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I've been doing a little bit of research and have found out 2 things, Japanese car manufactureres have teneded to use M22x1.5 threaded gearbox sensors with a tabbed drive, and Ford europe and other Euro makes tend to use M18x1.25 for gearbox sensors and have 3mm square drive; these are the both where the sensors that have a female thread -- I guess it was cheaper at some point to take the gearbox drive "as is" and adapt a sensor to use the existing drive. Guzzi used M16x1 (super fine) on the V11 gearbox speedo drive, which is weird enough given that earlier and later bikes use M12.... So the pitch is different, we cant use something like a helicoil as an adapter, bugger. Looking at thread adapters online, precisely none of them go as fine as 16x1, you can find M16x1.265 to M18x1.25 easy enough. Making my own at this size would be fiddly, so on to the Japanese M22 thread. I was aware of the limited space under the TB link, so didn't want to go mad on height, there are lots of this kind of thing about: But I felt this might go to high, especially with the wires coming out the top, I eventually found this: In the UK this is sold for Toyota land cruisers and Izuzu troopers, but it is common to loads of 90s Japanese vehicles. In the US I found it on Ebay listed as "VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR 3 MALE TERMINALS FOR 1998-2002 ISUZU TROOPER 8971297270". You can pull the tab drive out of the sensor, and luckily it is 2.5mm square drive behind there, just like the Guzzi speedo drive! So I purchased a (long) length of brass 2.5mm square rod. I also bough a waterproof Toyota VSS sensor plug, for the sake of being neat and tidy. Next I made up an aluminium adapter, M16x1 on the inside and M22x1.5 on the outside, I made it long and then cut it down to length, I also had to tap the crappy chinese brass(?) threads as they were a bit notchy: I could probably flatten this off a tiny bit more! Anyway, that is where I am right now, I should add there is a gasket inside there, so it should prevent oil leaks. Just need to wire everything up now and calibrate the speedo off the sensor.

Hi i contacted the previous owner for you and it seems that when the stator was replaced the housing was cracked so it was repaired with the hose clip, the stator is new but you could fix it properly with a new or second hand housing, or you could leave it as it is

Hi mates, Just solved the issue on my rev counter, hope can help anyone with same kind of problem. I opened the rev and and found that one of the 3 weights in the arm of the needle was out of the place. Even before open it, when shaking there was a noise like a small piece inside that was free. If you have the same problem, be aware of not lost it when opening . You must be very carefull as the weight is about 1,5mm diameter by 3-4mm long. I profit having the rev opened to paint the needle. Looks and works like new.

With 15 posts you are no longer a NOOB. My 03 LeMans throttle cable can only be adjusted at the twistgrip end. Have you looked above the LH throttle body to see if you have another adjuster there? On other bikes I like to set the twistgip end adjustment halfway then correct at the other end. That way I know I can twiddle with the twist grip end if I get bored on a long run.

Chuck, you gotta ride south of Indy.

Bassist? Rhonda Smith, she started with an up comer known as Prince. Yeah, she can buzz the bass like Jack Casady. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhonda_Smith The cello is Vanessa Freebairn-Smith and drums are Vinnie Colaiuta. No keyboards but there was some synthesiser or recordings in the background whether it was run from the board or Jeff was doing it and the cello added some harmonic bottom too. Jeff and Vinnie just go and go and go.

You chaps dream big! I’m feeling the need to put restrictions on monetary values here... We already have a thread about ‘dweam bikes wot i’d wuv to have pwease!’ (GIVE ME A MGS01 LORD) I’m talking about relatively cheap bikes guys. Bikes that there’s no reason not to have (bar the space). Praps under the five thousand mark..?

My 2001 had the fuel come out the petcock on the LH side and returned to the tank on the RH through the pressure regulator so if you tilted the bike to the left the pump would immediately pump it back to the right. I took the pressure regulator off and inserted a bent tube in the return port to direct the return fuel over the hump to the left side. Idea being if you tilted the bike to get the fuel trapped on the right side it should stay left I sold the bike before I got around to testing the range I used hydraulic brake line it's available in several sizes

i think he's referring to the tipping of the tank/bike as being the "manually operated reserve supply"? But does the bike-tipping method apply to both internal and external fuel pump bikes? i would think so, since the fuel pump location should only effect total capacity, whereas the petcock location (or lack of additional locations) effects the need for the bike tip...

Nice lathe work..

A Laverda RGS 1000 or a Ducati Paul Smart 1000

Adjustment is personal taste, as long as turning doesn't affect throttle you are OK. The V11 needs more throttle/clutch feathering, while driving, than a lot of other bikes, so get used to doing that, and not using throttle only, especially at lower speeds, like some smoother machines. It's a big heavy lump with a lot of drivetrain lash, so smooth driving is key.

180° Laverda 1000. Beats everything. The epitome of mechanical brutalism.

Forgot to mention my guzzlist: v50 monza and v35 imola...

There is no end to the "shaved apery" a guy can find on a Guzzi.. "Oh yeah.. just put some epoxy and a hose clamp on it, Cletus.. it'll be fine."

I keep longing after this funky-old hi-mile Guzzi some codger has holed up in a frankin' bunker under dance lights. Word is it's been "gone through" and "ran when last parked" . . . There is something about "prying off his cold, dead fingers" that gives me pause . . .

As Gstallions said, I had a friend from work weld a nut on it. He said it didn’t resist much after the welding.....

I'm assuming that the stator housing is probably cracked as I see no other reason for the bodge job with the clamps and resin. There is no rattle issues normally Ciao

So, (depending on your set-up and state of tune) I usually can get 35-37 US mpg with my jackrabbit riding style. 34.5 when the ambient temps are low (40-55ºF) and 40-42 if I am "behaving." I have run out of fuel (too many times) and stopped to tip the Sport deeply to the left a few times (Tip-Slosh) to get a few hundred yards or more down the road. "YMMV" applies here quite literally!

Sorry, I'm rubbish at explaining... Here is a photo to show what I mean. What you can't see here is that the threaded part for the lower left bolt has been snapped off!! So I guess I only need to buy 3 bolts. Although the thread is questionable in the remaining holes, so a tap/helicoil might be in order.....☹️

Well I wouldn't be buying it for its aesthetics. Is it waterproof? Ciao

Needs forward controls and apes..