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I am lol. Picking it up later this week.

^^^^^^^^^^ great suspension. Now I am starting to understand what you Ohlins guys like.

My attention was drawn in that image to the wall art of "Prince" from the movie Purple Rain. Anyone that thought he was stylish or cool had their bubble burst when he appeared riding that atrocious abomination of a motorcycle. All the cool and style instantly evaporated, like gasoline spilled on a hot engine and he is revealed for what he was, a scrawny, weird little dude in high heals. If you want to know how cool someone really is ask them what sort of motorcycle they own or aspire to own. PS great song writer though. Ciao

My father, and his brothers, were carpenters by trade. They made their livings other ways, but their trade was always evident. Holding and handling their tools, now, is a special feeling. I remember my dear friend, "Goofman," saying, "To know a tool, and to use it well, in the service of others, perhaps that is enough." That we can share our efforts and interests, in these times, is extraordinary. Dear thanks to Jaap for these forums and LuckyPhil for this awesome thread!

A little off topic from "that" suspension.. but Guzzi Bob (RIP) and I were leading the pack on a less than perfect central California road when he motioned for me to pass. At the next rest stop, he said.. "I was going as fast as I wanted, but you were pushing me for the first time." I said, "let's face it, Ohlins wins out over your 1000S suspension on a rough road. It has nothing to do with who is the best rider." It's true. That's the difference, really.

That is the right order. If your springs are too soft, you will have to crank in the preload to get the sag right with the rider on board. This excessive preload will cause the free sag, how much it sags under just the weight of the bike, to be too little. Where as if the springs are too stiff you will have a minimum of preload resulting in too much free sag under just the weight of the bike. It can seem backwards, but it is right. It is all based on you adding the required amount of preload to get the race sag, the amount of sag with the rider on the bike, correct to start with. The amount of preload required will affect the free sag, and thus show you if your springs are too soft, too stiff, or just right.

As mentioned, I have used them, only not on a V11 so I don't know about fit. I think the K&N oil filter is a quality oil filter. But the "nut" is just a stamped piece of steel that is spot welded to the rest of the filter body. I had issues with the filter body rusting at those spot welds and around the "nut". One filter rusted through and started leaking when the motor was running. That was when I stopped using them. If you want to try one, give it a go and post up the results. It is not quite yet riding season around here. At least not for me, too cold still. A younger me would ride in 50 degree weather. But not the current me.

I am reminded of the adage, it's not what you ride, it's that you ride. I think Prince was about 5'2" .... I think he could be proud of riding a little Honda

Safe way for three to be together in a close space . . .

I followed up until here, "If free sag is too much that means your springs are too stiff, where as too little free sag means your springs are too soft. " That seems reversed to me. (No doubt, getting the Sport's suspension set-up improved has been the single greatest thing ever for my V11.)

I would avoid Fram. I *think* the Walmart brand that fits is ok.. forgot the number, and who makes it. Guzzi delivered new bikes with the Bosch 3330 at one time.. I've used them for years. I would also avoid the UFI.. there have been many issues with it.

Do not use a cheap oil filter PERIOD . Use a first line filter . Most stores have a first line and a second line filter . NEVER buy a WalMart or anything like this . FRAM . NEVER . Wix , AC Delco , Motorcraft , Hastings , Baldwin , etc. , these are good quality filters . Purolator . The first oil filter in production , I assume they are good .

I have not tried the K&N filter, but being too tall would be my main concern. There are so many good quality filters out there I don't know why you would pick K&N. FYI, I have had issues with K&N oil filters rusting away, even to the point that the filter housing leaked. The rust was centered around the fake nut that is welded to the end of the housing. I reported the issue to K&N, including pictures. They sent me a new filter to replace the bad filter (nice of them). But my main concern was the issue with the filter design. While I have no issues with the company as a whole, I am not likely to use their oil filters again. But to be fair, since the V11 oil filter lives inside the sump and would be covered in oil both inside and out it is likely that it isn't going to have rust issues when used on a V11. But the big question would be whether or not the filter fits under the manhole cover on the bottom of the sump. I tend to use either NAPA Gold or WIX filters.They are fine for a V11. Other brands out there are also fine.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mwgwn5TPZ7a8QfXu5

From the interwebz: Exhaust manifold temperatures vary for different vehicles and operating conditions Manifolds and/or exhaust pipes on some vehicles can reach 1200 degrees F. It is rare to find temperatures this high in normal operation. The hottest locations tend to be those for which there is some constriction or impingement of exhaust gas. For example, a bend in an exhaust manifold tube immediately outside the cylinder will have a surface upon which the exhaust gas has a greater capacity to transfer heat. Exhaust system temperatures will be reduced at any point of contact with cooler components of large thermal mass, such as the cylinder head.

I see the Coppa owners getting nervous.

The Sport has not been out for six weeks. Just 32 miles and a tank of fresh fuel, but she ran like a Labrador Retriever on his way from the truck to the boat . . .