutch hub. The other difference is the actuating rod "cup" hole diameter. (easy fix) Read this thread if you have not already. There are other threads pertinent to the topic on the forum.

Ball sockets Mercedes Benz P/N A0009930461, and Volvo P/N 946703 both work. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19266-throttle-body-balance-rod-repair/&do=findComment&comment=208046

Massive weight drop? Throttle bodies weigh the same or less than carbs. Fuel pumps aren’t that heavy. Where else you getting the loss?

Wow, Im quite overwhelmed with the help-Kiwi Roy you are a star - its amazing to another Old Fart like myself how this interweb malarkey can hook guys up from around the planet with the click of a few keys. I remember as a young lad in the early 70s, trying to source parts for a Kawasaki 350 Avenger 2 stroke twin in Dublin - nothing whatsoever could be had - and I recall getting a Japanese lad I knew in London to write a letter to the Souriua diagnostic company on behalf of a mate of mine looking for parts, which took months. Different world . Im puzzled why Guzzi would persist in manufacturing problems for themselves, Italian bikes have had a dodgy enough reputation for years from which they have only lately recovered. Then again perhaps the only reason Guzzi have survived the way they are is because they managed the neat trick of ignoring the outside world for so long and somehow managed to keep the factory open. I will print off my homework and apply myself to it. Much thanks and I shall keep you informed - I really hope the trip to the Isle of Man happens cos its 35 years since I was last there and this is a bit of a Band Back On The Road moment. Grazie

The ignition switch is very easy to remove, just take a Phillips screwdriver and undo the two screws that hold the contact block to the lock (look up from below) Unclip the white plate and tilt it out. Need I say drop the battery negative off for safety. The switch also unplugs at the headstock if you want to do it on your bench. Note on this one how one wire had snapped off, the owner noticed the tail light had gone out. The wires were not fastened to the back of the switch cover, and they work hardened where they flex at the solder joint. The loom should flex evenly over it's length as you go from lock to lock, don't strap it down tight. Starter Solenoid Coils I can see your eyes starting to glaze over but this is what the starter solenoid is really like, it has two coils one that draws 10 Amps the other will draw 40+ but not with the modern wiring. (This was drawn from my 2001 VII Sport, the old Bosch starters are very similar) Nearly every bike Guzzi have pushed out the factory door will eventually suffer from Startus Interruptus all the new 1400s and miriads of V7s will fail as the CARC bikes are now and scores of owners will be turned off Guzzi all because they don't understand the problem. I have been preaching since 2012 without much impact. MPH in Houston will make a fortune selling their kits at $40 a pop, I don't begrudge them that. I have learnt to accept owners think because they pay for something it must be better than free advice LOL Cheers Roy

I don't have a specific answer for you, but I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear and connectors, and most important is KiwiRoy's relay base repair. I opened up the handlebar switchgear, cleaned, and lubed using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES. Dirt and moisture in switches does bad things. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/ KiwiRoy's relay base repair has helped 2 bikes over here. I have found poor spade connector tension the base, and also pushed back base connectors. I put some foam plastic tape wound between the relays to limit movement from vibration. So far, so good. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857 Some might call this the wild flailing method of maintenance, but sometimes it works.

This year's Greeny parade, 3 of 4. After 20 years still the biggest group, even without the other 4 KRs of other colours (2 and 2)

Ooo, fitting the round head covers would be a nice look. Thanks for all the info guys! It’s great to be made aware of all the possible options Hi guys, I was in the Quail Lodge Motorcycle Gathering this weekend.... great event. My V11 was on display, and got a lot of positive comments. Just recently added the aftermarket alloy covers with GUZZI on them in a raw cast finish... here are 3 pics of my V11 at the show: There was also a sweet Guzzi custom on display behind me, and he had the polished rounded covers (with adapter plate) on a square-fin (1100?) engine. Not noticing that at the time, I asked him if it's an 850 and he said 'yes', but he wasn't the owner.... he was showing the bike for the owner in Hong Kong. Looks like it's a V11 engine in an older frame, but I'm sort of a newbie with identifying the older version frames... Just that the rounded, polished valve covers made me immediately think it was an 850... it's a beauty! Here's a pic: One more photo from the show, this one of a Morgan-style Aero Cycle Cars 3 wheeler, with V11 Guzzi power!: See ya! BLIGHT