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I dropped off one head and got a call the next day from the machine shop saying the valves are way too worn to work with the guides... There was a noticeable step on the valve stem. So at this point I figured I better do both heads. Checked the usual suspects for valves, everybody had to wait for a long slow boat for Italy. I remembered that Ferracci was blowing out there inventory since they closed. Sure enough they still carry some valves and are doing an online business still. After pulling the right cylinder (plug came free with little drama) the cylinder tried to come with the head. So I know I have to atleast do the right side base gasket. This thing is stuck to the case like you wouldn’t believe. Arduous task to remove this thing. All the while trying to keep garbage from falling into the case.... Maybe I should drop the sump? Then there is the Roper plate...

Just proves i’m Lazy.... found the motoelectric site in about 12 seconds by just searching. Anyway, here’s their site. I will say I’ve been happy with their product when I’ve used them for older (uh, middle aged?) Ducati’s, like on the st4 and the 904 (Gran Canyon), but don’t know if it would be money well spent on the v11: https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html from the sounds of some of the issues, it MIGHT be of some value on the ground side of things, though most of the benefit usually comes from just having good clean connections. But still, I love my toys, and there’s no downside mechanically to doing this minor mod, and a truly possible benefit, so i’ll Likely do it. i will say that I picked up my 2nd lemans last night (love it, but more on that elsewhere/thread), and it does not have the hicap, and now that I think of it this “new” lemans without the hicap cranks slower than my other lemans which does have the hicap. (So also note that I’ve just admitted my own laziness again, and answered my own question.... I forgot that Goldie (1st ‘02 lemans I have at home) has the hicap kit, as I recommended it to my friend some yrs ago, he had installed it, and later I bought the bike from him. Duh.) so, i’ll Likely do the hicap kit this winter, and clean up all the connections, and do your described 30amp fuse upgrade. So endeth my circular thinking/answering my own questions extravaganza... guess my lousy memory is just getting worse, but it still works when u let it warm up! 😎

Nice find. The torque should be the same as any grade 8 or 9 steel bolt as the torque is determined by the bolt/stud material not the nut material. You need to stretch the stud to maintain the tension so if the brass nut cant cut it then you need to go to steel or Titanium. I'm sure the brass nut will take the torque though esp if you opt for the extra long ones to give greater threaded surface area as thats the idea. Personally I'd go with a Titanium nut and anti sieze. Ciao

Autosol, an old t-shirt and a some patience is my 5 cents. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Many aircraft engines use brass nuts on the exhaust. They won't rust to the stud and become a bolt. Spring washers work fine until they don't. They'll eventually break and leave a loose fastener.

Not at all, I've personally never used a torque wrench on exhaust studs or nuts for that matter in 50 years. As a matter of fact I dont use a torque wrench all that often. Just for critical fasteners and groups of fasteners that need to be tensioned evenly. The reality is its not a very accurate way to tension a bolt its just that its better than free hand for the overwhelming majority of people. Get rid of the spring washer though, they are an embarrassment. Whenever I see spring washers i think "someone got the engineering wrong then".Buy a couple of Nord-Lock washers. Ciao

With brass nuts, I'm ashamed to say I just go with "tight.. but not too tight...." I have put spring washers in there for a bit of tension before.

agreeing with this line of thought, I would do as gstallons suggests, and eliminate any potential problems with external shift components first. You will have wasted no time on it as it most likely needs cleaned, lubed, and thoroughly inspected, if for nothing else, peace of mind. Then think about the pre-selector mechanism, which, for real peace of mind, (and motorcycling enjoyment) truly must be seen too and sorted in the manner outlined on this forum. It's easy enough a job for the mechanically inclined non professional, and getting the new shift spring in there is highly recommended.

It was interesting how everyone behind you seemed to get smaller as you rode. Bill

What a delight to enjoy Bill's view of SSR XV. (We still don't talk much about SSR One . . . ) A true South'n SpineRaider and treasured friend!

So, we are in Pennsylvania now — yes, I’m on a Guzzi, my V7, but here for a truck-camper rally; no, we don't have one of those. Still, having a very fine time doing things such as this: But, I post this because I finally cobbled together SSR pix into a slideshow. Here they are: https://bill-and-kathi.smugmug.com/SSR-XV-2019/n-HFzPbL/ If you are terminally bored, also just finished these of two other recent Guzzi trips: [V7 III] https://bill-and-kathi.smugmug.com/Erie-Ride-to-Zanyville-2019/n-mCD4B8 [Griso] https://bill-and-kathi.smugmug.com/Three-Guzzis-Go-to-Erie-More-Aug-2019/n-N4ZVB4/ Bill P.S. If you care and haven't already figured this out, you can see captions by moving cursor over the individual pix. Some are truncated, so if you really care you can go to full-screen slideshow.