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Hi Guys, I know I'm late to the party on this one, but I'd be in for two springs if they become available. As far as I know, my 2003 LeMans still has the original... I would like to replace before the inevitable happens, and would like to have a spare as well. Looking over this thread I can appreciate all the work that's gone into this, thank you !

Probably not much point in me asking this at this point, but the cold weather has come, so I’ll allow myself some premature armchair chatter .... i’ve Alluded to it earlier, but now that I have the two 2002 Lemans sitting side by side in the shop, i’m Wondering about the dramatic difference in the low-end vs high-end throttle response between the two. What i’ll Do starting soon, but not till i get time a littler later this winter, is tear into the red one and get a handle on its tune... valves, CO, etc. From there I’ll have a better “apples to apples” baseline to compare the two bikes. but i can’t help but wonder now, from my couch, why the red one has such a smooth and torquey low end but an uninspiring high end, whereas the gold one has a “buzzy”, low torque low end, and then a silky smooth, “scalded monkey” high end. Makes you want to always run Goldie at high rpm, going way too fast and having way too much fun, whereas red is the opposite with that beautiful low end rumble through the gears. i’m tempted to think the mistral crossover on the gold one may be the key factor in the higher rpm punch. Curious as to what others think, but again acknowledging that it’s probably premature to conclude anything until i tear into the red one and check the list of other tuning elements. BTW, they both start and run great. They just have that pronounced difference in their throttle response over the rpm range.

Hmmm, after a long absence, I very well may be interested in getting back in the game! This is about what I sold my silver 2000 for. I will be in LA in 3 weeks......

I’ve just read the informative thread on Stucchi vs. Mistral Crossover. Having factory recalls taken care of is mentioned a few times. Did Moto Guzzi issue any recalls for the 2001 V11 Sport? If so, what’s the deal on these things? I wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving and hope that all of you get to send some quality time with your family and yourself! Thank you!

These kits are hard to come by, I'd love to get one for my 2000 V11 sport, but can't find one. There's a guy on Ebay that makes a really nice rear break lever ,and I emailed him to see if he might be interested in building this kit. He doesn't own the V11 so he doesn't have the dimensions to build one. If the drawings were available I think he might be able to build them. Seems to me from this form that there is a strong interest in people wanting a kit like this. Picture is the lever that he sells.

Required winter reading:

Thanks for the advice and the concern Will take it all on board and take it slowly and precisely on the install.may just have got lucky with the slap dash clutch replacement 20 000 km ago

Taking responsibility for my own bike completes the circle for me. (repeat)

If you are talking about where the driveshaft fits onto the transmission output shaft, it should fit over both splines. The gap in the splines is there to allow the pinch bolts to function properly. The pinch bolts must be removed to get the driveshaft into place. I hope this makes sense...

Here is the answer I received from MotoLectric: We use plain copper because when put under multi-ton pressure the copper from the terminals grows into the copper of the wire and they merge into one mass. It’s called cold welding and is done in some other electrical industries. In a vacuum, you can actually put 2 flat pieces of copper together and they instantly merge and there is no 2 pieces anymore, they are now 1 piece. We have planned to document that that is why we use the bare copper but it is on a long list of tasks yet to be done. We actually coat the exposed copper with a Shield product that seals the surface. I have the details below. Tinned terminals and wire is less conductive as tin only flows 15% the current that copper will flow and the crimps are not as good as the tinned copper takes more pressure due to the hardness of the tin vs. copper. The lower current flow of the tin is not a super big deal but every little detail adds up and we want to make the best circuit upgrade we possibly can. ——— [Special shipping update / new version announcement - We are constantly striving to improve our products and we were in the midst of revising the kits (slightly) and you are receiving the very latest design. We now apply a new surface sealant during fabrication of the kit and it replaces the dielectric grease - > (the grease is no longer included in the kit). We found that some riders were forgetting to apply the grease and just leaving the copper bare. This coincides with our product name change to HICAP•SCDC High Capacity • Sealed Current Distribution Circuit This new high technology treatment seals the copper surfaces against harsh environments and so the circuit is 100% sealed. The new version kit has a colored tiewrap through a positive terminal hole because although the chemical is blue in quantity, the treatment is invisible after it bonds to the metal. ——— Thanks,M./Michael Heth1 (415) 992-7840

Hmmm . The case needed to have the sharp edges smoothed and the brace added . I don't think flogging the bike caused any of this damage .

Happy Greenie, new speedo and Roper installed. New Rosso Corsa emblems. Cheers tom. Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk