Leaderboard

You are thinking of AC current. That AC "skin effect" becomes more pronounced as the AC frequency goes higher, and is only noticible at kilohertz ranges. DC current flows through the total cross sectional area of the conductor. Exterior tarnishing cannot limit current in the cable, except at external connections like crimps. I agree that Iridium plugs are worth the money.

Try a pair of these: NGK CR6 individual wires. About $18/per. 5K resistance cap. Other specs are on the eBay listing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-Racing-Wire-90deg-Solid-Resistor-Cover-100cm-90-100cm-8736-N-CR6/333270758936?epid=171310303&hash=item4d987c3618:g:kyQAAOSwv7BdMMC8

Hey Guys, Working at a Ducati/Triumph dealer here in the Bay Area, we are approached by all kinds of vendors during the year. Most recently, we were offered the opportunity to try a product from a local vendor supplying "premium power leads", by the name of "MotoLectric", out of Santa Rosa, CA. I have ordered a set for my 2000 V11, before pulling the trigger for a set for my 900 SS. Was just wondering if anyone on the site has any knowledge about this company. You guys seem quite knowledgeable about what keeps our Guzzi's on the road & thought you might have heard about them. Here at the shop, even though we were impressed with the quality of the materials, none of us have had the opportunity to use his product. I am the first one to try them out. I will keep you posted about what I find out.... Thank you,

All the electrical problems on my V11 were caused by degraded connections. Tarnishing or corrosion between the cable terminal and the battery post or gearbox ground point for example. This is fixed by cleaning the contact faces of the terminal and the face of the thing it touches. This fix can be made permanent by applying grease/vaseline/dielectric grease to the joint before assembly, then tightening the connection. The grease squeezes out to allow a good electrical contact, and prevents air or water causing more tarnishing or corrosion. New cables can also fix electrical problems, so long as you make sure the new terminals contact clean and bright metal. Bad crimping of a factory cable could be fixed a new cable, but this is rare. New cables will look nicer, but cost more. https://motolectric.com/faq.html appear to make a good product, but their copper terminals are not tin plated. Bare copper tarnishes without this protection. Strike 0ne. They claim "As wire ages it flows less current " and other statements which defy the laws of physics. Strike two...

Andreani cartridges and Wilbers shock, should cost around $1200US depending on the spec of shock you chose. Ciao

Yep, they are good. The white writing can be wiped off with isopropyl alcohol if you think it looks pretentious (although the words "racing cable" does add 2hp ). The sleeve can be slid along the cable to protect against chaffing on the frame and cylinder heads.

Just groom the exhaust as described. Your right canister is twisted outward, clockwise (looking from the rear). A cozy grooming session, as Tomchri describes, will give some joy, mehopes . . . I use gentle mallets to bump things around while tightening fasteners step-wise in a "star pattern" while grooming the exhaust and hangers front->back (hammer content!)

Bent or not I could never live with it the way it looks from the rear.. it's cockeyed.. I'd try bending or making a new bracket to bring the right side in to match as close as possible. but. NOw that I look my Lemans was that way too even with Mistral mufflers.

Welcome to Guzzi! It's a matter of understanding the Latin mindset. To paraphrase the old joke about the Italian driver pulling the rear view mirror off his car and tossing it in the back set: "What'sa behind me, I no care about" Of note here is that the brackets on the Staintune cans on my Ballabio are at different angels. Note the swingarm on this custom. The pic clearly shows that the wheel is centered but the drive requires that the right side of the swingarm and all around it has to be kicked out for clearance.

They are not perfect, but like Docc said, loosen everything, plenty paste on, have a beer, more adjusting. Looks pretty any side, to bad you can't see both sides at the same time. Cheers tom. Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk

+1 with Rolf, yeah, they are asymmetrical. Yet, as others have said, may a bit much in your case. worth loosening the entire exhaust from the heads, through the crossover's hangers, canister hangers, and attachments to the frame tabs and "grooming" the entire system, front to rear, to relieve stress and obtain a more optimal symmetry. Start at the heads and work in steps in a "star pattern."

And so it begins I had the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested from the throttle bodies I had. Originally 1 wouldn't pulse so I dropped them in the the ultrasonic bath and the dud one seemed to come good. However it also seemed to not pulse for the first few applications of voltage so I figured it must still be dirty. I rigged up a 9 volt battery to pulse the injector open and put it back in the ultrasonic bath this time with a mixture of injector cleaner and petrol. This was a well dodgy thing to do and I did it outside with an extinguisher on hand. Anyhow it didnt seem to work. The reason for all this messing about was it was hard to find anyone to clean the side flow injectors, top feed easy but the side flows was problematic. Anyway I finally found a company and initially one wouldnt pulse but after cleaning on their special machine it came up good. Just wanted to eliminate as many variables as I can starting a new engine without the std fuel map. Ciao