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S'not your fault Yank banks are even more cretinous than those elsewhere. It was a pain in the quoit for both of us but there was never any I'll will. Being shilled and exploited by smug crooks who are selling stuff they don't understand and stuff that doesn't work? That's different. As far as hopping up V11's is concerned I've never ridden one that comes close to Chuck's Scura which is utterly bonkers. I also don't understand those that get all hung up on HP figures. There are lots of people building or who have built 1400 8V's. Some simply transplant the 1400 donk from the Cali into a different chassis and use the full 7SM/Single throttlebody system, some actually build 1400 barrels and pistons onto a 1200 motor. The one thing that the vast majority of them do is claim stupid, unfeasible, HP figures. Figures that simply aren't possible from an engine with the 8V's heads and cams. When people ask me how much power a 1200 8V makes I'll say 'About 100.' Ask me the same question about the 1400 and you'll get the same answer. The difference isn't really in the peak power, (The 1200 will happily run to 9K. I'd be loath to try that with the 14.) it's in the torque and how it is delivered. The V11 motor is pretty much peaked out as far as longevity is concerned. Yes, you can get it to make more, (Not huge amounts more, but more.) but start pulling much bigger figures and it will loose its reliability and longevity pretty quickly. Pete

Ya think? Chuck's favored "flask" . . . ^^^^^^^^^

I once tried to purchase a bike from Pete. The "authorities" would not let me send my money to Australia. To his credit, he's never made a fuss about, not a foul word, didn't call me a welcher or nothing. I still feel a little bad about the mess. Sorta glad now that I didn't get the bike in retrospect. Anyway, I appreciate that Pete.

Perhaps it is limiting for me, but I have long endeavored to be the poster child for, "Yes, you can make a relatively stock V11 run right. (Even with it's "flawed" mapping and various compromises.)" IMO, as factory Guzzi go, the V11 is already "hotrodded" . . .

Pete and Todd do not get along anymore. I assume it hit the fan between them. That said, I also have a bike using a map from Todd ('07 Griso 1100) and it runs well. It isn't for sale, either. I like Pete, and respect his knowledge. But I also deal with Todd and I have not yet had a bad experience with Todd. I don't agree with everything Todd says or does, but the same could be said about Pete. But, in the end, everyone has to make their decisions based on their experiences. If you are using GuzziDiag, as Pete mentioned, you should be able to find a map that will work well. There is a fairly large community of people using that software. If you aren't the sort to do that sort of thing yourself (like me) you can pay someone like Todd to do it for you. I did that with the Griso (paid Todd) and I did that with the V11 (found a local DynoJet / PowerCommander guy, he is long gone). For me, I deal with technology at work, and so when I get home I really don't want to get into something like GuzziDiag. Maybe one day I will have to bite the bullet, but for now all my Guzzi's (except the Lario) have been flashed or tuned and run great. The Lario runs pretty well, but it could use better jetting or even better carbs. I just don't think I need to worry about it on a vintage bike like that. Perfecting that bikes tuning would only encourage me to ride it harder and then it would probably blow up....

If you don;t mind one in clicks, here's an NOS Coppa Italia unit in Holland. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-SPEEDO-V11-COPPA-ITALIA-017615600000-GU017615600000-GU0176156-0176/133234636723?hash=item1f056737b3:g:T-gAAOSwCRNdzYAG

Hey Tom, When I tried to jam my order through, it defaulted to their standard international shipping $40-50, I wasn't willing to pay that, so I left the shipping section blank and jammed my order through anyways and mentioned in the comments to ship it cheapest, USPS if possible. Their customer service contacted me and it went smoothly $15-20? shipping. Caspers were a treat to deal with, I've been trying for a frustrating month to deal with Nelson Riggs for a simple set of replacement straps that were missing from the bags when I got my V11. I can't believe that in this modern world, a line on a map can bring all business and common sense to a complete stand still,lol. Good luck with it Kelly

Swing arm/rear brake to start.

How many grand are you out of pocket? How many bikes have you seen #@$&@#@ by incompetence? No worries. I give a @#!#$# what shit people do to their bikes but I'm certainly not going to encourage it. Out.

One thing I learned through the years. Forum drama is f***ing stupid. But Guzzi drama is REALLY f***ing stupid. Get over it. Bury the torquewrench and put your big boy pants on (not gonna drop names but you know who you are). Folks that like these bikes find ways to make them better and the stuff works. Pick a spot to throw your money at and have at it. But the drama and the sh!t talk is just stupid. It's like watching the movie Grumpy Old Men but with Guzzis. Yep, pretty lame. Sucks the fun out of this forum thing.

I understood that Meinoff was the V11 guru creating different maps: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19652-v11-ecu-15rc-vs-15m/#entry214733

"There is no greater satisfaction than to desire that which you already possess." That my Sport could be improved 3-5% is pretty likely, but probably not actually perceptible on my part. To get the 10-15% improvement that I could palpably notice would take some intense, and expensive, changes. Perhaps to the detriment of everyday ride-ability. I am unwilling to make that sacrifice. There is that point that I know I "should" pull the heads, "do" the valves (and guides). "Balance&Blueprint", polish the rods, and otherwise try to honor the original V7 Sport Telaio Rosso race bikes.

My Sport? In skimpy clothes? Avert yer eyes! Centauro would be easy to spot from the right side. They are 5 speeders . . .

Ah, who needs one? I heard those high cam engines have nothing but valve train problems. Now, if there was an MGS-01 body kit for V11s, that would be different...

Hey Tom, I enclosed a pdf copy of the Casper's product description of the breakout cables that I had saved for my own records. Hopefully this goes through and you can read it ok. Fyi good luck Kelly Breakout cable Caspers V11Lemans forum 109172 TPS Breakout (Dense 3 way Metripack).pdf

Gosh the iti’s seem so fragile, better off with a quality aftermarket item- there’s loads to choose from thankfully

thanks, kit on the way! Let's all realize that is the two cables to connect guzzidiag, but does not include break-out harness to baseline the TPS. *three cables to rule them all*

thanks, kit on the way!

That's the one I have. It works.

Chuck, did you get yours here? and is this the correct kit? http://lonelec.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_20&product_id=51

Hi John, Well, it's actually quite easy, although I'll have to do this from memory. In a nutshell, no you don't have to do any major surgery, including removing the fuel-tank, to remove the evaporative/charcoal/emissions cannister. In past V11 Sport applications, the cannisters were located under the seat, in the tool-tray area. This was a rather unfortunate location for those of us in States/Countries where this emission equipment was required. But recent V11 Sport/LeMans/Scura's have relocated what were the dual cannisters under the seat, to a single cannister located between/under the the front of the rear tire/swingarm pivot/exhaust-x-over. Looking at a newer V11 from the side, you can see the black plastic cannister mounted in it's nickle-plate frame and kooky wire-tie hold-downs with the bracket. Although this is certainly a more convenient location than under the seat, and we now have our tool-tray back.... the new location is less than attractive, and seems sorta kludgey. So.... enough with the history. How does/why does, it work? Well, you have a vent hose from the tank that goes down to the cannister. The cannister is supplied vacuum from the intake manifold/throttle-bodies. With the vacuum applied to the cannister/tank(via the vent line), gasoline vapors are reclaimed into the cannister, then sucked into the intake to be combusted, instead of vented directly to the atmosphere via your fuel-tank cap. Oh, and for the extra fuel that ends up condensing inside the cannister, there is an overflow/drain tube that drains to the pavement(make sure it doesn't drain onto your exhaust x-over.... potential fire hazard there). OK, now back to the original question... how to remove this thing. Easy, unbolt it, rip out the vacuum lines to the manifolds, cap the nipples with vacuum caps(or run a balance line between the two), and route the vent line from the tank under the bike, to vent/drain to the ground It really is that simple! Longer story.... well, the cannister's goofy "afterthought of a mouting bracket" is bolted in-line with the rubber grommet/bushing assembly that holds the OEM exhaust x-over in place. Unbolt that assembly, and remove the bracket holding the cannister. This bracket is attached to the U-shaped silver bracket holding the x-over with two bolts if I remember correctly. At this point, I just cut the vent line and vacuum lines from the cannister, so I could leave the clamps on the cannister in case I ever wanted to put it back on... don't know why I would though. Once you have the cannister physically unbolted from the exhaust x-over bracket, and cut/removed from the vacuum and vent lines... it should just come right off. You're done with that part now. Either toss it, or do as I did and put it in the "OEM LeMans Parts Bin" that I have started to amass Now, you have two choices with the vacuum line as I mentioned. You can do as I did and just pull the 3-way line out of the bike entirely, and then cap the vacuum nipples on the throttle body with rubber vacuum caps, or you can run one vacuum line between them... although I don't know why one would. It shouldn't matter either way, and my capping the nipples hasn't had any adverse effects. Finally, you are left with the vent line from the tank. Since bikes with the emissions cannisters have caps that don't vent, this line is still essential. Occassionally you will have gasoline vapor, and potentially some liquid fuel escape via this hose. So, I simply moved/rerouted the line forward a bit and lashed it to one of the oil-line fittings. It now drains/vents directly to the ground without any risk of venting/leaking onto my exhaust. That's it.... Now one final point. Other than aesthetics, this modification will/should in no way affect the performance of your bike.... good or ill. If you remove the cannister and things don't run right, you've probably got a vacuum leak and/or pinched/plugged-up your vent line. Either condition could make the engine run poorly. However, if you did everything right, you shouldn't notice anything "better" either, other than you've saved about 2 pounds of weight Well, hope that helps... al

Well I made the colossal mistake of not researching reputable speedo/odo restorers. Sent mine to Seattle Speedo, total scam. Got suckered for just under 600 clams, guess I am lucky that's my first time giving away money via internet. Don't use this guy, mine came back all f--ked up! Cracked faceplate (over tightened screws), speedo goes to 30mph max, faceplate came off of tach during install, original road dirt outside, his shop dirt and scratches inside, on and on. You can read my Google review of his services online. Sad.