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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2020 in all areas
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New oil cooler arrived today along with the inserts for the swingarm hugger mounts. All mine were toast in one way or another.The cooler is just part of the spares stock as it was so cheap. The inserts are horrid bloody things and are something like $5 ea from Guzzi. Picked them up for $1AU each eventually. If anyone is interested I can let people know what they are as they are an odd design. You cant just replace them with a regular nutsert as instead of the std 7mm hole for a 5mm bolt the Guzzi item uses a 10mm hole so you need the original style. The wiring is coming along and may even finish up neater than the original. Its all basically in place I just haven't tie wrapped in position yet. Also working on the new oil cooler lines and getting the routing looking clean and nice. My titanium rod showed up a few days ago so I can finish off the tank mounts. The engine is in place and bolted up now as well. Ciao4 points
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https://www.ozarkratraid.com/ Just a reminder for the annual Rally in Ozarks. It's back at Marble Falls Resort (remodel of the former Hub Motorcycle Resort), on curvy Hwy 7 between Jasper and Harrison Ark.Probably the best riding roads in the US2 points
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2 points
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Zero mile Greenie, $44??? OK, it's 1/12 scale, but still tempting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-V11-SPORT-NEWRAY-DIE-CAST-1-12-NEW-IN-BOX-VERDE-LEGNANO/283777269881?hash=item4212718079:g:FEwAAOSwJFVeQGVg2 points
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2 points
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I would get a GOOD tubing bender and see what I could do .2 points
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2 points
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Recent decent weather allowed me to take the V11 out to check whether my recent replacement of the speedo cable brought the speedometer back to life. At startup it seemed to be idling slightly high, and a subsequent brief ride confirmed the throttle wasn't closing completely (throttle off RPM's on the order of 3K). The speedo cable's metal strain relief is contributing the cable's interference with the connecting rod. The throttle cable has plenty of slack in the "off" condition, and when high I can manually close the linkage (below the TPS) to lower the RPM's (surprised at how little movement was involved). I'm not prepared to go the Speedhut route yet, and I can only think of two solutions: 1. Remove part/all of the metal strain relief or 2. Use the old cable with new innards. Any other ideas would be welcome!1 point
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With the bike level I run the sight glass in the middle. My rational with sight glasses is to have a reading where they are NOT showing completely covered so you know its not over filled and also so if you have a leak you can see visually how much it has dropped. With a full sight glass you never know how much over fill there actually is. Also just about every engine/transmission I've ever owned has been better served by being slightly lower than full. Ciao1 point
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Yes, Portland dealer is toast. Rick is retiring. We still have several very active online sources for parts so the Guzzi community is fine for now. Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier, next time I'll have @docc notify me with an @swooshdave.1 point
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You run the risk of the charging system not being compatible with the Li-Iron or Li-Ion batteries and not charging them correctly. I got the Odyssey from AutoZone, and they were the cheapest by far.1 point
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3 bar rated reg. Gates barricade 5/16 fuel hose is the gold standard. Ciao1 point
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Use Fuel Injection rated fuel hose and you're the man. The regulator gives about 3-3.5bar, so aim a little above that.1 point
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1 point
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Heh, so early V11 had the angle drives (way sketchy), and the later V11 had the bent tubes (still sketchy). I've rebuilt too many angle drives to count. Lots of us have bent those tubes away from the throttle rod. Yep, if it is not done expertly, the cable will break there (might-could break there anyway) . . . Thanks for posting the excellent image of that V11 fail point! Worth addressing . . . anything fouling the throttle is decidedly ungood.1 point
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I hope it is okay I added that image to Tinus89's last post. That is an excellent result!1 point
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1 point
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Lightly oiled or a smear or grease. Support with a piece of wood directly under the seal boss on the opposite side and tap in with a socket of the appropriate size until bottomed. A press would be better but when needs must. Ciao1 point
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1 point
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Stylish mufflers, should have made them longer though bro. What every Italian motorcycle needs desperately...Fishtails:) Ciao1 point
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You need the angle drive unit for the gearbox. Mine clears by miles. Ciao1 point
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1 point
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Mine was blowing the main 30A fuse if you held the start button in. I then tried bypassing the wiring with a jumper direct to the solenoid but still no joy. Then with it off checked the solenoid and the motor separately. Motor was fine but solenoid u/s but got hot and the plunger was sticky. This was a Chinese replacement from about 8 yrs ago. Looks to me like the solenoid dries out and sticks when stood for a while and then eventually cooks the coil in the solenoid. so off to Amazon for a $74 replacement. Cheaper than going to a starter rebuild guy.1 point
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Yes, worked it off with a small screw driver. Worked remarkably well. As the spacer behind the original cover is plastic as well, I and the new cover is CF, I think applying low torque (say 5-10Nm) and using Loctite should be sufficient. I'm not going to put inserts in there, not worth the risk.1 point
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The next service interval i will check the pin, if its moved I will order a new pin or do a modification.1 point
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All V11 Sports and Lemans are beautiful, even the ones sold new in primer. Greenies are the prettiest, no doubt fastest. This Rosso is a pretty bike with lots of stuff with it, even though it's no Greenie.1 point