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Ok so this is not a song, but the sound is pure hypnotic motorcycle bliss. Turn up the volume!

No guru hood here, I prefer being a fat, drunken disgrace. Sorry, but that's about the sum total of my knowledge on the issue but if I do remember anything else I'll haul myself out of my alcohol fueled stupor and if my DT's allow it I'll type up an update......

Once upon a time I bought a lightened flywheel set for my '85 LM1000. It was well-machined and well-balanced. There was little discussion and a bit of a brusque brush-off when I pointed out that my stock flywheel was much thicker than the received part. "No difference, been using them forever with zero issues". Now the clutch gets hot and creeps in traffic when the thinner plate warps from heat. It's almost as if Mother Goose knew there was some issue with harder riding and improved the part. C'est la Vie on me, I guess. Then after a couple hundred miles the painted on timing marks disappeared. Oh well. Then there's another guy, who contributes endlessly to the knowledge of the community without asking anything in return, in contrast to the one who claims expertise but never says anything that someone isn't paying for. The end

Hi, I still get frequent requests for the latest V11 BIN. During the last 2 years my activities have moved on to other bikes, Guzzi Jackal, Norge 1200 2V, Aprilia Mana GT and Aprilia RST 1000 Futurua. So I didn't have the time and inclination to do further work on the V11 BIN. This will likely change, as I plan do some work on my V11 (suspension, cylinder head porting, valve & valve guides, valve timing, ...) during this winter. Also the experience gained since scrapping the unreliable and error prone Innovate LM2s and moving on to the Zeitronix ZT-2s plus a enhanced set of software tools (programmed by Beard) have led to better data logging and analysis quality. If I get usable results for the V11, I'll share them with you. In the meantime the V11 BIN can be downloaded here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e7MMuO6vrUZGFfmkCtL3zsW1qeS6uDgY My recommendation for the basic setup, which is tightly linked to the BIN, is: - CO trim set to 0 (using GuzziDiag or directly changing the EEPROM value) - Both bypass screws completely closed (I could have built the BIN and fuel values with opened screws, but this would have introduced an additional error source. My half turn open is likely different from your half turn open. Completely closed is rather unequivocal in comparison). - TPS baseline set to 157mV (The 150mV found in the service manual and many other places in the internet are wrong, the Marelli or Guzzi engineers had rounding errors in their calc. 7mV are not much, but why not do it correctly if setting it anyways) - Idle sync using the two throttle stop screws (I've explained the reason several times already. The play in the diverse parts of the throttle opening and the spring push (throttle closed) versus cable pull (throttle open) operation makes this the only way to get a sync at idle as perfect as possible. While my V11 is mostly stock, I introduced several changes. One is the bell shaped opening of the intake snorkels, another one is the rework of the throttle butterfly valves and their shafts. These, and the TI cans I'm using, have increased airflow thru the engine. Meaning that bikes which do not have a similar airflow or, for example, have the airbox removed (very bad decision), will run richer than required. If you believe this is the case, just reduce the left cylinder fuel values in small steps until you are satisfied. DO NOT change the right cylinder fuel values or you will loose the biggest advantage of the BIN, which is synchronized Lambda/AFR values across the cylinders. Cheers Meinolf

I took my 77 KZ1000 to a "mechanic" around 15 years ago to make it run right. Four cyl, four carb, valve adjust, ign, old ...neglected ...bla bla bla. His name is Ross. He had a small private shop in an industrial park. He took half his estimate when I brought it in, which I handed over after seeing his shop full of vintage bikes in various stages of repair, and enough various toolage to make him appear competent on some level. He at least seemed capable and interested in his work. After about five months of bs excuses, my surprise visits, seeing my bike pushed further to the rear of the shop, I emailed one day, as he stopped answering the phone, and said push it to the front, I will be picking it up tonight. He responded with pictures of disassembled carbs. Three weeks later I picked it up. It ran maybe 20% better, but it ran, and I hated him by then, so I paid the bill, which was higher (shock!) and took it home. On close inspection, I noticed the carb balance tube caps were used and mis-matched. I had provided all the new parts he would need and then some, including new caps. After some riding and realizing it was not properly tuned, #2 stopped firing, #4 intermittent, I confronted him. He said he needed the caps for another bike, and that they were "insignificant parts." The translation being .. I was an insignificant customer. I had served his purpose, cash infusion. I said to myself ..I can @#!#$# it up, alot faster and cheaper than shyster Ross, and at least learn something. I used several sources and tore into it. Rebuilding the rebuilt carbs, re-shimming the ignored valves, installing electronic ign. etc. #2 carb was better but not right. After cleaning twice more, I sourced another, rebuilt it and problem solved. I found an ex dealership tech to balance the carbs. He said they were very close already with my static setting. (an eighth inch drill bit). The spirit that gets properly brought to life in a Kaw Zed is a wonderful thing, especially when you owned showroom new one at age 26. So now I'm a "mechanic". Only for my own stuff, and only to a limited level. I will still sub out some things.. mostly to get to an oem baseline, but now do all maintenance and straight forward repairs myself. My recently acquired Guzzi Ohlins with 25k miles, went to a factory trained, and respected Ducati tech for said baseline rebuild. But the next time, I will do it. With my Guzzi's, the issues I am not comfortable with, I come here, V11LM.com,. to mooch advice and instruction from the keyboard mind of the experienced pro tech and the "extreem hobbiest". Advice given to help like minded owner/riders of a marque they love enough to want to keep on the road, even though it's not their own. Mechanically, I help friends with what I can, with marques I'm acquainted. If I charged for it I'd be a charlatan for sure. Ross stopped advertising and closed up shop a few months later. On my last visit with him I noticed someone had broken out his office door window, and Ross was wearing an ankle bracelet monitor. I'm guessing he fled the area to start up his scam in some other town, to take advantage of the (then) recent vintage boom. Watch out for him. finished and smiling....

It's f'd up . Get a new one . You will probably have to remove the tank . If the clamps are indexed correctly , you can leave the tank on . If not , look at it long and hard to se how you can index the clamps so you can use a flex socket & a 7mm socket ( I think ) to get it the next time . I have a SnapOn flexsocket with the u-joint/socket together . $$$$$

Well you could try tightening the clamp but its usually the hose thats split. As far as easy peasy goes I find them a total PITA to replace. Lots of wiring,cables, ignition coils etc to get around. Ciao

Rather eclectic, disjointed, even. From classical to Warren Zevon. Lately have been listening to Johnny Winter, i.e. "It's My Own Fault"

Docc, you can be poster child for whatever....I would like you to put the latest map on mine

Yes, that's correct. The active word being "most" Cheers Meinolf

And here, I thought it was Moto Guzzi turning riders into mechanics (since 1921 !) . . . Fine, fine looking Kawi Zed, footgoose!

I'm confused. (normal at my age) Is it a carbon fiber passenger seat cowl/cover, or just the small pad that attaches to that, and the pad has a vinyl covering that looks like cf?

Some say... M4 carbon fibre

Hi, Higher numbers are newer versions. Cheers Meinolf

I have some end caps you can have for nix. They are made for 6mm cable, so you would need to trim 8mm cable a little. PM me your address.

ahhh, got it. thanks I gotta have red

I know Mike also re-used the original single plater out of the Scura RC for one bloke who was adamant that he wanted to retain the single plater. The steel flywheel option is, I believe, based around utilising a heavily lightened version of the single plate flywheel that was used on early Hydro Cali 1100's in 2002/3. These unfortunately had really shitty friction plates that tended to wear out in a few hundred miles. In fact there was actually a recall I believe? As to what had to be done to them to lighten them and what friction plate/material should be used I have no idea but if you can find one of those take-off clutch/flywheel assemblies it would probably be a good starting point. Pete

I believe so...but I'll double check again with Mike this week, let me confirm details so I don't unintentionally mislead anyone here!

I have a little stumble pop at right of throttle under load really small and only if i slowly roll the throttle. If i open it faster it seems to be fine.When im on the gass its good. I used that Titanium cans tuning I posted. I used the 2002-2003 version. Everything smoothed out awesome Checked valve lash .006 intake 0.008 Exhaust.CO trim is at +5 I had some problems getting it there but will get it to 0 again forgot how I did it, had to use Scura in the preferences. I will try the 2001 version is has a larger baseline throttle setting almost a degree more and see what that does but I'm almost there.Or ill try to adjust it out with the air screws. Or I can connect the 2 vacuum ports like the were originally. Thanks fro everyone's help and Merry Christmas. Rob

If you have no luck I can get a set from a rosso mandello (black with footpegs) from here in Japan. I have no idea of the quality but look good in the pictures. The paint could be faded and chipped though and rubber is how you would expect for the age Cost about 150 US dollars plus shipping. No idea how much shipping is. Look in better shape than the ebay one

This is something I'm very interested in. I have twin plugged heads on my bike, but haven't set it up yet. Biggest hurdle for me going forward with this is the prospect of having to change the ignition curve. I'm dreading having to manually edit the map. I have a table that was provided to me by a gentleman on this forum who went by the name "Motoguzznix". I will delve into this over the winter. If all else fails, I'll ditch the 15M ECU (which I consider to be the boil on Sophia Lauren's ass) and install a set Keihin flat slides and an ignition module from Eletronik-Sachse and be free of the whole mess that is this Magneti Marelli injection system.