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We definitely do so. Definitely interested. Definitely not wanting to piss off anyone Really, in fact I'm a bit tired of reading or writing about different Hawker types for instance, I rather fancy a topic like this one

First attempt at some static aiming of the "VintageCars" LED. I live on a hillside where my entire existence is slipping toward the Marianas Trench , and the only level thing is my head . So, this set-up is far from perfect, but at ten feet the Lo-beam shows a nice cut-off biased away from right-side driving traffic: Hi-beam looks more "focused" than the last LED unit, but won't know more until I ride at night (I'd rather not), or continually get flashed by oncoming vehicles.

I machined off the crimp. I dont know how contact cleaner worked for you as I tried that as well. After I disassembled it I saw how that wouldn't work for mine as there's no way for the cleaner to get to the switch cavity. The contacts in mine were just tarnished and it needed cleaning up with wet and dry. There was no evidence of oil or contact cleaner in the switch cavity so I assume there is a seal in the plunger section. Ciao

Some info about Tatra: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tatra_(company)

That hurts, man ..

No worries. Have at it. I am sorry if my post ruffled your feathers. It was not meant to be so. I was simply pointing out the physical issues of trying to adapt LED lighting to a halogen light. Docs example wasn't as bad as some, but it was still less than a good halogen from what I could see. But have at it, enjoy. As long as you are not blinding me coming the other direction as is so often the case with retro fit LEDs (and sometimes even with factory LEDs) it don't matter to me.

Well then, why not sit back and enjoy our labors and failures, or successes? The units I chose use some of the latest, tiny Phillips ZES LED chips, arranged in the exact location and shape as the wire filament in a halogen bulb. This is crucial, as the reflector neither knows nor cares how the light it reflects is created - only that the light emanates from the same position within the reflector. The problem with 90% of the early LED units is that they did not use such "filament-sized" chips, and did not locate them in the proper focal plane. This caused the well-known scattered light patterns. I believe that the LED producers have done, in the more recent designs, a remarkable job of adapting current technology to reflector units designed for the now-ancient halogen technology H4 bulbs. A light unit which is purpose-built for LED illumination can do an even better job - two of the OEM LED-lighted cars that I own demonstrate this. Most all LED 9003/H4 units allow rotation of the unit in the mount, until the best light pattern is achieved. As we see from docc's low beam pattern, it nicely replicates the halogen unit, but with greater intensity and substantially less power consumption. Hard to find fault with that. I began driving on 6V incandescent bulbs, which were about like the parking lights or DRLs on modern cars. 12V was a good improvement. Halogen was yet another step ahead, but it is now 50+ years of age and getting rather long in the tooth. HIDs had too many limitations, such as the cost of drivers and bulbs, as well as warm-up time. Like compact fluorescent bulbs, they had their day. I see LED lighting as a 21st century parallel of Thomas Edison's 19th century perfection of the glowing wire lamp.

While I follow your guys' experiments with great interest I follow them also with equally great scepticism. Cooling is a big issue because the issue starts directly below the light emitting stuff itself. A fan one inch behind the HOT spots cannot help if this primary bonding is somewhat suboptimal. So, being keen myself on finding a good LED replacement for my H4 bulbs I'm afraid that this won't happen. Mainly because of two reasons: it's more than tricky to pack several relatively big and hot LEDs on a spot small enough to match the reflector's geometry, second an H4 headlamp is a closed system, screen and mirror build a rather sealed unit, what makes proper cooling even harder. So my strategy would be: either keep it cheap and make compromises or spend bigger money and buy a reliable, lasting professional replacement headlight. But then it's 600 bucks and more, I guess.

Some have kept AGM on BatteryTenders for years and years, even though it is not considered "best practice." Not recommended by Hawker for the Odyssey (they publish a "damage" warning for low amp "trickle"), but YMMV

Yeah, if it was the rare, desirable Silver, there would be 1.

it's on ebay as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-Moto-Guzzi-V11/123933392343?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 the unusual thing is, it has 60 watchers! 60!

Mad. And ace. But mad. But still ace! Ha!

JB might be an overkill docc, even without bonding of any kind with the switch assy put back together it would operate without coming apart the spring pressures are so small. might need to be careful putting the connector on and off,time will tell I guess. Ciao

The kind of reassembly I would trust to a steel reinforced epoxy like JB Weld . . .

Hmmm , how did it get apart ? I worked on mine with contact cleaner and working it about 15-30 mins.

Gearbox is done and now just trying to rectify the nil ops neutral switch. The switch is outrageously expensive and all it needs is the contacts cleaned up. Holding it all back together is the challenge. Loctite 635 will hopefully be the answer. Ciao

On more occasions than I care to admit, I've warned an upcoming turn of my arrival.

I just push buttons until I get what I am looking for .

That's easy to say.. but I too have been guilty of blasting my turn signal at a car.