Leaderboard

I am falling back in Love with my Guzzi - this week. What I love about Guzzi’s apart from the fact that they are relatively bullet proof and at the same time interesting and different, is the need for a multitude of specialty fabricated tools to do routine maintenance. Based on Chuck’s last remark it now appears that I need to talk to “err indoors“ and justify the purchase of a small lathe to add to my wish list. (I have always wanted a lathe). the other thing that the battle against Luigi’s maintenance friendly engineering is teaching me is endless patience and the value of a good forum full of people who have been there before me and are prepared to answer dumb questions!😳

I picked up Van Morrison's latest "Three Chords and the Truth". Van seems to release a new record every couple of months. He has a great journeyman band and kick out lots of good tunes, I like his stuff. Anyway, Van has done so much spiritual stuff, "Kingdom Hall", "Bright Side of the Road", Wonderful Remark", "Whenever God Shines His Light". When I saw the title, I thought it might be a gospel or spiritual record, something inspirational and loving. Rather than describing this record, I think the titles of the songs will suffice: "Bags Under My Eyes", "Read Between the Lines", "Stop Falling Apart", "Fame Will Eat the Soul", "Nobody In Charge" The record is full of delicious cynicism and irony. It's just great and a little funny. I couldn't be happier to have assumed wrong. I think it's pretty good, this one and another recent album, "Roll With The Punches". So I am taking a vacation in Feb for my first time in Vegas. Have tickets to see Van. The Vegas deal is kinda of a runaround since the good tickets are comp'd to the rollers (not me), I should've "read between the lines".

$4750 A strong running V11, selling because I got a nearly new Stelvio which I use all the time. The Sport sits there and should be used, it’s really a nice driver. I keep the nearly new battery conditioned and tires inflated and take it out once in a while. All of the weak points with these models has been addressed, including the NHTSA recall, and the performance mods have been done. It’s Japanese reliable: add gas, turn the key and go. The bike is currently in Atlanta GA, with GA title and registration (formerly it was registered and titled in CA). All extras are here in GA and go with the bike. I am NOT separating the bike from the extras, or the extras from the bike. Bike is currently configured with handlebars. CA emissions sticker is still on the bike, under the seat. I can assist with shipping, but buyer is responsible. I have used Shipping Masters, including their title escrow service before, and can recommend them. Or you can fly and ride, and ship the extras using UPS or whatever. 3 weeks sitting, cold start video here: https://vimeo.com/406649103 2000BY / 2001MY Bought with 4.5k miles Transmission recall done by Pro Italia, CA, documented Currently 13.6k miles Open-loop ECU (no Lambda) Roper plate installed Front forks rebuilt with Racetech springs and gold emulators Rear shock upgraded to Hyperpro 460 (290mm, +/-5mm) Stucchi crossover Mistral slip ons with DB killers (removable) Re-map by Todd Eagan @ Guzzitech MG Cycle manual petcock Upgraded oil cooler mounts (steel) Motiv Cycle Works transmission brace New Dunlop Road Smart 3’s installed winter 2018, approx 1000 miles on them “Lucky Phil’s” shifter mod installed (still have OEM) “Scud’s re-engineered shift spring” (installed) Upgraded relays and relay base, OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 Casper Electronics breakout harness (to facilitate checking the TPS voltage) Just replaced rocker cover gaskets Just replaced the regulator with new Ducati Energia RR Just replaced the angle drive for the speedo Just replaced the battery (Odyssey 545) EXTRAS: 2x Lower sump gaskets Cortech tank bag 1 x extra “Scud’s re-engineered shift spring” OEM clip-ons (clamps, bars, bar-end weights) OEM shift linkage lever (Lucky Phil's now installed) OEM foot pegs OEM owners manual OEM tool kit 4 liters Eni i-Ride 20-50w + new Hi-Flo filter 2 keys Custom grease gun tip for greasing the upper u-joint without removing rear wheel OTHER INFO: Oil last changed at 11k Transmission fluid last changed at 11k (running Redline Heavy Shockproof) Bevel drive last changed at 11k (running Redline Heavy Shockproof) I have used Bell ethanol gas treatment since I have owned it. Shop stand pictured not included but available for purchase Photos:

Yeah, pretty standard for an ST2. Baskets wear on the spines and the rattling and gear shifts get worse. Barnett do a longer lasting clutch basket and plates to match. On the barnett clutch they have a stainless steel covers over the wearing areas and this helps make them last longer.

I must update that profile,I sold the ST 3 years ago. I think you'll find the electrics to be fine on the ST although they may have gone to a 3 phase alternator at some point, not sure. The only negative with the ST2 was getting the fairings on and off,a total PITA and the battery resided under them.The ST2 is a better bet than the ST4 for most people though as the maintenance is far easier. The Ducati dry clutch I've been working on for 35 years. The good thing about them is they are simple and easy to access, parts are relatively cheap and the tooling pretty basic ( there is a nylon clutch holding tool you can buy on ebay cheap from memory. I have one and it holds the basket and the hub). You will need a new basket (get an aftermarket alloy one) and the outer part of the hub where the steel plates ride on the splines and a set of steel and friction plates. The hub nut is fairly tight so you need 1/2 inch drive and a rattle gun comes in handy for the basket bolts. Look at the main seal for leakage ( they are pretty good) and you need to use thread sealer on the basket bolts so they dont leak oil. Look at the bearing in the pressure plate as well Ciao

FWIW - all the Ducati STs are cheap. I just sold an ST3 in very nice condition for a bit less than my $2,750 asking price (and after a long time progressively dropping the price in the ad). It was a 2004, which I think is the last year of the dry clutch on that model. The ST3 is more powerful and more refined than the ST2. I'd certainly rather spend a few hours replacing a Ducati clutch than a few days doing a Moto Guzzi clutch. And with a dry clutch, you can get fancy stuff and a vented cover so it always sounds like your bike is about to frag itself. The Ducati desmodue/desmotre Maintenance and Modification Guide, by LT Snyder is a good investment if you decide to get one of these bikes. But it does not cover the desmoquattro (the engine in the ST4).

At that mileage the whole clutch will almost certainly need to be replaced, basket, hub and plates. Pretty easy job Ciao

Interesting video's. I'm always amazed that people will go to the trouble and expense of investing in something like a K-line kit and then not spend the $25 on a cheap air driven impact gun to drive the liners and the sizing arbours. Hammering them in and the arbours through with a lump hammer is silly. All that stuff bouncing around on the bench etc and the fact that one of the reasons you use a 4000 bpm driver is so the sizing process is fast and fluid and produces a uniform ID not a stop start irregular interior. Its way easier with the impact driver believe me. Also why dont people spend a little time making a simple jig or cradle from wood to hold the component, head in this case to the bench so when you're doing this sort of work you're not chasing it all over the place and watching it wobble around while finish reaming. I made up my own simple cutter to trim the liner which worked fine. I'm not actually convinced that the K-line reamer is compatible with the guide material Guzzi use as I see he has the same trouble with the process as I did. Surprisingly hard to ream the guides. I have since found out that Kibblewhite have 2 types of reams for the different types of guide material they sell and the reamers shouldnt be used on the wrong type. Ciao

Hi Mark, After Recently fitting lowered and advanced pegs i had the same problem with my brake lever this is how i extended it: simple and adjustable. 8 mm aluminium plate with a 10 mm s/s coach bold as a pedal. a milling machine is handy for the groove, but by no means essential. Hope it Helps.Greetings from (very wild) Cork tonight. Luc

Thanks for that.

I've been at this front U-joint thing a long time. No one has framed the question better than "dangerous" . . . This is what I use:

I use this on the front nipple, wheel off.

Thanks for the encouragement Chuck. 👍 I retired this year and was wondering somewhat aimlessly what I was going to do with my time. Now I know having discovered Guzzi’s answer to the Marquis de Sade which is motorcycle maintenance. while waiting for the arrival of my blind puller from Amazon, (2 day delivery even up here), I thought I would follow the tech list - things to do when the wheels are off. So on the final drive I checked and greased the needle roller which was in great condition and found the spacer and washer✔️ Then I decided to grease the prop shaft as I was on a roll. Got grease into the spline nipple and then with some difficulty greased the bottom UJ. Then went to find the top UJ nipple which, according to the diag. Is supposed to be behind the gearbox. Behind the gearbox is also behind the foot peg and rear brake hanger and under a shield plus blocked off from the bottom by the exhaust cross over. I tried to get the three bolts out of the cover over the UJ but could not easily get the third one. so before I disassemble half the back of the bike Am I missing something here or is this really going to form a large part of my winter retirement projects. Don’t get me wrong I am enjoying re-acquainting myself with the joys of bike maintenance, however it does raise two questions: How are you supposed to the top grease nipple? and if I had sent this to the dealer for service what chance is there that they would do this anyway? My guess is “no chance” as it would fall in the too time consuming and out of sight box.

I'm with you docc,I thought the tight clearances were .004/.006 and the loose were .006/.008. Oh well, I do know that it makes a difference to the starting and idle running though, which surprised me.Such sensitivity to valve clearances. Dont know about running them wider than that though,you would get to the point where the opening/closing ramps became ineffective and valve seat wear became an issue. It would be interesting to see what effect valve clearance had on actual dyno numbers though so we could see the differences between starting,idling,valve noise and outright running performance then choose the compromise we wanted to make. I'd chip in for the extra hour of dyno time after someone does a dyno tune to find that out. Ciao

It can get pretty hot here and even in traffic I've never had any issues with 4 & 6 thou clearances on any Squarefin motor. Roundfins need a thou or two more due to their cast iron/HCS rocker supports but even their 8 & 8 are absurd, I run 5 & 7 with them. The early Hi-Cams I don't have enough experience with to know the subtle nuances of necessary valve clearances but the 'Nuovo 8V' works fine with 4 & 6 and in fact the gaps actually open up with heat. It's very sensitive to changes in valve lash though. Sensitive enough to run poorly if they are wrong and you're running an open loop map.

As researched previously here on V11 site for issues with a 3000 RPM spit/cough thru left side intake, I decided this the best avenue to chase this steadily worsening condition. I completed removal of exhaust system, headers back to mufflers. As part of the process. I cleaned all SS with Barkeeper's Friend cleaner/polish, inspected weld joints, Loctite'd fasteners on hangers and reassembled using new "metal-icized" exhaust gaskets from MG Cycle. As you can see in picture I have the crossover in system just in front of the alternator cover. Using care during reassembly to preclude any new leaks, and leaving everything slightly loose to obtain best fit and maintain clearances with the engine and frame, I completed reassembly without any issues. After a test ride of about 45 minutes I was able to confirm that the exhaust leaks were the cause of the 3000 RPM cough/spit I had experienced over the last year or so. Thanks to the various topics posted on this forum, I am glad to report that my red stallion has returned to the road in excellent running condition. (As a side note, after much disappointing experience with speedo/tach service with Seattle Speedo, and being scammed for $587.76, I replaced my speedo with a new KPH unit from LMT and can again track speed and mileage to maintain scheduled maintenance intervals). Image available at https://ibb.co/7yKrMcp