Hi,
I still get frequent requests for the latest V11 BIN.
During the last 2 years my activities have moved on to other bikes, Guzzi Jackal, Norge 1200 2V, Aprilia Mana GT and Aprilia RST 1000 Futurua. So I didn't have the time and inclination to do further work on the V11 BIN. This will likely change, as I plan do some work on my V11 (suspension, cylinder head porting, valve & valve guides, valve timing, ...) during this winter.
Also the experience gained since scrapping the unreliable and error prone Innovate LM2s and moving on to the Zeitronix ZT-2s plus a enhanced set of software tools (programmed by Beard) have led to better data logging and analysis quality. If I get usable results for the V11, I'll share them with you.
In the meantime the V11 BIN can be downloaded here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e7MMuO6vrUZGFfmkCtL3zsW1qeS6uDgY
My recommendation for the basic setup, which is tightly linked to the BIN, is:
- CO trim set to 0 (using GuzziDiag or directly changing the EEPROM value)
- Both bypass screws completely closed (I could have built the BIN and fuel values with opened screws, but this would have introduced an additional error source. My half turn open is likely different from your half turn open. Completely closed is rather unequivocal in comparison).
- TPS baseline set to 157mV (The 150mV found in the service manual and many other places in the internet are wrong, the Marelli or Guzzi engineers had rounding errors in their calc. 7mV are not much, but why not do it correctly if setting it anyways)
- Idle sync using the two throttle stop screws (I've explained the reason several times already. The play in the diverse parts of the throttle opening and the spring push (throttle closed) versus cable pull (throttle open) operation makes this the only way to get a sync at idle as perfect as possible.
While my V11 is mostly stock, I introduced several changes. One is the bell shaped opening of the intake snorkels, another one is the rework of the throttle butterfly valves and their shafts. These, and the TI cans I'm using, have increased airflow thru the engine. Meaning that bikes which do not have a similar airflow or, for example, have the airbox removed (very bad decision), will run richer than required. If you believe this is the case, just reduce the left cylinder fuel values in small steps until you are satisfied. DO NOT change the right cylinder fuel values or you will loose the biggest advantage of the BIN, which is synchronized Lambda/AFR values across the cylinders.
Cheers
Meinolf