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here's the 'door stop' from the Tenni. The alm flywheel is all alm with one two sided clutch plate a 'disc' spring (last) and a pressure plate. you'll see the actuating rod cup in the middle

Hi Bob - yes we have. Looks like I've found a very nice low-mileage black Le Mans in Wisconsin, and I have a verbal agreement with the seller. So I'm all set from my end. Thanks.

you better believe it

Hi, I don't want to niggle, but make sure no wrong conclusions are drawn from above. Using different valve play values should be done only if all relevant factors are known. Simply increasing valve play to garner the benefits of better VE without having a measured the camshaft and valve lift would be a dangerous game. Skipping the ramp up portion entirely is comparable to hammering the valve and all involved components instead of having them smoothly brought up to speed. And, as the total valve lift will happen during a shorter time, the acceleration would increase. Which might lead to valves simply being torn apart or overshooting because the springs can't cope with the increased inertial moment. Just sayin` Meinolf

One of the reasons Pete says that V11s don't crash well is the front engine mount is on what I would call the accessory case on an aircraft engine. It's not uncommon to find it cracked, and the tubing tweaked. I would give that area a hard look.

Hi, Yes, that's what it boils down to. Well, you don't need special vernier sprockets. Re-boring the index hole in the sprocket with the desired offset is the way I do it. I don't understand the question. What do you mean by effective valve clearence? Cheers Meinolf

If you set your valves to the wider setting and do not make any changes to the valve timing I understand the valves will open later and close earlier. With our V11s we cannot fine tune valve timing without buying special vernier sprockets. Does the difference between standard and wide valve clearances make much difference to effective valve clearance? Also get your point about the larger setting misses the quieting ramp on the cam.

Difficult call there. If you can get it cheaply enough, there are stripped spine frames for sale, but that would be another mess. Best thing is that you are OK.

I think you will need to set it for i pulse per 2 revolutions, I assume you will be picking up the signal from just one coil.The last setting. If you are taking pulses from the ECU its anyones guess. BTW I think a common speedo cabe ratio is 1000 turns per mile

yes Docc, one piece flywheel, All alm. and everything else iron and steel. If you could get a magnet past the other layers and fully engaged on the alm. ??

Pretty sure I bought it at a show - I think it was a part of a kit for an adventure bike. In my defense it was a few years ago now

Thank you for your clear explanation. I see now by having the valve follower making contact further up the cam it will 'snap' open quicker. The small difference in total valve opening is unimportant.

Bit confused by this, surely if you opened up the valve clearance to a ridiculous amount the valves would hardly open and so there would be little gas flow. In the same way if you tightened the clearance to almost zero the valves would open further and pass more gas. So how can "decreasing the play would reduce the airflow" make sense?

Tenni low sided into a bank. Ain't going to be a Tenni no more. Sorry no pics. I noted sheared steering stop lead to sheared front brake line 6'' below reservoir. Rear rack is bent up and across along with exhaust taken a shove inboard about 3/4". No case damage that I saw. What chance the frame isn't bent? How do you tell? It's not test rideable, no gearshift and clutch switch messed up. Insurance want far too much for the wreck, but they would not deregister it. It flipped up and touched up the other side as well. If fixed up pretty enough it just has to get wof and onwards. Might be worth a negotiation to put it back on road but not if it's bent!

Some memories are better off not remembered