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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/11/2020 in all areas

  1. Had success reaching the fowardest most driveshaft zerk with a 1/8" 45 degree coupler. Rear wheel on.
    4 points
  2. Later bikes have an eccentric adjuster instead of the roll pin. Cant really see it makes any difference to shift action unless you have the adjustment wrong. Early recall transmissions needed upgraded selector sleeves and belville washers on the output shaft damper. Acquiring the parts may be an issue these days if it hasn't been done and the entire trans need to be disassembled. Ciao
    3 points
  3. With a little help from MartyNZ I have solved my gear box problem. The cause was a peg that had fallen out of the gearbox selection panel. When I took the panel off I found the peg in the bottom of the gearbox. It had fallen out of the hole that's indented it the middle the panel. Thankfully it had not caused any damage to the gears. After we had checked there was nothing else wrong with the panel we hammered the peg back into the panel after coating it with medium Loctite. I see later model V11’s have a nut & bolt to replace the peg. I presume that someone else had this problem. Anyway bike changes gear fine now. I checked the frame number and its within the range that its it eligible for the transmission upgrade. I need to follow up on this.
    3 points
  4. There must be a + and - terminal on the Quat D, as they seem to be very polarizing.
    2 points
  5. Replaced the old & tired alternator guard with a flashy CFRE one. Old New Downside: now the oil cooler guard is ugly...
    2 points
  6. FWIW, the Cafe Sport tank is 20mm longer and thats from the front of the tank cap to the back of the frame cutout in the tank. The frames look identical, same mount at the back of the gearbox.
    1 point
  7. Our ISP is (almost) tits up right now, so I can't show pix. Saw Footgoose briefly, an airhead beemer couple from southern Indiana, and John & Karla Barnes with step son Todd. (Kentucky rally movers and shakers.) Stayed in the downtown Art deco Hilton, and rode the trolley right to the brewery. The beer was good..
    1 point
  8. Lucky it didnt break when you were riding. Imagine fuel pumping out at 3 bar all over a hot engine. Ciao
    1 point
  9. Like Marty said, or I bought a pump from Quantum fuel systems, same price, and working well. Time for another Chang beer. cheers tom.
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. How about that. Lovely photo though... I just sent the guy a text and asked to remove my picture from his ads.
    1 point
  12. Hi, on 2nd thought your comment deserves a more detailed reply. The name cold start is not well chosen. Start-up fits better. The reason why the start-up function is needed and why it's temperature and to a lesser degree revs since start dependent is the following. After pressing the starter button the injectors begin injecting fuel, the nozzle and the fuel jet are pointing towards the opposite side of the intake pipe . At that time there's almost no air flow and a very low air speed moving through the intake, hence the first fuel shots are creating a fuel puddle on the opposite surface of the intake tract. A surplus of fuel, which is caused by the trim values, during that period ensures that enough fuel gets into the combustion chamber to achieve a ignitable mixture. This effect is engine and air speed dependent, so a temporary enrichment for some revs is needed at any engine temperature. Once the engine is turning over at a higher speed, the resulting higher air speed moves more of the injected fuel into the combustion chamber. And the increasing temperature of the engine increases the evaporation of the fuel, again resulting in more fuel getting into the combustion chamber. My current conclusion, based on the measurements, is that the critical values in the start-up table are those used during the first 10-50 revs. Once the engine is running on its own the start-up table values can be replaced by fuel engine temp trim table. Cheers Meinolf
    1 point
  13. Quite! The Quat D always looked like some sort of tween-wars biscuit tin with a couple of holes punched in it! I could never work out how it was supposed to work either!? As for pipe wrap? Just don't get me started.......
    1 point
  14. Hello, I am a lucky man : I found the original Moto Guzzi luggage for V11, in mint condition (never used for 20 years). I mounted it on the bike...and I am very happy with the result ! I
    1 point
  15. You sure are making a career out of a plug change:) One point, if you read the NGK literature you will find that the plugs come with anti seize plating and they recommend NOT using anti seize grease. Ciao
    1 point
  16. If you are really serious , get a spark plug gapping tool from SnapOn or the likes. They look like pliers and will properly gap and square up the center and ground electrodes. Just don't squeeze too hard or you will push the center electrode down into the porcelain.
    1 point
  17. The stacks are from PJMotorsports@frontier.com item# pjm-vs4 $29.95 each (they need to be lacquered or anodized but are a perfect fit) The filters are K&N RA-050V (these offer maximum size with clearance all around.) They are fit together by flattening the rolled edge of the velocity stack (mostly for looks) and drilling many 1/16 holes on the flat of the filter to create a mechanical bond for epoxy. They are simple slip fit as I chose to leave the filter neck on to have more bonding area and wanted an easy and positive fit. I know that there will be folks who will rightly poo-poo the underutilization of the flow of stack, to them I say "meh".(the inside diameter of the pod neck is still larger than the i.d. of the stack) The sender is from S and S Classics and is a V-Three unit that has 3 wires 8 pulses and work with almost every electric speedo including VDO. It needed a thread bushing adaptor I had to make ( I couldn't find it anywhere) 7/8-mpt to M16-1.0 to mate to the Motoguzzi output. It also needed the drive key lengthened by 3mm which was done with a TIG and filed back to shape.
    1 point
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